Hi I have a cyclamatic plus 36v older type bike. I am getting intermittent cutting out as I ride ofi stop turn off and pull the battery out and in it will sometimes start again. I have checked the wiring as best I can and all seems ok pretty sure it’s not the battery. Thought maybe it could be the controller. Although the controller says 24 v I have been running a 36v battery on it for over a year with no problems. If anyone can shed some light on this I would be grateful also any ideas as to where I can get a replacement controller. Thanks
Cyclamatic Power cutting out
- Thread starter Wanderer
- Start date
Look at the LEDs on your throttle. If they go off or right down when the motor cuts, it's the battery. If they hold steady, it's a connection problem or badly adjusted pedal sensor. Are you using the pedal sensor, throttle or both? Does it cut out with both?
Thanks I’m using both at times and it still goes off leds stay on so I think like you it’s a connection problem or maybe the controller?
Are you absolutely sure that the lights dont go off while the motor cuts, then come on again. If they do, try re-soldering the wires on the back of the key switch inside the top of the battery. They sometimes have dry joints that break down under full power. Use plenty of heat to make sure that the solder fuses. The cause is soldering too fast in the factory.
If the lights definitely hold steady, check that the connectors are crimped nice and tight on the three thick motor wires. Also, some versions have a connector on the chainstay about 10" from the axle. Pull it apart and push it back together. You must push it all the way to the marked line, not just until it's tight.
If the lights definitely hold steady, check that the connectors are crimped nice and tight on the three thick motor wires. Also, some versions have a connector on the chainstay about 10" from the axle. Pull it apart and push it back together. You must push it all the way to the marked line, not just until it's tight.
Controllers either work or not. They're all solid state, so nothing to break down. The only faults I've ever seen are blown MOSFETs, which stop them dead, melted tracks from running too much current, other blown parts from connecting the wrong way round, and blown 5v regulator from a short on the 5v somewhere. I can't think of any problem that would cause one to randomly cut out.
Unplug your brake connectors and see if that sorts it.
Hi tried the brake connectors but no joy, I don’t think the fault is down in the wiring loom cleaned and tightened up the main wires. The handlebar indicator power light case gets a bit warm but I don’t think that would affect as it still won’t work while peddling. Will have a look though. Could the fuses make a difference or would they just blow and need replacing? Haven’t taken the top off the battery as was a bit concerned I could get it back on However if nothing else works will have a look
Regards
Regards
Well after many tries think the problem is with the throttle on the handlebars took it apart and the little magnet sensor dropped off and there was a wire floating around not sure from where. The upshot is that when I put it back together the throttle didn’t work but the pedal sensors did so at least I can use the bike. Anyone any ideas on where I could buy a new throttle? Looks like there are 6 wires.
Attachments
That style of Wuxing throttle isn't used much anymore. This matches the one you have, but the connectors may not match, so some cutting /soldering/joining may be required.
This one looks like it prob. has the same connectors as yours.
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You can check your connectors on the controller. You could use any 3 wire throttle.
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You can use any throttle you want because they all work the same. You can buy one that looks identical to the Cyclamatic one, but it will have different wiring. IIRC, the switch on the Cyclamatic's throttle is wired internally to switch off the 5v to both the throttle and the pedal sensor. That's why the pedal sensor's 5v wire comes from the throttle instead of the controller.
In other words, whichever throttle you get, you will have to do some wiring.
You should replace the throttle with one that has some sort of battery indication. You can get one with a switch as well, but you can also use a separate switch.
Tell us which one you choose, and we will be able to tell you how to wire it.
In other words, whichever throttle you get, you will have to do some wiring.
You should replace the throttle with one that has some sort of battery indication. You can get one with a switch as well, but you can also use a separate switch.
Tell us which one you choose, and we will be able to tell you how to wire it.
If you have a 36v battery, you get a 36v throttle. If you have a 24v battery, you bet a 24v one. The only difference is when the LEDs go out.
As I already said, the wires won't be the same on any throttle because the Cyclamatic has special wiring. Only a genuine Cyclamatic one will be the same. Look at the connectors in the picture above. You can see that they're different. Whichever throttle you get, you'll have to do some wiring.
As I already said, the wires won't be the same on any throttle because the Cyclamatic has special wiring. Only a genuine Cyclamatic one will be the same. Look at the connectors in the picture above. You can see that they're different. Whichever throttle you get, you'll have to do some wiring.
It all depends if you have the confidence/skill to carry out the work necessary on the cheaper one, if not then it's £30 well spent.
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