Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

It seems to be an accepted norm that one can never have too many bicycles (n+1). That said, I haven’t seen a similar argument presented when it comes to tandems! We have an Orbit Velocity tandem which was converted to e-assist several years ago with the installation of a Woosh 48 Volt DWG22C...

Hi, I have a Pendleton Somerby e bike bought second hand. The other day there was sudden loss of power then the fault disappeared for a day. It has now come back, power is in surges and stops all together after about 4 mph. Halfords have confirmed the crank sensor is still working but can't say...

All my chains are the cheapest you can buy from Ebay. They usually last 5 years with just EP90. No need for expensive nickel. I'm not sure about my crank-drive bikes, but I'll soon be back on hub-motor again, so I won't need to worry about it.

The problem with the brands that you mention is that you are locked into proprietry systems, a bit like apple. With Bosch even dealers are not capable of motor repairs and have to send the whole motor back to Bosch, leaving you without a bike for the duration. Have a look at Woosh bikes. These...

Hi I'm not new to ebikes having had four - two folders, two full size, two second-hand, two brand new. But now I'm newly retired I'm getting back into ebiking more seriously and think I need/want to replace my ten year old Oxygen e-Mate City, (battery not charging well and leaking front forks)...

Jumps are a bad idea if you want your bike to last! Landing with your weight on the pedals puts high stress through the crank area, which is where the sophisticated and potentially slightly delicate torque sensor lives in mid-drive bikes. Asking for trouble putting more punishment than necessary...

Hi all, I’m troubleshooting my Raleigh EVO electric bike, specifically the controller (motherboard). I’ve disconnected the components and need to test whether the controller is still functional, as I’m not getting power to the display. Here’s what I’ve done so far and what I need help with...

It depends whether a crank motor or hub-motor and the motor's winding speed (Kv). Ideally, you need a motor that maxes out at around 1.3 times your modal riding speed for a hub-motor, or 1.3 times your modal pedal speed for a crank-drive. The motor will become increasingly less efficient the...

Nothing unusual happened, I noticed it wasn't cutting in and out on a ride as usual, most of the time it was fine again if I sped up a teeny bit and I was thinking I might have had some dirt on the magnets or something and I'll sort it out when I got home, but then after a quick stop to have a...

Hello, there is a knocking noise coming from the bottom bracket of my Woosh Krieger. The Krieger has a Bewo mid-drive motor, also known as a TCM motor. I can't find any information on it online. It has gradually been getting worse. It only happens in the mid gears, 3, 4 and 5. The...

It depends on your motor's winding speed. Stick a magnet on it and use a cycle computer to show it's maximum rpm when you power it up unloaded, or I think there are some phone apps that can get the rpm optically, if you put a blob of Tipex on it. Ideally the motor should run at around 75% of max...

Hi, I've made a freewheel chainset. The question is what sprockets would work best? I have a 24T and a 34T which I have bolted onto the toothless freewheel. I made an adapter to screw it onto the crank which is a steel one from from a really cheapo chainset I had. I was wondering what the...

It makes no difference what type of motor or where the motor is. It's all down to how good the algorithms in the controller are. Your original ones are crappy, so you need a controller with better ones. The type of sensor doesn't make a massive difference, it's what the controller does with it...

Concerning Harrys last comment. I went back and checked and i was mistaken. I have three large pins. I claim old age and poor eye sight! It seems to me that torque sensing, if it functions lineally, would work best with a motor at the crank. I have a rear motor and so every time i change...

You can try it, but I'm pretty sure that locking compound won't hold it. The whole torque of the motor on that small diameter will be trying to unscrew it.

Hi , I see now that the crank has to freewheel, whereas you don't need a freewheel on the motor. I can just loctite the sprocket on the motor to its thread. If I use 638 it'll never come loose or i could use nut locking grade which would enable me to remove it. I have a fixie that will fit...

According to that photo, the motor is driving in the direction you want but won't drive a chain with a normal freewheel because it's freewheeling in the wrong direction, but you can fit a simple screw-on sprocket with an appropriate spacer; however, it would tend to unscrew whenever the motor...

I still can't understand what you're trying to do. A sketch or photo would help. When I made my DIY crank-drive bike, I needed drive from the other side of the motor, so I screwed a freewheel thread to the disc fixings, then I was able to screw on a normal freewheel. I made the adapter by...

The speed with the wheel off the ground depends on the motor constant (Kv). When the motor spins it becomes a generator. The voltage it generates is opposite to the battery voltage and is equal to RPM x Kv. When the motor reaches a certain RPM the net voltage is no longer enough to push the...