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Yes, all fixed now. Not easy to fit the new 'Correct' Hall sensor to the throttle ( apalling bit of cheapskate design) . Now enjoying what a great bike the Wisper 905 classic is. Works very well for me, as with my knackered lungs I can do some peddalling ,and then when I can't pedal any...

Just received this reply; after emailing the vendor of the hall sensors: New message from: torquetech-ebike (11,006) Hi John May I offer my sincerest apologies for the error. I hope you have not been too inconvenienced as a result. The 41F hall effect sensors that you have received...

Thanks vfr400- got it. Learning all the time! Just checked my ebay account, I did order the SS49. I was sent the SS41. I didn't check before I got stuck in!

The bike is working perfectly now it has the controller renewed. I havn't had any luck with replacing the throttle Hall sensor. I've tried 3 times without any success. The sensor I have used is a 41F which is a bipolar sensor. I have tried to test a couple of the sensors by connecting them to a...

Yes. I installed the new controller and it's working. I found then that the existing throttle isn't working though. I temporarily substituted an old throttle into the bike and that seems to work o. k . It seems that the throttle hall sensor isn't working-so I deduce that the mishap I had has...

Just an update. I checked all the voltages again yesterday. I was wrong with the measurement of 1.2v on the 5 v rail. when I checked again , I got 5v on the Pedal sensor , the throttle, and the Hall sensors. I also checked the continuity of the display cable from the display to the...

The bike was working perfectly before the bungee mishap. All the battery capacity LEDs were showing green. Since the mishap, the left LED of the 4 LED is flashing RED as shown in my video. Despite the battery voltage when measured being 40.6v. I checked the voltage on the 3 pin Pedal sensor...

"However, you should do some systematic checks first, as I would do if I had your bike here. 1. measure the battery voltage before and after switching the bike on. If it is under 36V, charge the battery first. 2. disconnect at the controller all the peripherals leaving just the LED panel: brake...

I didn't realise the display has it's own cpu. I 'm now stuck as I have exhausted all the things I can check. I can only think that the bungee being caught up in the gears/wrapped around the hub has resulted in an overload somewhere as the motor tried to turn against the resistance and has...

It is my understanding , please correct me if I'm wrong, that the control panel has identified that there is a problem, which according to the chart, is a 'System electronics/Software failure' So, the way I understand it is,there must have been communication with the controllers cpu for it to...

I have disconnected both lights from the controller. Although it looks like the cable is crushed, it is in fact a loose protective sleeve containing the rear lights inner wires. I can conform ( now I have modified my meter probes) that there is 5v present when the bike is first switched on at...

Good point. I'll disconnect the lights from the controller tomorrow. Probably been like since the bike was built was built though, it's an o.e.m part.

Yes, bungee wound itself around the hub, I believe also the gears. Didn't get near the motor cable which is despite what you say, firmly plugged in fully, as I have previously mentioned. The bike has a throttle. The cable you mention that is badly pinched is for the rear light.

Got it. I have a hunch- won't be able to confirm until I modify my meter probes tomorrow- that the controller is not switched on, because something has triggered a warning ( the lights flashing on the display are indicating this). I did try disconnection the brake switches to eliminate them.

What I was trying to say was when I switch the bike on, one light starts flashing, followed 15 seconds later by the entire bottom row of 6 lights flashing on/off. I'm wondering if because of this that power is not getting to the Hall sensors, P A.S, and throttle.

I did try to check for the 5 volts, was thwarted by my meter probes being too large to fit in the back of the connectors, I need to sort that tomorrow. I think that as the diagnostic lights are flashing the power is possibly being inhibited from powering up the controller circuitry. Do you think...

I have now tested the hall sensors and the motor windings using the 'ebike tester' All working as they should be.

Just got hold of an ' ebike tester' I'm about to go out so will be back on the case later on.

O.k I understand , I'll do that test soon.

Yes, I am acutely aware of the dangers. Never worn a watch or jewellery in my life. I'm wise enough in this particular area to know that it doesn't hurt to be reminded , so many thanks. Controller removed from the bike and power source. Completed the tests. shorted out the Live to Neutral...