Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

I wouldn't have it work on the pedals for some of the reasons above. Though if I were building such a system, best way I could see would be through hall effect sensors and a magnet with it's pole flipped for specific pedal angles. Have that run to a microcontroller that sends a voltage to the...

Hi All, I have the following bike with an integrated controller and battery. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vitesse-Signal-Lightweight-Electric-VIT0011/dp/B09WJ9MT68 My display recently stopped working so I ordered another one (exactly the same KT series that I previously had, see photo) so it would...

Thanks for the responses everyone. My main concern was that 250W wasn't going to be enough without some extreme gearing, but it sounds like it won't be a problem (for a mid-drive or a hub motor), so that's good. The "48% gradient" is just the maximum gradient of that route from bike-roll.net...

I hate to have to say this, but just about everything above is wrong. Let's take the bike first. It would be towards the bottom of my list for a crank-drive conversion. 1. It has rim brakes, which are never good for an ebike unless you're very light. 75 kg is about on the limit, but those...

I was the same until recently in that the crank bolts on my TSDZ2 required 40nm to be tight enough to stop them loosening and my guessing as to 'tight enough' was in fact quite a bit lower than that required. And I'm using a front hub motor on carbon forks and I needed to ensure 30nm tightness...

Hub-motors can give a lot more power than a crank-drive. Look at the size of the actual motor (coils, magnets, rotor and stator). They're about two or three times the size of those on a crank-motor. The normal sized ones can handle 1000w from the battery easily. My one is the same size as a Lime...

The photo you posted shows a front hub-motor. I've never seen one with a crank-motor. Some have a rear motor, but they're not very common.

Post a photo of your LCD control panel and tell us what markings are on the back. Also, does yours have the hub-motor or crank-motor?

Yep, as @saneagle mentioned, the display showing the motor getting 500 watts (or more) is perfectly normal for a legal e-bike - it's the manufacturer's motor continuous rated power that counts. Again most legal e-bikes have settings that limit the maximum speed to 25 km/h, as long as this is...

You can use as much power as you want with a 250w motor, but if you have a motor that's rated at more than 250w, it's illegal no matter how much power you restrict it to. To see if you're legal, look at the motor and see what's written on it. If it says 250w, you're home and dry. Anything else...

I have set up a kit to be street legal in the UK with appropriate settings in the controller but is it legal? When I started the display showed the motor getting nearly 500 watts. The control panel died after 10-20 minutes use but would reset by switching the battery off and on. Fortunately...

It's 14S.

The battery on that video is 4S2P 302WH - with a motor driving the rear wheel directly? I can't see it compete with a normal £300 crank drive motor even if money is no object.

Thanks for explaining the wiring, anyway there is no extra 3 wires. By the 3 wires beside the terminal connector was meaning 3 thick phase power wires. I just double checked the controller/motor wiring and there is 5 wires (black, blue, yellow, red and green) on terminal and 3 phase wires, so...

any thinner data wires Not the 2 x thicker gauge power wires from a battery to a controller would indicate a requirement for a battery /controller handshake similar to but infinitely more problematic than any display issues. Motors generally have 9x connections 3 x thicker phase power wires(...

The bike is a fairly standard hybrid bike with 26" wheels and an 8 gear cassette. I made a mistake in the thread title it's a cargo trailer not a proper cargo bike with small wheels. Before I attach the motor I'm going to test the trailer fully loaded with new brake pads. If I'm not happy in...

Yes to both, ( unless your bike has a perculiar BB and crank) BUT...... fwiw i upgraded my 7speed rear cassette to 8 speed when converting my bike, not a lot of hassle at the wheel end but the replacement 8 speed gear changer is a LOT stiffer than the original 7 speed, and i dont use the...

The typical cheap hub-motors last virtually forever. IIRC, they test them to 30,000 km at Bafang. Like many crank-motors, they can fail early due to abuse and/or external circumstances. I like to test things, so I do change my bikes and motors regularly. My Q128 has done about 6,000 miles. I did...

Well, I'm all for cycling and getting good exercise, but there is much to say in favour of electrification of the sort most of us here enjoy, as an assistance for older people, or for the younger person who wants to commute ten miles to work, but doesn't want to arrive in a sweat, and then have...

What would be handy to know is mileage life expectancy on various bikes. For example, your 20-30,000 miles on hub motor bikes: how many miles on a single bike is more useful to know. I remember reading, and memory might be flawed, of a requirement to replace hub motor bearings after each...