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Does it look like this PCB on my controller? Mine was a not connected to the light output. In fact the yellow and orange wires that are referred to as “head light” on the wiring schemes are just connected straight to the battery terminal.

Thanks for the replies. Yes the light I have it’s 6-60V, works well. Understood, I’ll either add a switch, or keep it constantly on.

As far as I can tell, no. All the wires are in the pic posted above. Can’t use the blue wire for the cruise control I suppose? (Btw I removed the loop as I don’t need cruise mode). Yeah thought of a relay, but most automotive ones have a 12V coil - and high current contacts of course. A relay...

Hi all, Here to ask for your help once again. I’ve added a light to my bike, that is, one powered by the main battery (in addition to my trusty Moon Orion). I’d want this light to be controlled by the motor controller, but I’ve found the only 48v supply from my controller is permanent, i.e...

Hi all, Been quite busy the last few weeks, but the bike had been finished for some time now and I have used it everyday with the kids up and down the hills. I am now in a position to draw some solid conclusions on the two motors I’ve tested on my cargo. Actually, I had originally bought the...

Yes that does work. But with the sensor flipped the hall coils are a bit too far from the magnet and to work well the sensor casing needs to rest against the magnet disc. Tried leaving a tiny gap and it works but the minimum movement will result in erratic behaviour. Guess it’s best to source...

That. Thanks for replying. In fact, sensor works perfectly. When pedalling backwards. And as I thought, and you confirmed, it’s the arrangement of two hall sensors and circuitry that makes the difference, not the magnets. And I’m sorry to disagree with you VFR400, but flipping each...

Rethinking this, you suggest that the magnets are arranger in a staggered array on the disc? Meaning, they are alternating north and south poles? If so, only half of the magnets should be flipped, so to obtain an asymmetric array = all north or south poles on one side of the disc. Only if the...

OK, I will try that but I’m not convinced, besides makes no sense when it comes to Faraday’s laws. Will report back and I actually hope I’m wrong :-)

Well flipping the whole disc would achieve the same, did that and makes no difference. The sensors are handed and don’t think there’s a way to change that, unless one knows how to tweak an electronic circuit that is

Oh so you’ve got the sensor for the right side? Can I use my magnetic disc or have to fit yours? Either way, can I have one? :D

Aye I should have tested it before installing it, however no way this sensor is going on the left crank. I’m all for a clean installation and even if I did manage to get it on the left crank it’d look s*#te:D It’s unfortunate I had no knowledge that these sensors are handed, and that the 5, 8...

Nope turning the magnet over does not work, the sensor is clearly handed. Those two little black parallel components on the sensor only generate a signal if the magnet moves from one side to the other, not the opposite (is this an hall sensor?). I did try turning the sensor 180 degrees, it...

And one more post ;-P Guess nothing can be done with this sensor to reverse the signal?

OK this is my very sensor but made to work on the RH side: KT-D12r https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272864678672 Bit steep at £19.95 though :(

Found this: http://dillengerelectricbikes.co.uk/enthusiasts/grin-technologies/peripherals/pas-12p-chr-by-grin.html Not sure it’d work with my controller, as it’s a quadrature sensor whereas mine obviously is a simple 3-wires sensor. Man these little hiccups drive me crazy :)

Front hub motor now tested properly - can only say I’m super happy with it! Slow on the flats, in fact I pedal faster than the motor pulls. But uphill it’s marvellous, just winches you up steady at 6-8 mph. Now, got an issue with the PAS sensor. Since there’s no space between the cranks and BB...

No, haven’t used the speed sensor of the TSDZ2. In fact to test both motors I used no cadence sensor on the SWX02. I thought the speed sensor is internal on the hub motor? Probably have to adjust parameters as suggested above. Will report when done so ;-)

Thanks, will do that tomorrow. In fact, how about all the other settings, especially the C settings? Is there a guide somewhere to understand the way they work? I’ll be looking up also the parameters of my motor for setting things properly. Cheers

Aye that’s my plan. Have a feeling don’t need the TSDZ2. It’s a nice motor though. Probably can resell it easily to somebody that got my same cargo bike. Oh, meant to ask: the LCD3 shows crazy speeds! As soon as the motor rotates, speed goes up to 65mph! When I said the motor did 18mph on the...