Assistance required - Used powabyke

[hopper_rider]

I bought a second hand powabyke folder for my nephew. I told myself in advance not to buy it, if it was not fully charged and working. But my nephew saw it and wanted it and I allowed my good judgement to be put aside.

It seems that even when it is apparently fully charged the battery does not have much power.

As it was well out of warranty, I opened the battery pack. Its like a ton of rocks. It contained 2 x 12v 7.2ah batteries and 2 x 6v 7.2 ah batteries linked together. Sealed Lead Acid.

How can I test these batteries individually to see if any or all are still effective? The charger suggests they are charged but they lack ooomph.

I will need idiot proof instructions as this is a new venture for me. I want to be able to just get the bike working in the cheapest way initially. Longer term it may be worth more time or money if the bike proves itself.

This could mean upgrading to a newer battery type eventually but I really just want to get it going with as little expense as possible initially.

I have read that a multimeter can be used to test batteries. I have one now but have never used one so I need A B C instructions.


Apologies to forum moderators. I have just posted this as a blog in error.

 

[jazper53]

It will not be difficult to replace the battery packs it will require some soldering and must take care to make note of the present wiring by drawing a diagram and when u replace batteries, solder them back in the same order as they will be wired in series. Checking the batteries you could separate them and individually charge them on standard 12/6v charger to see if one or more are not holding charge.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg4nnsVjMUU

 

[D8ve]

Where are you?
to test the power you need to know voltage times amps time time?

Easiest way is multy meter on dc volts charged should read 12.6+ volts.
To check volts connect red lead to + sign and black to -
conect a car light bulb to batts 12 volt ones individualy and 2*6 volt ones in searese.
for a twenty watt bulb you should get around 3 and a half hours light from all three set ups.
and a flat batt output of 11.7 volts or 10.6 under load.
But old lead acid batteries fail anyhow. google and others will provide info.
PS Dyslexic so please moderate coments

 

[hopper_rider]

I am London based. So could take to a shop but I want to use it as a learning opportunity and keep any outlay to a minimum right now.

I am aware that older lead acid may just be past their sell by. I do have a Ctek type charger which I believe can sometimes recover old batteries but this and the multimeter are things I have bought previously but never used. Now I need to gain the knowledge to complete the tasks.

I havent got a soldering iron at present. Will I need one to complete this task myself?

 

[jazper53]

I had a similar bike many years ago you may have a duff battery in the series and could replace but I would recommend if its a old bike which by the fact its SLA to replace all the batteries, you will need to separate the wiring and check the batteries individually with the meter to check if u have a duff one

 

[flecc]

You shouldn't need a soldering iron to either test or change the batteries, they normally have plug on connectors on Powabykes.

 

[Alan Quay]

I havent got a soldering iron at present. Will I need one to complete this task myself?

You may find that the battery's are connected with spade terminals, which you can simply push on/pull off.

Edit - Sorry Flecc, typing while you were posting.

 

[hopper_rider]

I had a similar bike many years ago you may have a duff battery in the series and could replace but I would recommend if its a old bike which by the fact its SLA to replace all the batteries, you will need to separate the wiring and check the batteries individually with the meter to check if u have a duff one

I know it would be cheapest to just replace any duff batteries. But if several are duff I will then be thinking about the possibility of replacing with different newer more effective battery technology.

At present there is a kettle lead connector that plugs into the battery pack case. Could this also be used to plug into some newer type setup if that is the route I decide to take?

 

[jazper53]

At present there is a kettle lead connector that plugs into the battery pack case. Could this also be used to plug into some newer type setup if that is the route I decide to take?

If its nothing to do with the charger input, otherwise no idea

 

[Alan Quay]

Dont know about the kettle lead, but you could get 8ah 36 Li-ion battery delivered from BMS Battery for £150 (plus a bit for VAT/handling at customs)

That would probably double the original range.

Alternatively, stick with SLA's for about £75 (but they are much heavier, and will not last very long)

MK Mobility Scooter Battery (Pair) SLA AGM 12 V 7.2 A/H | eBay

 

[flecc]

At present there is a kettle lead connector that plugs into the battery pack case. Could this also be used to plug into some newer type setup if that is the route I decide to take?

That's easy to change over to any other charger lead you may use, but it may then need a soldering iron to carry out that change.

 

[jazper53]

I havent got a soldering iron at present. Will I need one to complete this task myself?

On the battery pack I had the wiring was soldered onto the battery terminals You will need to check as Flecc said whether they are push on connectors or not as to whether u need a soldering Iron.

 

[hopper_rider]

I know there are better newer battery types around these days

The current set up consists of




2 of each. The kettle lead connector I was referring to is the way the battery pack connects up whilst on the bike.

The only reason I mentioned it, was that if I decided to go with a newer battery I would need to connect to the old bike wiring setup unless I decided to replace it all.

 

[hopper_rider]

On the battery pack I had the wiring was soldered onto the battery terminals You will need to check as Flecc said whether they are push on connectors or not as to whether u need a soldering Iron.

It seems that the connectors do pull off. So let me get this right.

First I need to test with a multimeter on each of them.....?
Then if need be charge with the ctek type battery charger?
Then replace with working model if still duff?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Could you post a picture of the inside of the battery case showing the connections?

Is the controller in that box too? Before recommending a battery, we need to know how many amps, which should be written on the controller.

BMS Battery do some nice rack batteries with the kettle socket already on. They should work as a direct replacement, and they come with the correct charger. I think you'll need at least 12AH, but can't say for certain until you tell us the controller amps.
This is the one I'm thinking of. which will make the bike much lighter and more enjoyable to ride:
36V12Ah LiFePO4 Alloy 05-Case EBike Battery Pack - BMSBATTERY

To check your present batteries, charge them up and then go for a short ride. When you get back, measure the voltage across the terminals of each battery in turn and give us the results. That should give us an idea which ones need replacing.

 

[hopper_rider]

Could you post a picture of the inside of the battery case showing the connections?

Is the controller in that box too? Before recommending a battery, we need to know how many amps, which should be written on the controller.

BMS Battery do some nice rack batteries with the kettle socket already on. They should work as a direct replacement, and they come with the correct charger. I think you'll need at least 12AH, but can't say for certain until you tell us the controller amps.
This is the one I'm thinking of. which will make the bike much lighter and more enjoyable to ride:
36V12Ah LiFePO4 Alloy 05-Case EBike Battery Pack - BMSBATTERY

To check your present batteries, charge them up and then go for a short ride. When you get back, measure the voltage across the terminals of each battery in turn and give us the results. That should give us an idea which ones need replacing.

Yes I could do that but need to charge my phone first..... Duh! Real world problems and all that.
I will but it may be a little while.

 

[hopper_rider]

The batteries in the case

 

[hopper_rider]

Battery case inputs

 

[hopper_rider]

Battery case wiring

The controller is in the box on the handlebars????

 

[hopper_rider]

I think this is the controller box?