Alternative motors for Eleglide City Crosser

[bjay]

Hi , I purchased an Eleglide Citycrosser about 7 months ago and now the bike is unusable. The motor works but the nuts on the hub casing of the motor (the part connected to the sprockets) have all broken inside the motor, also part of the hub casing has broken. I'm unable to get a new motor from www.eleglide.com as they only ship these motors to the EU market. Is there a compatible motor I can get? The motor is 250W 36V with instantaneous power of 400W and max torque of 45Nm. It will be a compatible motor that would work with the existing battery and controller, as well as the torque sensor. Thanks.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Hi , I purchased an Eleglide Citycrosser about 7 months ago and now the bike is unusable. The motor works but the nuts on the hub casing of the motor (the part connected to the sprockets) have all broken inside the motor, also part of the hub casing has broken. I'm unable to get a new motor from www.eleglide.com as they only ship these motors to the EU market. Is there a compatible motor I can get? The motor is 250W 36V with instantaneous power of 400W and max torque of 45Nm. It will be a compatible motor that would work with the existing battery and controller, as well as the torque sensor. Thanks.

Is it just a standard 9 pin connector from the rear hub ? I guess you could possibly just use any rear hub motor and wheel ? Are the dropouts standard ?
What happened ? Was it an accident? Is there a reason you are not claiming on the guarantee ?

 

[saneagle]

Hi , I purchased an Eleglide Citycrosser about 7 months ago and now the bike is unusable. The motor works but the nuts on the hub casing of the motor (the part connected to the sprockets) have all broken inside the motor, also part of the hub casing has broken. I'm unable to get a new motor from www.eleglide.com as they only ship these motors to the EU market. Is there a compatible motor I can get? The motor is 250W 36V with instantaneous power of 400W and max torque of 45Nm. It will be a compatible motor that would work with the existing battery and controller, as well as the torque sensor. Thanks.

We need more details. What you're saying doesn't make sense. It's a seven speed, so should be a freewheel motor. The side-plate is held on with 6 screws. There are no nuts. Can you show photos of the damage? You also need to disconnect the motor and show a picture of the pins in the connector on the motor side.

 

[bjay]

Is it just a standard 9 pin connector from the rear hub ? I guess you could possibly just use any rear hub motor and wheel ? Are the dropouts standard ?
What happened ? Was it an accident? Is there a reason you are not claiming on the guarantee ?

Hi Peter thanks. Will look at the pin. The shearing

Is it just a standard 9 pin connector from the rear hub ? I guess you could possibly just use any rear hub motor and wheel ? Are the dropouts standard ?
What happened ? Was it an accident? Is there a reason you are not claiming on the guarantee ?

Ah okay. Just rechecked the warranty and the motor is for 12months so will see if it is covered by the warranty. It was not accident, it's basically wear and tear. I will check the connector. Thanks.

 

[bjay]

We need more details. What you're saying doesn't make sense. It's a seven speed, so should be a freewheel motor. The side-plate is held on with 6 screws. There are no nuts. Can you show photos of the damage? You also need to disconnect the motor and show a picture of the pins in the connector on the motor side.

Hi, sorry my mistake. It's the screws to the side plate that have snapped of. Attached are the pictures of the damage. I'm not sure how to disconnect the motor but will check and send pictures of it. Is it just the connector that matters if it is a standard rear hub? Thanks.

 

[Woosh]

I think he uses too long bolts for his rotor. The motor comes with 6 M5x10 rotor bolts. He probably used 11mm bolts from his old wheel and ruined the speed sensor inside.
The motor is repairable.

 

[saneagle]

Hi, sorry my mistake. It's the screws to the side plate that have snapped of. Attached are the pictures of the damage. I'm not sure how to disconnect the motor but will check and send pictures of it. Is it just the connector that matters if it is a standard rear hub? Thanks.

That's unusual. They must have come loose. You should be able to repair it by centre-punching what's left of the screw, drill a small hole, then use a screw extractor to unscrew it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-S0900-Screw-Extractor-5-Piece/dp/B003JTKWU2/ref=asc_df_B003JTKWU2/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=231905005622&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12390752676013014707&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046473&hvtargid=pla-423311589581&psc=1&mcid=94874be513903273b91d624616902e2c

Be careful, it's very easy to snap the extractor if you bend it to the side, so try to keep it straight while you use it to unscrew the thread.

You didn't show the connectors, which we need to recommend a motor!

 

[bjay]

Hi, the connector is nine pin. Thanks.

 

[saneagle]

Hi, the connector is nine pin. Thanks.

You have a freewheel rear motor that has hall sensors, which is the most common type. You can use any sensored motor you want without changing your controller or anything else electric. The power and size don't really matter, but you should get one with a max speed of around 260 rpm unless you have a special reason not to.