Cube epo 2011 software update worth it ?

[kemi]

The first thing I noticed after the bike was delivered at the doorstep, was the 25 km/h speed limit. I had just ordered it online and had no idea what to expect. It was like driving into a wall, so for a long time my top speed was 25 km/h. It didn't really matter, since the timing of the stoplights meant that you'd have to stop no matter what. It was also very safe, since last minute speed burst to get over before a red light was out of the question. Then I tried a ebike with the Bosch motor, there was nothing holding one back. After that I found out that in order to get past 25 km/h on the Cube I had to turn the motor off using the computer. So I toggle a lot and I know there is a software update, but do any of you know if that update fix the problem ?

 

[Artstu]

I presume the Bosch bike you rode didn't have the 25 km/h limit? perhaps it was a 350w S-class bike? I've seen mention of software updates increasing battery wh from the 280 ish to the newer 300 wh, no idea how that works. It must be possible to adjust the 25 km/h limit, but unlikely with a simple firmware update.

Edit, actually I made the assumption that the Cube was a Bosch powered bike too, but it isn't is it.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The first thing I noticed after the bike was delivered at the doorstep, was the 25 km/h speed limit. I had just ordered it online and had no idea what to expect. It was like driving into a wall, so for a long time my top speed was 25 km/h. It didn't really matter, since the timing of the stoplights meant that you'd have to stop no matter what. It was also very safe, since last minute speed burst to get over before a red light was out of the question. Then I tried a ebike with the Bosch motor, there was nothing holding one back. After that I found out that in order to get past 25 km/h on the Cube I had to turn the motor off using the computer. So I toggle a lot and I know there is a software update, but do any of you know if that update fix the problem ?

This "hitting the wall" problem happens on many bikes with a direct drive motor and regen. Bosch motors have a free-wheel so you can pedal past the motor speed, and they don't have regen.

I don't know how much difference your software update would make, but if you have the option to switch off regen completely (before or after update), then it should be a lot better.

 

[kemi]

I presume the Bosch bike you rode didn't have the 25 km/h limit? perhaps it was a 350w S-class bike? I've seen mention of software updates increasing battery wh from the 280 ish to the newer 300 wh, no idea how that works. It must be possible to adjust the 25 km/h limit, but unlikely with a simple firmware update.

Edit, actually I made the assumption that the Cube was a Bosch powered bike too, but it isn't is it.

I haven't been able to find anyone in Denmark willing to sell pedelecs 45, because of all the rules and regulations surrounding that type. So it was pedelecs 25. Regarding the update to the battery computer you mentioned, then that makes sense. Some battery type are not to happy about being totally depleted, so the computer holds a threshold. If they initially set this value to high, you would get extra capacity if it were lowered. In my case, the manual says that if I deplete mine completely I won't be able to charge it again and it would have to go back to the factory.

The bike has a motor in the rearwheel hub. The motor is made by GoSwissDrive.

 

[kemi]

This "hitting the wall" problem happens on many bikes with a direct drive motor and regen. Bosch motors have a free-wheel so you can pedal past the motor speed, and they don't have regen.

I don't know how much difference your software update would make, but if you have the option to switch off regen completely (before or after update), then it should be a lot better.

I actually have five modes to chose from on the computer(regen off eco normal power). I have tried regen, but I can't feel any added drag. The mode that I use most of the time is normal. And if I look at my battery level, when I am toggle driving(off <-> normal), I can see that I use less power then before.

About the software update, then my hope is to get rid of whatever function that causes this huge resistance above 25 km/h, so I won't have to toggle all the time. If I was totally blue eyed, I would hope that the update would make the hub behave like a normal rear wheel above 25 km/h. The resistance in this wheel is huge, even with the motor off. If I lift the bike off the floor and give the wheel a firm push with my hand, I can't even make it turn around once. It would be obvious to any, to use assistance above 25 km/h to help compensate for the mechanics of such a type of wheel. But of cause that is against the law.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I actually have five modes to chose from on the computer(regen off eco normal power). I have tried regen, but I can't feel any added drag. The mode that I use most of the time is normal. And if I look at my battery level, when I am toggle driving(off <-> normal), I can see that I use less power then before.

About the software update, then my hope is to get rid of whatever function that causes this huge resistance above 25 km/h, so I won't have to toggle all the time. If I was totally blue eyed, I would hope that the update would make the hub behave like a normal rear wheel above 25 km/h. The resistance in this wheel is huge, even with the motor off. If I lift the bike off the floor and give the wheel a firm push with my hand, I can't even make it turn around once. It would be obvious to any, to use assistance above 25 km/h to help compensate for the mechanics of such a type of wheel. But of cause that is against the law.

The resistance comes from the regen. Is it possible to switch the regen off by any setting? If so, switch it off (the regen) completely if you want to go faster.

 

[kemi]

The resistance comes from the regen. Is it possible to switch the regen off by any setting? If so, switch it off (the regen) completely if you want to go faster.

No I only have the five modes. So if I wan't regen, then I would have to chose that mode. I don't have a on off next to the regen mode. Under normal mode there should be no regen, it should just let you go when you get over 25 Km/h, like the bosch. Besides when I chose normal mode it still eats my battery when I hit 25+ Km/h, not the other way around and then I wouldn't call it regen.

