Crank sensor broken ats
- Thread starter Fredy
- Start date
Why do you need a replacement?
I can see that the lug is broken off, but that doesn't stop it from working. You can fabricate a lug out of epoxy putty or anything else like that. You don't even need the lug. You can stop the sensor from rotating by fixing it with a cable tie.
I'm not sure you can buy the sensor on its own. I heard that it comes as a set with the crank, which makes it very expensive. You should be able to get one of those from Halfords, as they use it on their Crossfire-E.
I can see that the lug is broken off, but that doesn't stop it from working. You can fabricate a lug out of epoxy putty or anything else like that. You don't even need the lug. You can stop the sensor from rotating by fixing it with a cable tie.
I'm not sure you can buy the sensor on its own. I heard that it comes as a set with the crank, which makes it very expensive. You should be able to get one of those from Halfords, as they use it on their Crossfire-E.
Hi. I have replaced this before and the second one just broke. I would love to rewire this setup with a derestricted throttle. Any idea what controller would work?
Sounds exciting. Yep no problems on either account. I can strip a bike and I’ve built my own quadcopter. Where do we begin.
In principle, you can use any standard Chinese controller because they all work the same. We recommend a KT sine wave controller with LCD and the rest of the stuff from PSWpower.com. You will need to tick the 10 pole PAS, thumb throttle and speed sensor as well as the LCD3 when ordering. Cost is about £70. get the 36v/48v one in case you want to go up to 48v when your battery expires. You also need a motor cable extension.
You have to disassemble the present controller from the battery base and run some extension battery wires to wherever you locate the new controller. Decide how and where tou want to house the new controller. Easiest is in an under-saddle tool bag. Cut the motor extension cable 8" from the end with male pins, cut off your motor connector and join the two wires. Cut off the motor connectors from the new controller and and join the wires from the other length of motor cable. Install the throttle, LCD and pedal sensor. connect everything up and enjoy your new system.
Brake switches are optional. I can't remember if your bike already has them. if it does, splice in the wires to the controller. personally, I don't use them with these controllers. The speed sensor is just in case your motor's one packs up or doesn't like to play.
I can’t see a 10 pole pas. There is a Kt-by-waterproof that’s got 6 signals.
Use this one:
With an additional 12 pole pas.Use this one:
All orderedUse this one:
Hello my helpful pal.
I have connected everything up in a test version and it’s working great first time.
Only niggle is that it maxes out at 20mph even though max speed is set to 72kph.
Any ideas why?
But anyway thanks for holding my hand during the buying process, much appreciated.
I have connected everything up in a test version and it’s working great first time.
Only niggle is that it maxes out at 20mph even though max speed is set to 72kph.
Any ideas why?
But anyway thanks for holding my hand during the buying process, much appreciated.
20mph is about 32km/h , the top speed that the hub is wound for at 36v.
The lcd speed setting for 72km/h is there for those who use 500rpm D/D hubs so they can utilise the hubs speed mainly for the US market.
The lcd speed setting for 72km/h is there for those who use 500rpm D/D hubs so they can utilise the hubs speed mainly for the US market.
Hi Nealh
how do you get into the settings of the lcd? I see lots of posts about c and p numbers but don’t know how to change these.
Reason I’m asking is PAS isn’t working. Led on sensor flashes but motor doesn’t kick in and I assume I need to change a setting.
thanks.
Ah I’ve found a manual. My kit came with a single piece of paper with the basics on it.