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You can always disconnect brake sensors from the controller and try. Controller works just fine without them. Just look for the wires that come from the brakes. I don't remember the colors, but there should be 2 connectors. However, I would guess it's the same problem that I had caused by...

Nevermind, I joined the wires the way I wrote in the previous post and the throttle works fine. Also joined the wires for the brakes sensors and they also started working. I am getting a few km/h more with this new controller then before (28-29 km/h GPS) and also some nice features like an...

So, I’ve got the new controller. And it seems to be alive! At least on PAS. Not so straight forward with the throttle connector. This is the setup: If I understand this correctly, to use the throttle I need to connect red-blue-black wires from the throttle to red-white-black wires from the...

Yes, but very similar trick worked to get the limit back. Just used other brake and keep throttle pressed.

I have seen a lot of reviews where people reported that the speed magically increased for this Samebike. Check for example reviews on this Gearbest listing: https://www.gearbest.com/electric-bikes/pp_009273919376.html?wid=1433363 I found a way to unlock speed limit for Samebike XMZ1214 here...

Thanks! Haven't seen this video. That LCD screen is huge! I will maybe go with something smaller, for example: https://www.banggood.com/24V36V48V60V-250W350W-LCD-Brushless-Motor-Controller-Battery-Speed-For-MTB-E-Bike-Scooter-p-1399444.html?rmmds=search&ID=520454517271&cur_warehouse=CN...

I removed the silicone and checked each cable that goes out of controller. They seem perfectly fine. I couldn’t find any melted coating or anything. And the PCB itself looks like new. Maybe I’m missing something, but I am really tired of trying to get this piece of crap working. New controller...

I’ve received the 5V regulator and replaced it on the board. Sadly, it didn’t have any effect. Still has 0.53V. Maybe it was not the regulator, but the blown cpu (problem number 4)?

Lol. It's still 10x cheaper and easier to replace than buying a new controller, so not a big deal. There are much cheaper options from China, but I would prefer UK seller because of faster delivery. Thanks a lot for your help!

Ok, so must be this little thing here: Does this look like a good replacement? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diodes-Inc-AS78L05ZTR-E1-Linear-Voltage-Regulator-100mA-5-V-A-5-3-Pin-TO-92/163124205787?hash=item25faf5d8db:g:kW4AAOSwxdRbNmVu

Right. That’s what I did. Wasn’t able to get no where close to 5V. So it must me a blown 5V regulator. You mentioned in the other thread that it’s an easy fix. How can I replace it?

Throttle has the same 0.55V on the board. Checked PAS connector as well - the same 0.55V. I also disconnected HAL sensor. It had quite a bit of mud inside. Voltage is 0.32V between red and black, 0.55V from black to yellow/green/blue and 0V from red to yellow/green/blue.

Let’s have a look inside: Not sure what to check. Cables seem ok. It started shortening after quite a bit of water got into compartment.

Wait. There is no 5V on controller side. It only has 0.55V. I thought it means that the 5V regulator is blown and the solution is to replace it inside the controller? Or is it in the throttle?

So I left orange/red/white to green/yellow/brown connected, enabled the controller and measured the voltage between orange and black, which you said are 5V wires. It was only 0.55V. However, for some reason everything (engine when throttle is pressed) starts working randomly from time to time...

Thanks. I checked MOSFETs. Battery negative to blue/yellow/green are all at exactly 3.17kΏ. Battery positives are around 26kΏ. Do these numbers make sense? Could you help me a bit with measuring 5V on the connectors? There are 6 cables for throttle in total, connected like this: Should I power...

Any suggestions for this controller replacement? Would any unbranded chinese controller for 48V and 350W fit? Mine is dead after a wet road ride a few days ago. I'd better have that silicone sealant applied, at least on some parts of the compartment..

I think your best option would be to try EVERY possible combination in the settings. At least that's what I did to find out the ignition trick.

Since there is a button, try the German method from the post number 21.

Nice! Do you have 20LVDX30 or XMZ1214? I could certainly do it, but is it really needed? The process seems straight-forward: you hold the left brake and turn-on/turn-off ignition multiple times till it resets to 00 km/h.