 

[Croxden]

The Cube has the same motor as the Storck Raddar only not quite as good. I had a struggle over the 25 mark so the Storck went off my hit list, as did the Cube

 

[kemi]

The Cube has the same motor as the Storck Raddar only not quite as good. I had a struggle over the 25 mark so the Storck went off my hit list, as did the Cube

My motor is from 2011 and since then they have made modifications. One of the modifications is that the computer now uses a wire and has more modes. Did you try a model with a computer connected to a wire or was it wireless ?

 

[Croxden]

My motor is from 2011 and since then they have made modifications. One of the modifications is that the computer now uses a wire and has more modes. Did you try a model with a computer connected to a wire or was it wireless ?

Sorry, I have no idea. I just enjoyed the ride till I tried to catch a lycra clad blur and failed.
It was only two months ago so ought to be a modern bit of kit.

 

[kemi]

Sorry, I have no idea. I just enjoyed the ride till I tried to catch a lycra clad blur and failed.
It was only two months ago so ought to be a modern bit of kit.

Just watched this video Storck RADDAR Pedelec bicycles - YouTube. 2 minutes in is where it gets interresting. The speaker says that the battery is collecting energy even when the system is switched off. So it would seem that one are producing power no matter what. In the new system they have 3 different regeneration modes, maybe in the old system they spread them over eco normal and power. There is no way I can beat the motor in normal, but maybe in eco mode.

I also ride on a stretch with a lot of cyclist, that know what they are doing and there is no way I can keep up with them on this bike. On a normal cheap bike I have a chance and sad to say it makes me feel stupid to sit on a bike that cost 2100£ and getting my ass kicked. But hey that just me

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I would have thought that the regen would be higher in eco mode than in power mode, so try power mode.

 

[kemi]

I would have thought that the regen would be higher in eco mode than in power mode, so try power mode.

Did do some tests to see if eco or power would be better. Unfortunately they are not. I get the same result as when I am in normal. Did manage to find this video : Software Einstellungen Specialized TURBO S Pedelec m. Go SwissDrive 250-900 Watt Motor - YouTube . There are some settings that I don't have access to. I have tried to ask around, but so far no luck. Just wrote a email to Cube about the problem. In the meanwhile I get to adhere to Cubes definition of a Pedelecs 25, namely that cyclists shouldn't go faster then 25 Km/h. Not what I imagined when I bought the bike, I thought it would augment me.

 

[mr_chompers]

I am trying to figure out if my swissdrive has this problem. I was able to get up to 44kmh this morning going downhill, and I can routinely get above 30kmh on flats. I have the computer shown on the Swissdrive website, and the settings go -3 -2 -1 0 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5. The minus settings being regen, 0 being nothing, and then the +s all power assist. I tend to use +3 or 4 but have not had it very long. It does feel more difficult above 28kmh, but I cannot really tell if it is just how much more difficult it is to pedal completely on my own once the power has kicked out, or if there is some resistance coming from the wheel.

Any advice on how I can figure it out? Is it completely impossible for you to break 30kmh? Is it just a slight drag feel, or a literal brick wall?

 

[kemi]

I am trying to figure out if my swissdrive has this problem. I was able to get up to 44kmh this morning going downhill, and I can routinely get above 30kmh on flats. I have the computer shown on the Swissdrive website, and the settings go -3 -2 -1 0 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5. The minus settings being regen, 0 being nothing, and then the +s all power assist. I tend to use +3 or 4 but have not had it very long. It does feel more difficult above 28kmh, but I cannot really tell if it is just how much more difficult it is to pedal completely on my own once the power has kicked out, or if there is some resistance coming from the wheel.

Any advice on how I can figure it out? Is it completely impossible for you to break 30kmh? Is it just a slight drag feel, or a literal brick wall?

First of all you have a newer version of the wheel, so bear that in mind.
When in normal(+3) and going slightly down(Denmark pancake flat), I can hit 40+. So no problem. When in normal and on a flat stretch with no wind to speak off, I really have to hammer to get to 30+. For the same effort with the motor off I am doing 40+. A simple test would be to do the same as I did above. So drive the bike in +3 and when you feel it is getting hard, put it in 0. In my case, I can clearly feel the resistance going away.


How much did the wheel system cost ?
You bought it locally, do the shop have the necessary kit to software upgrade the wheel ?

Another interesting test in you case could be to drain some of the battery to say one bar and then put the bike on a stationary trainer without the roller engaged and a setting of -3. Then jump on, just to see what it would take to get one bar back. All the things that I have read about regeneration say it's not worth it, the conversion rate is just to poor.

 

[mr_chompers]

I will try that test, good idea.

The system cost 195,000 ISK, installation included. I am not sure if they have the software to upgrade the wheel. Keep in mind the battery I got is different, it is a 36v 12.4Ah, vs the OEM was only 10Ah. Also since it was so new, they gave me a 5Ah charger for that cost, when normally it would come with a 2Ah charger.

 

[mr_chompers]

Ok, test done, seems my wheel does not have this regen function, which is what I suspected actually. When I get up to 30kmh+ turning the computer down to 0, or even off, has no effect. What I was thinking was resistance before, was just how difficult it feels to pedal normally after the power assist is gone.

I also put it into the negatives to really feel how the resistance feels, and even at -1, the feeling of drag was unmistakable, it is definitely not doing that in the positive numbers.

Good news for me, but I guess that is bad news for you. So weird that such an expensive bike has such a silly function built in.