Controller or battery issue

Matt hignett

Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2020
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Herts
For the new battery spec one that is 30a contiuous so it can cope with demand of the old controller if you are going to still use it in the short term.
With two batteries the best use for them is to parallel them together by making up a parallel lead, then they act as one and will discharge uniformly. They will still be 36v or 48v but the capacity and discharge current increases by adding each to the other so for example, if you had 25 & 30a discharge batteries in P they would have a 55a discharge rate and would run with less stress on the cells. Capacity wise say a 13ah and 15ah they will run as a 28ah battery so will hold a higher voltage level for longer and overall voltage sag will be less.

The critical bit when paralleling batteries is they must be disconnected and charged separately as each will have it's own BMS, when connecting them in parallel they must be at near the same voltage charge. That means they should ideally be within 0.025v so as to reduce voltage equalisation/heat exchange, the heat that can be generated is immense. The wider the voltage difference current will flow in nano seconds, extreme heat is caused by current flow from widely varying voltages when connected.
thanks for the information.
I have decided not to bother getting a replacement battery and just go for a totally new setup, as close to a “plug and play” system as possible. It seems your can’t get a decent battery in the uk with a reasonable amount of mAh at the moment that is a dolphin type configuration.
anyway, I have specc’ed to the best of my ability anshstem, without a replacement motor and have attached a photo before purchasing. Is this correct? my theory with a plug and play is that even someone inexperienced like me should be able to plug it together and get it working!

thoughts?
 

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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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You can't use item #3 , the Bafang cable extender isn't compatible with the Julet WP systems, the connectors are Higo WP and all though they will mate and fit Julet the pin outs wired different.

Any item (with the exception of a Bafang hub motor)with Bafang or Higo named in the description will not be compatible except for Bafang motor kits with Bafang controllers.
 
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Matt hignett

Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2020
26
0
Herts
You can't use item #3 , the Bafang cable extender isn't compatible with the Julet WP systems, the connectors are Higo WP and all though they will mate and fit Julet the pin outs wired different.

Any item (with the exception of a Bafang hub motor)with Bafang or Higo named in the description will not be compatible except for Bafang motor kits with Bafang controllers.
Thansk! I’ll need to extend the connection from the controller to the motor, the display and throttle. I was hoping I could Purchase extender cables to fit. s everything else is ok, just the; throttle extension? Battery is suitable? Can you advise on the cable?

thanks as ever. I’ll just have to wait till shipment from China arrives. Literally ready to purchase right away
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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You can buy them if you look at the description for the right item.

The motor connector you chose is correct.

Battery looks good , it uses the 3200mah Panny cell, the bigger brother of the 2900mah PF cell both rated 10a. It performs much the same as the PF with slightly less sag, capacity is a wee bit more.
 
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Matt hignett

Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2020
26
0
Herts
You can buy them if you look at the description for the right item.

The motor connector you chose is correct.

Battery looks good , it uses the 3200mah Panny cell, the bigger brother of the 2900mah PF cell both rated 10a. It performs much the same as the PF with slightly less sag capacity is a wee bit more.
Brilliant, thanks for this. My issue is the display is , in essence 1metre away from the thumb throttle due to the type of handbike I own. If uou look at the attached phot closely you can see the display on one handlebar and the throtttle on the other under the gear selector.. The controller box in attached To the backrest and the battery on the rear rack.My fear is the cabke you’ve highlighted, by the photos, isn’t long enough to selerste the screen that far away from the throttle. Maybe I could buy two and run them Separately to the Controller ?
 

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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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In the second pic you have drunk all the H.

You can buy individual Julet to Julet extender cables for individual items so only one 1T2 cable is needed and run an extender to each connector. Select the colour coded Julet end you need Yellow one for throttle and Green for display, you can buy M/M, F/F or M/F ended cables.
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Matt you might want to consider buying the Julet 1T4 cable instead of the 1T2 one so that you can fit a brake cutout /kill switch in case of throttle malfunction. With out the cut out if a fault develops then the throttle can go open and then when you try and stop by using the brakes only the high current can/will blow the controller.
If a throttle does go open once under control it can then be unplugged until repairs are made, It has happened to me twice once was an intermittent wire break/connection and the other was down to moisture tracks causing interference.
Both times the bike has wanted to rear up and disappear luckily for me I was able both times to use the brake cut outs to stall the electronics.
 

Matt hignett

Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2020
26
0
Herts
In the second pic you have drunk all the H.

You can buy individual Julet to Julet extender cables for individual items so only one 1T2 cable is needed and run an extender to each connector. Select the colour coded Julet end you need Yellow one for throttle and Green for display, you can buy M/M, F/F or M/F ended cables.
Ah the H was consumed in the summer post that ride, the latter photo was in December just gone, after discovering a new trail off an old railway line, that was followed by a bacon sarnie and obligatory coffee!

thanks so much for the extension cable info, that’s idea. I’ll update the spec and post tomorrow once it’s ready for purchasing.
 

Matt hignett

Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2020
26
0
Herts
Matt you might want to consider buying the Julet 1T4 cable instead of the 1T2 one so that you can fit a brake cutout /kill switch in case of throttle malfunction. With out the cut out if a fault develops then the throttle can go open and then when you try and stop by using the brakes only the high current can/will blow the controller.
If a throttle does go open once under control it can then be unplugged until repairs are made, It has happened to me twice once was an intermittent wire break/connection and the other was down to moisture tracks causing interference.
Both times the bike has wanted to rear up and disappear luckily for me I was able both times to use the brake cut outs to stall the electronics.
Noted. I have typically used the powe on/off button for any issues such as the aforementione. It’s very nicely placed and in easy reach. I was presuming the ee screen I specc’ed would have an associated power on/off button? If not then I will definitely need a kill switch!
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Instinct for me is to grab the brake which is quicker then fumbling for an on/off button esp if I'm wearing gloves.
 

Matt hignett

Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2020
26
0
Herts
Instinct for me is to grab the brake which is quicker then fumbling for an on/off button esp if I'm wearing gloves.
Sorry for the slow response, I have not yet put the order in because I had a terminal disaster on my hand bike. I snapped the frame! So I will hopefully get this welded over the next week or two and then look at ordering the relevant parts from China. Again, sorry for my slow response and here’s a photo to show you the damage. I’m quite proud that someone with arm function can destroy a mountain bike!
 

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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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It's all that spinach you are eating Popeye :D.
I was going to say :cool: fr being able to break it but looks like there is an element of rust around the break so fatigue/stress ahs got it in the end ?
 

Gordon R

Just Joined
Jun 17, 2020
2
0
Hi
I've got 2 Granite Batribikes. One was my brothers, he gave up on his 6 months ago. They are both coming up to 5 years old. One has done over 8000 miles the other 4000 miles. Both bikes developed an intermittent problem similar to yours. I spent time testing each cells and they were all fine and the voltage output was around 41 volts when the bikes were working. Just by chance I checked the 30amp car type fuse. It was blackened and had groves on one tab. I filed it and cleaned it. The bike started to work. This was also the problem on my brothers bike. I couldn't believe I wasted so much time and it was only a 30amp fuse. (10 for £1.99). You might have the same problem if you have the same type of fuse.

Good luck

Gordon