CS2 Greenedge not turning on

[Ricksdetrix]

I've had this bike for about 2-3 months now, it was second hand when I bought it with 200 miles on the clock (although I quickly found out you can reset it) and I've ridden an additional 230 miles. I've for the most part looked after it, kept it stored indoors (though it's ridden in the rain a couple of times). Everything was fine and I was enjoying it until a few days ago when the LED was displaying that the battery wasn't full after a full nights charge. It didn't seem to affect the ride for the next two days and I charged it after every journey but the battery would display as full, and the LED as full and drop to 1 or 2 bars as soon as I started riding or just display 1-2 from the get go. Last night riding home from work it did the same, jumped to 1-2 but I managed to get to work. When I set off from work (the battery was on charge the whole time at work) It flashed empty for the first time, started displaying some weird numbers/letters (I think it was o3?) and the little engine symbol lit up. Now the LED display won't turn on at all, though the battery LED still displays as being full.

I've had a look and a clean of the connecters, the fuse seems to be fine though I'm going to get a new one and get some conductive grease to put on the pins to see if that helps and I've looked through all the exposed wiring on the bike for loose connections but nothing is seeming out of place. Any ideas are welcome.

 

[Nealh]

You have to show pics of the controller and display so we know possibly what tech is on the bike then we may be able to find what error 03 is. Could be a phase or hall fault depends on the kit/bike electronics.

 

[Ricksdetrix]

You have to show pics of the controller and display so we know possibly what tech is on the bike then we may be able to find what error 03 is. Could be a phase or hall fault depends on the kit/bike electronics.

Sorry for the late reply.

The LED display has the marker 'intelligent' and the frame 'greenedgebikes cs2/16, let me know if there's anything else I missed

 

[Nealh]

03 error I think with Intelligent display is Phase wire issue, but if the display isn't switching on then it could be at fault or the supply via the controller is at fault.

Double check the battery has a voltage output reading using a meter, if you don't have one buy one for about £5.

 

[Ricksdetrix]

03 error I think with Intelligent display is Phase wire issue, but if the display isn't switching on then it could be at fault or the supply via the controller is at fault.

Double check the battery has a voltage output reading using a meter, if you don't have one buy one for about £5.

I'll check when I get home tonight, am I correct in thinking that as its a 36v 9Ah battery it should display 36v on the meter? I believe mine has an ampage setting too which should show 9Ah?

 

[Nealh]

Voltage will depend on current SOC so anything from 32 - 42v.

 

[Ricksdetrix]

Voltage will depend on current SOC so anything from 32 - 42v.

Got a steady 41.9v, couldn't make sense of the ampage. Anything to check next? I can't find any parts online other than the battery and halfords can't take repair it cause it's not one of their bikes, though they said I could take it down to have a look.

 

[Nealh]

It is possible to short the display wires together on /at the connector to see if motor works or if you are actually getting any voltage on the cable.
We need to know wire colures to do this.

Though going back to your 03 error code if it is phase wire & controller has a fault try a simple test.
With everything connected (no power on) turn the wheel backwards, it should rotate quite easily with some motor noise.
If resistance is hard (wheel not very free) disconnect the controller from motor, if wheel frees up going backwards then a mosfet will be faulty.

 

[Slartibartfast]

ebikes direct sell these new, could they help you?

 

[vfr400]

Remove the battery and check that the two plungers on the battery base move properly against their springs. Grease them while you're there. If there's nothing wrong with them, it might be worth checking them on the inside in case the nut that holds the wire on has come loose. There's a little cover thats held on with 2 screws to remove to get at them, easier if you remove the whole thing from the frame so you can tilt it.

 

[Ricksdetrix]

The back wheel spins free and makes motor noise like you said, how can I see if power is transferred through the wire to the LED screen? It's a 5 pin connector like in the picture. The wire going to the motor has a hub for a connector but it's too stiff to disconnect, though the motor seems fine. The springs were a little stiff but seemed to still move as they should and one of then nuts was a little loose so I tightened it but no luck.

I'll give ebikes a call and see what they say, it seems like it's the wire going up to the display/controller however I bought the bike second hand so I'm not sure if they'll help.

 

[Nealh]

The julet are not easy to test as you need to know the pin layout.
All I know is you have B+, Gnd, ignition lock (on/off)tx /rx (comms).
The controller may be fried or faulty.

I saw the same today when Pedelecer John turned up with his DIY kit Brompton hub and controller etc not working. The hub rotated ok in the axis but a dead lcd screen after I hooked up a battery to test. I swapped out lcd and trunk cable separately with my spares and nothing so only left controller. I found my unused Yose 36v controller and it all worked except the PAS. It only worked fleetingly twice on PAS but was fine on throttle, so the PAS wasn't very good and most likely had an intermittent wire issue. The kit was all julet and is a pain to sus out the wiring order , ok if you have all day to carry out a continuation check by probing julet pin outs and the pcb of the controller then you have to draw out the pin out layout and note the function/colour of each pin.
One day I will do this for reference but it is a pain to have to do.
The jst connector controllers are easy as you can clearly see and know the pin outs.

 

[Ricksdetrix]

SOLVED!

The wire was dodgy, ordered a replacement from E-bikes (£40!!!) and swapped them out. Unfortunately it's built like it wouldn't need to be replaced so I had to destroy quite a lot to take it off but everything running as it should now, not taken it for a long ride yet though so hopefully it stays that way.

Thanks for the help guys, only took about 2 minutes on the phone to the technician after the info you guys helped me gather to get to the source of the problem and order the part