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There's something wrong with your battery or your bike. Do the wheels spin freely when you lift them off the ground?

You need to show us some photos. hopefully, it's a standard catalogue item, like this: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Internal-hidden-tube-battery-36v-8ah_1600056780133.html

Heavy batteries need at least three fixings, and you might as well do 4 while you have your tools out. It's not difficult to add a couple more rivnuts. All you do is: Mark the centre of the two empty slots Remove the mounting plate Centre punch the two marks Drill the holes to suit the rivnuts...

CNN!! Definitely a terminal case!

My rule of thumb is that a not particularly fit 90kg rider on fairly hilly ride should get about 30 miles with medium assistnce. That's what I got with my first ebike, where the motor just went full power whenever you pedal. The fitness of the rider, weight of the rider and the steepness of the...

The type of motor - crank vs hub - has no bearing on that. How natural it feels depends on the control system for the motor. You get crap and good control systems for both, and some that feel natural and some that don't. The best control system is the one that gives the power you want with the...

You need to look at the back to see if you can get any numbers. It's not specific to any of the bikes above, otherwise it would be too expensive. It's a general catalogue item. That's the number you need.

Fake news. You can't even see it after you've been told. Your case is a really bad one. It looks like it's terminal.

The battery has the dreaded trapezium shaped connector on it, which is the one used by others on systems that have CANbus comms.

Does the error code come at a particular motor speed, is it there before the motor starts, or does it come as soon as the motor starts to turn?

The two extra pins are only needed by the old BMS. You can cut off those wires and throw them away when you get the new one.

Stop watching fake news. Trump didn't get given any jet. The gift was to the United States, the same as UK gets a Christmas tree from Norway every year. You don't call that a gift to Kier Starmer, do you?

I'd get the 20ah one. Not only is it guaranteed to do your journey, but it'll get an easier time doing it, so it'll last longer. Plus, you might want to use your bike to go a lot further.

That's a very unusual one. It has B0 and B10 doubled up for some reason. I've never seen one like that before. It should be no problem to use a BMS with 10 or 11 pins, but you have to remove the actual pins from the connector and reinsert them in one that matches the BMS. They normally give you...

Have a look to see if you can change P20. If you can, try whatever settings are there to see if any others work.

I wouldn't get any of them for a ride like that. Crank-motors are only necesserry for off-road stuff, towing or very steep long climbs and things like that. A geared hub-motor is just so much better for normal riding on the road, especially at around 20 mph. You need 48v and a 22A controller...

You need to make a special cable shown on the last page of the manual, and it depends which connectors you have on your devices. All it is is a 5-way cable with the green and yellow (Tx and Rx) swapped over from one end to the other and two wires spliced in to provide power (black and red)...

Don't do that stupid 80% charging. It doesn't work for ebike batteries. Don't take any notice of what all the stupid people say how well it works for them. You should always charge your battery to full if you can. The only time you should charge to anything else is to charge to 37v if you plan...

No need for dispair. If you get a standard £500 - £600 Amazon ebike, you'll be fine. You just need to avoid the ebikes with gimmicks, new technology, innovations and marketing hype. Ask if you need any help to choose one.

They work fine. They have to for £179. There are different ones that work in different ways. The ones I tried could be switched on and off with the light switch. Like that one, once fitted, they're completely hidden behind the motor cover.