cyclamatic problems

[Garymac]

hi I've aquired a cyclamatic power plus according to manual its a 2014 model but it's previous owner has given up on it.
I took a chance and bought a charger which seems to have successfully charged the battery (leds on battery all light up) however no leds at handlebar switch)
I was getting 24v at ecu input so thought ecu might be faulty so bought one of ebay but having no success getting handlebar leds to light (some of the connectors on ecu different so a bit of twiddling reqd)
I have tried emailing sports hq on a couple of occasions regarding getting a like for like replacement but have never received a reply, I phoned them and the guy assured me they did spares and would forward my details to spares/repairs dept and they would get back to me again no further contact.2 questions really: 1) am I wasting my time chasing sports hq? 2) any suggestions where to look for a replacement controller preferably an ebike repairer who I could actually talk to and explain or send picture of old controller too as none of the ones pictured on ebay or amazon seem to have the same configuration of connectors.
It seems a shame to scrap what is a reasonable condition bike without trying/spending a sensible amount to try to resurrect it.Any input greatly appreciated Cheers Gary

 

[Alan Quay]

Post a pic on here of your controller so we can help.

If I recall correctly the cyclamatic is a 24v Brushless motor, so any brushless controller should work.

Do you have a digital multi meter? If not you should get one from Screwfix/toolstation or eBay for about £5.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I doubt that there's anything wrong with the Cyclamatic controller. The lights on the throttle are powered by a wire that's connected more or less direct to the battery. Everything can work without any power to those lights, but if they're not on, it implies that the battery isn't connected to the controller.

Here's a wiring schematic. It's the yellow wire to the throttle that carries the battery voltage for the LEDs. The red green and black wires are for the throttle and they're completely independent. The two-wire connector (red and black) that the yellow wire is connected to should have battery voltage on it (29v fully charged). If it hasn't, there's something wrong with the battery connections:

 

[Garymac]

I doubt that there's anything wrong with the Cyclamatic controller. The lights on the throttle are powered by a wire that's connected more or less direct to the battery. Everything can work without any power to those lights, but if they're not on, it implies that the battery isn't connected to the controller.

Here's a wiring schematic. It's the yellow wire to the throttle that carries the battery voltage for the LEDs. The red green and black wires are for the throttle and they're completely independent. The two-wire connector (red and black) that the yellow wire is connected to should have battery voltage on it (29v fully charged). If it hasn't, there's something wrong with the battery connections:

 

[Garymac]

Hi d8veh have checked all connections on original controller match the diagram ,I am getting 29v across red/black from battery but when I connect controller (with all wires unplugged)I am only getting 9v across red/black feed and also only getting 9v on the red black connector that connects to yellow to throttle, any suggestions

 

[Garymac]

these are pictures of new and old controllers , new is slightly larger and has a web I will need to remove to get it in aperture if I am to use it, as I said before many of the connectors are different sometimes male instead of female etc. if any one can tell me where to source a like for like of the original it would be a better proposition not only for ease of wiring but space issue as its going to be a tight squeeze.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Your new controller has an ignition wire. You know it needs to be connected to a battery positive for the controller to be activated?

When you connect it, check that the voltage doesn't drop down again.

 

[Fordulike]

Battery looks like it's outputting a good voltage, so I would suspect the battery contacts. The battery docking design is poor, and allows for a lot of vertical movement of the battery whilst riding. This causes the contacts of the battery to open up, creating electrical resistance at the point of contact with the docking prongs.

I'm not saying this is definitely the problem, but I had battery contact problems when I owned one. Cleaning the contacts with a cotton bud dipped in electrical cleaner, and squeezing the battery contacts slightly inwards, solved the issue of thinking my battery had died.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The battery can also let go at the key switch as soon as you connect anything. There's lots of possibilities at the moment, but many they can be eliminated one by one by doing logical tests.

 

[Sam.Mackinnon]

hi I've aquired a cyclamatic power plus according to manual its a 2014 model but it's previous owner has given up on it.
I took a chance and bought a charger which seems to have successfully charged the battery (leds on battery all light up) however no leds at handlebar switch)
I was getting 24v at ecu input so thought ecu might be faulty so bought one of ebay but having no success getting handlebar leds to light (some of the connectors on ecu different so a bit of twiddling reqd)
I have tried emailing sports hq on a couple of occasions regarding getting a like for like replacement but have never received a reply, I phoned them and the guy assured me they did spares and would forward my details to spares/repairs dept and they would get back to me again no further contact.2 questions really: 1) am I wasting my time chasing sports hq? 2) any suggestions where to look for a replacement controller preferably an ebike repairer who I could actually talk to and explain or send picture of old controller too as none of the ones pictured on ebay or amazon seem to have the same configuration of connectors.
It seems a shame to scrap what is a reasonable condition bike without trying/spending a sensible amount to try to resurrect it.Any input greatly appreciated Cheers Gary

I have just inherited the Cyclamatic Power Plus. However, struggling with charging. If they're a contact number for the company?

 

[saneagle]

I have just inherited the Cyclamatic Power Plus. However, struggling with charging. If they're a contact number for the company?

We know more about them than they do. If you have a question ask us.

 

[Sam.Mackinnon]

We know more about them than they do. If you have a question ask us.

If the battery won't hold charge, is there anywhere you can get a replacement for a reasonable price?

 

[saneagle]

If the battery won't hold charge, is there anywhere you can get a replacement for a reasonable price?

Yes. Ebay, Amazon, Aliexpress. You look for a 24v silver fish battery. The number of Ah doesn't matter.

 

[Sam.Mackinnon]

Yes. Ebay, Amazon, Aliexpress. You look for a 24v silver fish battery. The number of Ah doesn't matter.

Cheers. Do the bikes have any real value of I did it up to sell?

 

[saneagle]

Cheers. Do the bikes have any real value of I did it up to sell?

They work pretty well, especially if you get a 36v battery and controller for it. There's nothing wrong with Cyclamatics. They're sturdy bikes that should last many years. The motor is installed, and it's a pretty good one. The control system is very basic - not up to the standard of modern ones. It works, and if you never tried anything else, you'dprobably be happy with it.

If it were my bike, I'd buy a a 36v battery for it and a 36v KT controller , LCD and speed sensor. If you don't like soldering, buy a throttle and pedal sensor too. That would make it a much better bike with more power, a decent amount of speed and a much better control system. for around £230 total.

The Cyclamatic Power Plus will run with a 36v battery without changing anything else, so you could do it in two stages if you wanted. At 36v, the battery indicator lights on the throttle will be on all the time, so you won't know when your battery is running down, which is not going to be very convenient. You can fit your own battery indicator lights or a voltmeter.

One other thing: When you change the controller to a different one, the pedal sensor works backwards, so you have to take the magnet disc off and flip it over.

With a new 36v battery and controller, the bike would be worth about £350 to sell. With just a new 24v battery and fully working, probably around £300 if it good condition.

It's a shame you've already spent money on it because it has been wasted. Before spending money on any non-functioning ebike, you must find out what's wrong with it first by testing. Motors rarely go wrong. If anybody is thinking about fixing up an old ebike that's in good condition, but doesn't work, you should always be thinking in terms of around £230 for new battery and control system as long as it has standard parts. If it has a bespoke battery, forget it.