Search results

As all Wing appear to sell on that website seems to be illegal e-bikes/mopeds, what seems to me to be true madness is this encouragement to already disqualified drivers to instead buy and ride one of their illegal over-powered e-bikes... or rather their mopeds... without the required licence and...

The Yose Clone battery I linked is described as "Rear Battery for Stella Bike". If you check the images for the original Phylion/Joycube battery I linked in post #22, you'll find this: I'd be pretty sure the Yose clone version will fit/work. The Yose clone even claims a Smart BMS (as an...

LiFePO4 is certainly making a storming inroad as THE battery chemistry of choice for leisure batteries now. A little heavier than Li-Ion they may be, but they're significantly lighter than the conventional alternative of Lead Acid, give a much greater usable capacity in a like-for-like package...

I'm just wondering if this clone from Yose would fit? The connection block and case profile looks about right to me. 36v/13Ah, £177 inc. charger here.

I agree with the comments already made above about your battery likely being old/worn/no longer being able to produce the current needed. As for the low/high LED's flashing (790), IMO it's a different problem and sounds similar to this post here where it's a brake sensor fault.

I think there's a lot to like about that bike, but the lack of gears would kill it as a viable proposition for me on my commute. I couldn't survive on my 20" folder without gears, and even then, I sometimes wish I had an ever wider range than I do. As flecc says, I too think you'd be spinning...

Looks to me like excessive speed given the prevailing conditions/surroundings. If you're going to ride like an a55hole, be sure you've got the competence and equipment needed to control your vehicle. If you've a crap bike with crap brakes (and clearly a crap brain), ride at an appropriate speed...

It's good that you came back to the forum to explain what the problem turned out to be, and how you managed to resolve your issue. It's often quite annoying when (usually new) members post problems and other members here take their time to help with advice and suggestions, and then you never...

Why don't you use something like this: You preset the end voltage you want, and the charger is turned off when the battery gets there. You could set say 41v as a safe upper limit to terminate the charge where you could top it off a little bit more before you ride if you wanted, or say set to...

I am one of those "economically inactive", retiring first at 42. Got bored, started yet another company, and retired again at 52... and nothing would get me back to work now at 62. A whole bunch of us 60's Baby Boomers (inc. me and several friends/colleagues) had a comparatively easy ride...

I'm surprised this thread hasn't gained any traction. I would have thought the many Bosch owners here would at least be commenting if not buying... at these prices, adding in shipping, VAT and taxes it still seems a reasonable minimal risk proposition given the shortage of supply and high...

With all that space, could you not consider a 20" wheeled folder instead? That opens your choices considerably. Even a Fiido D4s with its 20" wheels gives a better ride, has a larger battery, weighs less, goes faster (unlocked to 34/35 kph) and only costs a little more than a D2s at about 750 euro?

I could be wrong here, but I'm sure I saw a YT video showing an unlocked D2 doing 30kph? The unlocked D4 achieves 34ish kph. My D11 unlocked is 29kph. Note here though - with all small wheeled e-bikes - the motor is wound as standard to spin at a much faster RPM than motors in say a 26" or 700c...

I'm surprised the D2s weighs 19.5 kg when the 20" wheel D4s is lighter - and the D11 at 17.5kg is lighter still (which I bought for my own "last mile" commuting/trains). The ADO16+ says 21kg. Eeek! When I looked at ADO (20) before buying my own Fiido, the ADO speed/controller set-up was really...

The Fiido D2s has been around a long time, seems reliable, spare parts plentiful. 35Nm @ 13A is the same as the 20" wheeled Fiido D11, which performs well enough on shorter hills - 10% is I think the steepest I've ridden. In a smaller 16" wheel it should be better still.

Here's the real-time Bosch battery capacity tester video @soundwave originally posted some time ago: What makes this different from BMS cycle counting is that it's testing the actual battery capacity in real-time through a charge/discharge cycle. The OP's issue at 9 years old is AGE, not cycles.

Certainly on Bosch batteries, from what I've seen, the normal dealer software shows charge/discharge cycle count as recorded by the BMS: Bosch use a separate battery tester to determine actual capacity, which takes several hours by cycling the battery in real time. None of the on-board...

On Phylion batteries, that test simply shows a representative percentage of how many charge cycles the battery has undergone based on an ideological figure (500/800 cycles to 80% capacity retention): It isn't a measured calculation or true representation of how much capacity the cells actually...

You can connect a dummy load via a wattmeter which, from a fully charged battery, will tell you exactly what capacity remains relative to new - a simple DIY project which other threads here cover. If that's beyond your capability, many dealers can do that for you (at a cost). Ultimately, it's...

A new 36v battery should charge to between 41.5 and 42v when properly/fully charged. Some BMS's shut down/sleep the battery when full... if that happens, just a small spurious surface voltage is sometimes measurable. If asleep, the common way to wake it up is to hold the power button down for...