bf rmg06 36v 350w (10) Suitable controller?

[Albus]

Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum. I wonder if I may ask for some help (and in doing so please forgive any apparent stupidity on my behalf)?
In 2017 I bought an Edge Fat Tyre e-bike. I believe this company is no longer in operaration ( Godaddy states that the edge bike. com domain is for sale). The bike had very little use because of personal circumstances with which I won’t bore you.

I‘ve brought my bike out of storage now and decided to get it going. The battery is good and holds a full charge. However the display does not function (ie it is completely dead) and I suspect it has been damaged while in storage. I decided to change the display and so have entered a minefield! I tried a S866 which powers on , shows battery level, and allows me to set 5x PAS levels but the display does not show the speed and the odometer. The bike itself responds to the throttle control and appears to give PAS. From research I know that there can be issues concerning communication between display and controller, but I have tried all 3x protocol settings in P20 without success.

I know from reading around that it‘s best to by a matched pair of display and controller ( KT seems to get good reports) but my question is which would be the best to match the motor? I’m not looking for any increase in performance but simply to restore the bike to its original full working order.

motor :-Bafang bf rmg06 36v 350w (10)
present controller :-
LSW 1155 17 2M X1709031447 G3M20211 1592 16 36V 17A” ( I believe LSW indicates Lishui but I’ve not been able to discover anything more about the model number).

Very many thanks in anticipation.

 

[AntonyC]

You should have no trouble matching your present controller's voltage and current, near enough, and probably find a sine controller. BF & KT wiring schemes differ a bit so check the plugs. If anyone points to the 350W motor marking the 7A or 8A rated current makes it about a 250W rated system.

Battery capacity shrinks with age so an old one still shows full but has less range, less peak power for hill climbing and can only safely be charged at the slow rate, often 2A. I'd give it a few good test rides before replacing the controller & display.

 

[Albus]

Many thanks, Antony.

So the Bafang motor itself does not mean that some specialised controller using a particular communication protocol is required (in my research I have come across controllers specifically labelled “ Bafang controller” ) it’s just the connectors I have to look out for?

 

[AntonyC]

AFAIK, yes. Bafang mid drives (1) can have a controller built in that is specific to the motor but yours is a hub drive. Your connectors are typical for motor and battery without comms, so as long as the cables at the bottom right are their only cables you'll probably be OK.

(1) or H700/H800/some G* hubs - ChatGPT

 

[saneagle]

Many thanks, Antony.

So the Bafang motor itself does not mean that some specialised controller using a particular communication protocol is required (in my research I have come across controllers specifically labelled “ Bafang controller” ) it’s just the connectors I have to look out for?

The LCDs work as a switch for the controller. The power for the controller's CPU and all the sensors runs up the red wire to the LCD, and when it's switched on, back down the blue wire to the controller. If you disconnect the LCD and bridge those two wires, you normally get normal throttle operation and fixed level 1 pedal assist. All the other functions need communications, so won't work, the same as if you have an LCD that doesn't match. The LCD only needs the red and the black wires to switch on and show some basic info, but it needs comms for all the main functions.

Your system appears to be very standard with all the normal block connectors, so any controller and LCD pair should work with it. Very occasionally, you have to swap a pair of pins in the pedal sensor connector, and, even rarer, you have to swap some pins in the hall sensor connector to get the motor going.

17A controllers are not that common. KT do make one, but you have to hunt through Aliexpress, Ebay and Amazon to find them. 20A ones are more common, which would give a bit more power, if you want that, and should work OK with your battery if it's more than 15Ah, otherwise you can use a 15A one that will give a bit less power than what you presently have. These currents are the maximum current from the controller. The rated current is always half of that and is pretty well meaningless.

 

[Albus]

Very many thanks, Antony and seneagle. I’ll give it a go!

 

[Albus]

Sorry “saneagle” (blasted predictive text!!).

 

[saneagle]

Sorry “saneagle” (blasted predictive text!!).

No need to be sorry. Everybody seems to get it wring. I wondered why. Here's where the name came from 14 years ago. How things have changed!

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