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While you wait for the controller, it would be a good idea to open up the motor to see what the extra wires are for. There are a lot of possibilities starting with a torque sensor.

A set of KT stuff can be had for £60 from China. A Brainpower or similar can be had for about £35. The KT feels much better when riding the bike. It also makes the motor quieter as long as you get the Sinewave one, not the square wave. The Brainpower one is a bit agricultural with crappy power...

You need to repair those spokes very soon or your whole wheel can collapse. On any bike, if one spoke goes, it's nothing to worry about. If two go, it indicates a problem and if three go, there's no point in replacing them. Instead, you should get thw whole wheel rebuilt because the others will...

Those dimensions look right as far as I can measure with a 12" ruler.

I'd be surprised if any bike specialist knows how to do it or would want to. By the looks of it, you remove the forks, remove the plate on the front of the steeering head and pull the battery out through the hole.

Often, it's press and hold the two buttons to save the settings. That's how a KT controller works, anyway, which is a massive advantage for those that don't care about laws because if you set the speed limit, but don't save it, It'll keep the setting until you switch off, then revert to the...

Solder them together. You'll probably never need to disconnect them again, and if you do, you can cut them. All that is a lot less work than ordering connectors and soldering both sides, and it'll give a much more reliable solution, and it's cheaper. Win, win, win.

That's the original Suntour HESC system AFAICS. I've never seen a throttle on one before. There's no connection for one. I'd be interested to know how it's been done. The controller needs two signals to give power. The torque sensor arrangement gives a pulsing pedal rotation signal and a 0-5v...

Does the bike have an LCD? If it does, please show a photo. I'm pretty sure that the Vengeance E never had a throttle. Is your a normal vengeance with a kit added? Please show some photos of what's on the handlebars, the area around the bottom bracket where the sensor is and the motor.

I'll check later, but you know you need extra clearance to fit the battery to the holder? You need about 20mm above and at the front, plus the height of the battery at the bottom end interferes with the seat tube, so the whole battery is prevented from going too low on the downtube.. it's best...

It was lucky that the time traveller went back with his camera just in time to to snap a few pics of the fire of London before he went back to the future to show us.

I agree that it's likely that you're limited by the motor's winding speed. That's why I asked you how fast it went before. You can't change a motor's speed by changing the controller, except some rare cases, where the controller can adjust the timing to get a speed boost.

It won't do any damage if you get it wrong. On some controller one of the wires can go to the ground and others to the 5v. One wire always goes to the signal. You have to try to find whichever way works starting with the ground. Actually, you can tell by measuring the voltage on the signal wire...

Those two are both 20Ah. One has 18650s and the other 21700s. I can't see much difference in performance, but I only ride with lowish power. I've no idea how many charges because I have 4 batteries on three bikes and I keep swapping them around. The first one I got from Greenlance was used the...

I thought you knew that. The controller and LCD have to match UART or CAN. the motor only has phase and hall wires connected. The PAS is standard 3 wires. I, m not sure if CAN controllers need a CAN battery. Does anybody know?

How do you know that the motor should go 50? Did it do that before? If it did, there are three possibilities I can think of: 1. The LCD is showing the wrong speed because you have the wrong settings 2. There's a speed limit set 3. You have a false positive on the connection sequence. That would...

If you live anywhere near Telford, I can test it for you.

Those direct drive motors are normally run at between 25A and 40A, which is a lot more than what you see on legal bikes. They cruise at around 30 mph, which means they typically have 4 times as much energy than a legal one. The higher current can push the battery to its limit, which might be a...

I didn't open mine. I have two and they've been working fine for a year already.

If they were precicely proportional, the bike would stop between pedal strokes on a steep hill and you'd get a power surge every time you pressed the pedal. It would be terrible to ride. The old 24v Panasonic was like that.