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That's what I thought when I looked after you mentioned using a file, it seems to go on one or two threads and then stops dead and both screws go on the other side perfect... I do know that sometimes if the wire is not straight it causes miss alignment of the screw but not in this case, I have a...

I'l see if I can get some close up pics - I was thinking more along the lines of thread chasing with a die but either way, file or die I am out of my skill remit

Good thinking Anyway I am so happy you guys are enjoying the YOSE rear experience as am feeling a little like I am having a "rear" experience of a different kind!:oops: So as promised, and I was a happy bunny when my new rotor and case showed up after 4 days in the post from China so Kudos...

yep - just be aware of the throttle - always try to zero the PAS level when locking the bike up! Is it a bit better now?

That's what happens with the YOSE and Dill controllers - well tested today on mine anyway! It will be bumpy if your rear hub is not on suspension, I have fairly new front suspension and it does not ease it much - I was looking into a suspension seat post but they range from £20 - £100+ I...

I hate to say now lol - but I love it, this was like the first PAS I had with the Dillenger kit so I was already accustom to it.... Try to read the YOSE manual alongside the Dillenger manual that might help, If you get a bit confused with your settings record your current settings then do a...

P3 from the YOSE manual - you are maybe right in assuming it has got lost in translation Verbatim P3 is for power assist control mode, when P3 parameter setting is1, power assist control mode is gear 5 of "imitation torque control" mode, when P3 parameter setting is 0, power assist control...

Erm I'll look into p3 in more detail and get back to you - P4 needs to be 0 and C4 needs to be set at 4 for it to work with the displayed PAS level P4=0 C4=4

did you get a euro mains plug??? if so wilko's do a fare price adaptor

Just refitted my front hub as a temporary stop gap while I wait for the new rear motor to arrive from direct from YOSE... So I decided to fit the DNP freewheel and I have to say I am not overly impressed, so far the less teeth on the high gear is pretty good however there's an overall feeling of...

So kudos to YOSE they have agreed to send me the motor internals and the outer case, as I mentioned that the screws used in the motor side plate are of substandard metal.... I was surprised to see screws as the first motor was Allen bolts, so is the YOSE 250w.... Anyway quick question... If I...

I know right... try making a video of a problem you can barely hear due to motor noise and the dam wind - but hey I did it.. Should be a nice warm week head for your new build - I assume it's your first build... take your time to read the manual if they send you one in time, they emailed me the...

Yep thats what I was thinking - they mean the internal motor not including the outer case and wheel - I have replied to the email to confirm I can install a new internal motor, now it's in the lap of gods until they respond....

Posted video - emailed yose - An engineer thinks the "motor is defect" direct quote, however then they go on to say check the "rotor's installation", twice mentioning "rotor". I assume this is a typo... Would you guys agree with me or should I be checking for a "rotor" it seems like a daft...

When I disconnected the bullet julet connector one pin bent a little and I think it was a phase wire! Thanks for the assist - I will get back to you on all info from your first post. Controller standard 15amp +-1amp yose 250/350w.. Battery 2.5 years old x 2 samsung R or E but I couldn't say...

So I did a C10 reset to no avail - so I thought about the power connector I used, as I was so use to stealth controllers being wired direct to the battery, according to the connectors specs it's Ip68 and can handle 20 amp although the battery wires only just fit the controller wires fit perfect...

Yep solid idea gona go down that path today. I rigged a cam over the motor and went for a ride, the controller did not stall once but the vibration can be heard, then this morning coming through school run traffic I needed that extra boost, PAS 1, hit the throttle(limited to the speed of PAS 1)...

That would be where the default comes from, Is it just me then or would changing this to 100 really make much difference? changing C2 to anything bar 0 makes the controller pop n stop

If you have the correct freewheel removal tool, a spanner that'll fit it and a metal pole for leverage(or a long handle spanner) you'll be ok, plenty of vids on youtube for help! luckily I had a warm day and eventually got it off but now I have to do it again to fit my DNP, I went for the 13/28t...