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The cutting out is due to voltage sag and the lvc cutting in as it should do, it is possible you have a low cell group that is out of balance or just had it. If you are up for it you could open the pack and check for your self with multi meter. Being 6 years old it probably could do with a look...

Show us a pic of the wire break and position. But in general have to agree with Woosh,if there is enough cable length to play with. Replacing the motor cable isn't an easy job an not to take on likely, getting the hub open is your first issue. It will be easy or involve some cursing, once open...

Go direct to the makers website and use their contact not the shop you got it from. P setting are pretty much std for geared hubs. P1 87. P2 1. P3 Pas; 0 for speed control, 1 for current control. P4 Throttle; 0 always active, 1 pedal first activates throttle. P5 12 Voltage 36v 5- 15.

Lovely bike Wicky , Jimmy has a Panasonic hub drive adorning his office unit but has no battery for it. He likes to look at them and wasn't really keen on selling.

No issue here using pannier's on full sus mtb with BBS01, handling good and was no issue on twisty tight forest animal tracks. Horses for courses no good for down hill or fast rutty rough track riding but better then trying to tow a trailer off road. Heavier rear end means lifting is a no no...

o_O Contact them via the web site asking for the info !!! Other wise have you tried holding the + & -- buttons together for about 10 secs to see if it goes into the settings.

I connected lion's and lipo's in Parallel, they are usually within 0.5v of each other often I will ride the lion for a 2 or 3 miles before connecting up the lipo as I charge them to a lower value. Having a watt meter wired in line takes all the guess work out. If the voltage is far out 1-2v for...

I did have the small one somewhere but would have to dig it out, they are for sq taper B/B measure your existing to get the right length you need and they are LH only.

As I'm getting 8mm x 0.5 or 0.7 mm copper strips supplied gratis, I am also going the continuous route on the P connections. Softer copper will be fine to use for bus bars as the cell holders form a vey tight/ stiff module in a small 5p 7s or 10s lay out. Module for 5P 7S for the Swizzbee 50c ...

3 boxes arrived today :). I'm getting some copper strips cut for me so I can cut and punch some bus bars to replace the stainless ones. The guys on ES say 1 copper bus has less impedance then approx. 45 S/S ones,

Any decent battery of 15ah or more will allow you to do your 50km return journey with some to spare, the spare will be handy as they will eventually lose some capacity in years to come. For full suspension options there is one which I use but not cheap, have a look at the Thule pack n ride...

Going by the Fatmini website its a Kingmeter lcd.

Give us a bit more help !!! Is it a kit part or which bike brand ?

Fairly easy to solder your own up if you are able to solder a bit of heayt shrink on each joint and away you go. Just requires a bit of patience.

A spacer though don't know if you can get ones for sq taper. Wouldn't be hard to make one out of plastic and then put a sq hole in it.

Normal for one rider is different to another. 17/18mph isn't a problem for a regular fairly fit rider on a flatish terrain, give a bit more input and speed will be a bit higher.

My kits should be delivered tomorrow, I had to pay VAT + PF handling fee of £8 :(. My cells arrived today as promised by Nkon & DPD, very good service 4 days door to door. LG cells all at 3.56v and Panasonic's all at 3.53v.

I would say it needs tightening up, if it doesn't then you will have to put a shim in there to close the gap.

Use a hair dryer on hot setting or a hot air gun.

BPM kit will go up to 19.5mph a bit more if a strong peddler, Oxy kit up to 24.3pmh on my bike in top assist again you do need to peddle hard and fast to achieve this. Both if run at 48v will give approx. 25% more speed and improve torque, you would need to check controllers for 63 v capacitors.