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Thanks, so to have the display more toward the middle it would be the 961 for me, but do they come with mountings to put it at the center where the handlebar stem would be in the way?

Anyone know the difference between the Bafang C961 and C963 LCD displays which control the BBS01 ? I've asked BMSB but all they replied was one is cheaper than the other.

For removing seized parts after leaving penetrating oil on for a while is to not yank the pressure on but put the pressure on slowly and on as much as you can and hold it there as long as you can, generally the seize kind of cracks/gives.

I would just clean the cassette spline with some wirewool and wd40 and maybe lube the bearings etc too. I think I would get/use a cassette with the same number of speeds as the original freewheel had.

Personally I would still use the calculated spoke lengths. I recon you have 14g spokes, my No15 key slot also fits my new 14g nipples, the reason is the sizes are so close and the key slots have about 0.1mm clearance on top so there is a slight overlap but a tighter fit is better so maybe use...

If you don't have the tool maybe take your wheel to a local bike shop they will have it changed in minutes. Saves you buying the tool.

I normally clean my chain before lube with a chain scrubber like this one. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-chain-scrubber-cm5-2/rp-prod8207 filled with http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/weldtite-citrus-degreaser-chain-cleaner/rp-prod5952 I also had the problem of a new chain...

I do the cadence style braking when it's wet and find it very effective for a quick slow down also when I get disc squeal I find it helps get rid of the squeal for a while.

You can reshape the beam on the single cree light with one of these, don't know whether it would work on the 4 cree light. I use one on a single cree in the hope it prevents me from dazzling oncoming drivers...

I too had the problem of wasting time looking for the correct spoke key slot every time so I got one of these which is much more comfortable to use too...

Jerry, you sound a bit more experienced at wheel building than me so one question on my mind when struggling with my last wheel is would you get the wheel/rim true first with the spoke tension still quite loose, in fact I was thinking as loose as possibly can hold the trueness/dish and then...

Not related but just out of interest, how many amps is your ku65 set to? or is it as standard.

How about brake squeal, do you get any noise from the clarks exo? The noise from my original tektro's was partly the reason I upgraded to the quieter BB7's

I dont have that motor but I do have that problem with rubbish chain line due to a modification I made to my bike. Can you give me some info on this chain keeper method, it might help me.

You've gone and got me interested in trying these hydraulic brakes at that price even though I am happy with some cable avid BB7's I fitted a few months ago. Will they fit straight onto the same mount as an easy change ?

About the same as you Rob, within about 2 or 3mm. 2mm allowed on a motorcycle MOT, that's interesting to know for my future wheel builds afterall I'm not going quite as fast as those.

I have started using that 'pinging the spokes' sound idea to check the wheel every couple of weeks or so and so far my latest wheel appears to be doing ok

I also find the trueing stage to be quite theraputic but the patients of a saint are needed. I usually spend an hour or so at a time spread over a few days before I get tired of chasing that tiny buckle and make do with it. Your trueing stand will help for sure, my first wheel was built with a...

I am new to building wheels and I believe it was caused by uneven spoke tension.

Don't know what to add after EddiePJ's cleaning routine, I don't get anywhere near as muddy as him but what I would say is not to use a power washer, especially around electrical or bearing areas and not to apply wd40 to chain (also bearings) as I believe that washed out my factory lubricant and...