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Thanks again. FWIW, I'm not sure what you're telling me here. For info, the C-washers are 19mm OD -- the same OD as an M10 form A or form B washer. So, I could elongate the hole of an M10 washer to 12mm long x 10mm across (same as the axle cross-section). However, that would introduce another...

A pair of C-washers arrived yesterday and I fitted the wheel. However, the flanged axle nuts still (slightly) foul the lawyer lips at the extreme end of the forks (the bit that's showing compression marks in the first piccy of my OP). Instinct says that I can file these down the 1/32" or so...

A quick reply for completeness. I've removed about 2.5mm from the inside of the non-drive-side crank and the PAS rotor now fits perfectly. Unfortunately, the front mech clamp prevents attachment of the sensor to the seat tube and there isn't enough space between the rotor and the down tube to...

Quick update for completeness. I've removed the spacers and disk retaining screws on both kits. Cyclotricity told me the screw holes were blind. However, I suspect that the design has changed since the tech guy I spoke with last looked because I could clearly see the rotating assembly through...

Many thanks. From the description on eBay, I guess that this is a common issue and these C washers are made specifically to address it. That's three out of three issues you've given a solution for -- again, many thanks. Geoff

Nothing seems straightforward with this conversion. I'm trying to convert a 1990s Giant Cypress SE using a Cyclotricity front wheel kit. I've already had to hack some metal off one of the cranks to get the PAS rotor to fit and remove the disk brake securing screws and spacer from the hub. I...

Benefits of converting: You only have one bike to store and maintain. The cost to achieve the same functionality tends to be lower. If you select individual components, you have much more flexibility to achieve a specification that best suits you. Benefits of buying a dedicated eBike...

Thanks. FWIW, removing the 3mm seemed a good option -- but he did seem to speak from experience. That said, I don't think he has much experience of eBikes and so hasn't had any call to perform such a mod. I haven't got a grinder -- but my trusty hacksaw and selection of files will be employed...

Thanks. I had considered cutting off the 3mm 'spigot' from the crank but the guy that runs my LBS tells me the crank is likely to move further onto the tapered square of the BB spindle, closing the gap to below 4mm, if I do :( He also tells me that. because it's a sealed BB, getting a longer one...

I'll come clean -- I'm a bear of little knowledge regarding eBikes. That said, I'm trying to convert a couple of old (i.e. dating from the 1990s) bikes using Cyclotricity kits. It hasn't been straightforward, so here are some of the 'gotchas' I've either encountered and/or might apply to your...

Thanks to help from this forum, I've manage to convert my wife's bike using a Cyclotricity front hub kit and I'm now trying to do the same with my old hybrid. However, I have one outstanding 'gotcha' to resolve:- the PAS rotor (see piccy) as supplied doesn't fit the bottom bracket spindle --...

Thanks. Also for the info that they're M5 without my needing to pull one to measure. I suppose that I could use grub screws and threadlock -- but I'd still be worried that one would become 'unlocked' and work its way into the motor. So I'd rather use platic blanking plugs -- the sort that's used...

Thanks for the reply. One of the bikes I want to convert has suspension forks, but the bike in the photo has rigids. Removing the screws and spacer would cure the issue with the bike in the photo and hopefully the other also. If it doesn't I'll probably have to replace the forks with rigid ones...

I've just taken delivery of a couple of Cyclotricity front wheel conversion kits. Unfortunately, at least one of these has a problem in that the screws intended to mount a brake disk or retain the supplied spacer foul the fork. I've waited most of the afternoon for one of their techs to return...

Hi Jack, Tony, Thanks for the range info. FWIW, the longest ride I envisage is about 20 miles in each direction. However, 20 miles round trip will be more usual - so I should be able to get away with one battery and some judicious economy measures on longer rides. At £400 a pop, that's good to...

Thanks again all. I've had a good look at the BMS Battery site and the choice of 250W front wheels with spoke patterns that reasonably match my rear wheel seem limited. All I can find is the SWXU V-Brake and the K5, so I'd probably be better off getting a kit. However, I want a rack-mounted...

I'm now confused - much of what I thought I understood has just gone out the window! I thought that the Ezee kit was 250W. Since power = volts * amps, the current drawn from a 36V battery at 250W (ignoring losses) should be 250/36, which is a tad under 7 amps. Why does the Ezee controller have...

Thanks again all. FWIW, I'm fairly good with DIY and so wouldn't anticipate anything insurmountable with the BMS Battery route. However, I wasn't expecting the difference that jackhandy describes. I appreciate the offer of a shopping-list check also, that's probably a good exercise even if I...

Thanks chaps, that's two recommendations that are poles apart price-wise. I reckon that the 250W BPM with battery, rack, controller, charger, and throttle works out to about £300 + shipping and taxes (but no pedelec sensor?). In contrast, the Ezee kit sells for about £800 and comes with...

My wife and I want to convert our existing bikes (we don't have storage for these and new pedelecs). My wife's bike is no problem - it's a hybridised MTB with 26" wheels, so the Alien Ocean road-legal kit will do the job fine. However, my bike is a different story as I have a hybrid with 700c...