Converting my Schwinn Hinge folder

Yelodwg

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 9, 2017
16
0
74
Arnold, CA
www.tvracer.com
I've read and understood a fair amount on the forum, but don't understand many things. I have a Schwinn Hinge 20" wheel folder (which I am actually enjoying more than my just-sold Dahon Speed Uno, although the Uno is a better made bike). I live in the mountains, but the main areas I ride on are minimal grades, perhaps 1-2%. To get to the main road, there is a short (50 feet) 6% grade. I want assisted pedaling, not throttle.

I want to install the following:

1) Q100H on the front hub

2) 36V 12.5Ah Battery with rack - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/782-36v125ah-case-02-18650-battery-pack-battery.html I already have a rack on the back of my bike. This rack would replace. I figured the battery in the back would offset the front hub motor weight. I was considering a bottle battery on the downtube, but that tube is ovalized.

3) BMS Battery says either the S06P or S06S. I want to keep it simple and less $ with a cadence sensor.

4) I don't need a display, although am not adverse to having one.

Do I have this wrong, can I do better?

Tom
 
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Deleted member 4366

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You need the S06S, not the S06P for a Q100. The only thing you need to check is that your forks are 100mm wide. Many 20" bikes have 75mm forks.

You need the LCD with the S06S because it gives you access to all the essential settings.

The Q100 and the S06S are an excellent combination - smooth, quiet and powerful. The LCD allows you to set the power to whatever you want, so you also need it to work with your pedal sensor.

Fit a throttle too. You don't have to use it, but there will be occasions when you're glad you installed one.

Don't forget to click 328 rpm.
 

Yelodwg

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 9, 2017
16
0
74
Arnold, CA
www.tvracer.com
d8veh,

Thanks for the reply! So you are suggesting the Q100 rather than the Q100H?

Regarding the 100mm, yep, actually, we had that conversation before which led me to sell my Speed Uno. This Hinge does have the 100mm, thanks!

Is there a certain LCD I should be looking for?

And yes on the 328 :)

Tom
 
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Deleted member 4366

Guest
It used to be that the Q100 was 201 and 328 rpm and the Q100H was 260 rpm. The Q100H got its extra torque by down-gearing the 328 rpm one with different internal gearing, which is effectively what you do going from a 26" wheel to a 20" one with the 328 rpm motor.

Now they list a range of speeds in both variants, so I'm not sure what's going on. I think the max for the Q100H is still 260 rpm.

If you fit the 260 rpm, you'll get better climbing power and good power around 12 mph, but power will drop off above that speed until it runs out at about 15 mph. That would be better than 328 rpm if you don't want to ride any faster.

The whole core of the motor including the gearing can be removed as a lump, which makes it easy to convert from one version to another. The bare motors don't cost much, so if you find that you've chosen the wrong one, it's not a big problem to convert it to another version.
 

Yelodwg

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 9, 2017
16
0
74
Arnold, CA
www.tvracer.com
D8veh,

"I think the max for the Q100H is still 260 rpm"... yes, I see that's what their site says. Now I completely understand, good explanation!

So on to the battery. Originally, I was thinking, just go for it, get the 36V 14.5ah Panasonic battery, but that weighs 13.2 lbs and $299 USD vs the 36V 12.5ah which weighs 9.9 lbs and $196 USD. These weights include the rack and yes, I know shipping is a good amount for everything I want.

So my questions are:

1) Are the Panasonic batteries THAT much better?

2) Do I really need the 12.5 and what about the 14.5? Or should I be looking more for an 8ah to 10ah?

Tom
 
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Deleted member 4366

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Both those batteries weigh the same because they each have 59 cells in them. Cells weigh 45 -50g. Everything else is the same. Panasonic is definitely better, but I wouldn't say 50% better.

The lighter the battery the better. A 40 cell one with something like Samsung 30Q would be 20% lighter and still give 12AH.

Aliexpress has a load of batteries.

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170705085622&SearchText=36v+rack+battery

Most of them have a receiver plate that you bolt to a standard rack, which i think looks nicer.

I don't know whether you can trust all of them. This one says 13AH from 40 cells, which would make each cell 3250mAH. I can't think of any that match that, so it's 50 cells of 2600maH, which is much more common.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/36V-13Ah-1203-rear-rack-battery-for-electric-bicycle/32690721576.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.116.IHS6vD&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10192_10190_10301_10136_10137_10303_10060_5360018_10155_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_519_10111_10112_10113_10114_10179_10182_10184_10078_10079_10073_10189_142,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_4&btsid=166b6151-d894-4c61-b494-1a147bc4a14f&algo_expid=41551809-b54a-4808-97e6-3786d4f9815f-15&algo_pvid=41551809-b54a-4808-97e6-3786d4f9815f
 

Yelodwg

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 9, 2017
16
0
74
Arnold, CA
www.tvracer.com
When I was a kid, I loved my rat trap holder on my bike rack. My Schwinn Hinge came with the same setup. I decided 1) I don't want to get rid of that with a new bike rack battery and 2) I saw a 20" folder with a bike rack battery and it looked really out of balance.

The Hinge's downtube is ovalized, with no water bottle holder mounts, but I designed a cool way to hold a bottle battery, so I am going to go that route.

Here's my latest list:

1) Cute 100 - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/333-q100-36v250w-350w-front-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html

2) 36V11.6Ah Bottle ebike panasonic (4P10S Li-ion 2.9Ah panasonic NCR18650PF 18650) battery with S06S integrated controller - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/675-36v116ah-bottle-ebike-panasonic-battery-battery.html#/27-ac_voltage-200264vac/323-controller-s06s_hall_sensor_sine_wave

3) Dual Hall Sensor 12 Signals - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/705-dual-hall-sensor-12-signals-easy-assembling-pas-ebike-kit.html

4) Half Twist Throttle with LED Voltage Level Display - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/390-half-twist-throttle-with-led-voltage-level-display-parts.html

Does this sound doable?

Tom
 
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Deleted member 4366

Guest
That's it.

the button is just a latching on/off switch. You can use it for anything: lights, throttle disable, controller on/off, PAS disable, etc. Most of that is covered with your LCD, so no point in having it.

The plain half-throttles can be installed in any rotational position, which gives you more chance to keep avoid the cable outlet interfering with other things.
 

Yelodwg

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 9, 2017
16
0
74
Arnold, CA
www.tvracer.com
Great! My shopping list is nearing completion :)

I realized one thing I haven't addressed. What about connecting cables? For instance, I'd like to be able to take off the front wheel if I need to change a tire. I've seen setups where right outside the motor, there are connectors.

Now I will have the bottle battery with an integrated controller, and I need to connect: the motor, LCD, throttle, and cadence sensor
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
There's a waterproof connector about a foot from the motor. Everything is plug and play with that kit. the only problem is that they make the wires too long, so you have to find a way to hide it.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

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When I see these photos:

1) https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/668-36v-s06s-sine-wave-integrated-controller-for-new-bottle-case-ebike-kit.html

2) https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/546-s06s-250w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-ebike-kit.html

These wires are too short to reach the motor, LCD, throttle, and cadence sensor. I will need wire and what connectors to reach them?

Tom
Don't worry. You don't need to add any wire. You can shorten the wires if you want, but it's a lot of work. There's 9 in the motor cable and 9 in the LCD cable. They have moulded connectors at each end, so you have to cut the cable in the middle somewhere, remove the right amount, strip back 18 ends, solder then and heatshrink them all.