Cyclotricity 250w front hub, what is it and what would be better?

Clive Belfield

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Oct 9, 2019
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I'm not really the right person to ask about ready made packs, as I build my own. The only seller I have personal experience with is Yose Power from whom I bought a battery for a friends bike last year. I opened it up and it was well constructed with LG MH1 cells as advertised. They ship from the EU. Maybe start a new thread asking all members for advise.
Thanks wheeliepete, appreciate your comments.
 

vfr400

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Really helpful post, thank you so much. Do I need to use a throttle to use the extra power?
When you solder the shunt, it tricks the CPU into thinking there's less current flowing than what is, so it gives more current in every setting, whether you use a throttle or not.

The watts display will also be proportionally incorrect.
 
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niggle

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First pic is the controller from my bike, second is from my wife's bike. The marks on the piece of card behind the shunt correspond to the extra solder I added, black for the first one and red for the second one (I put the card back in for the photos hence you see both sets of marks in both photos). As you can see there was already some solder on both shunts, a bit more on the first than on the second (and at opposite ends). I followed the 20% extra mantra for both, resulting in about 2mm more solder on first shunt and 3mm on the second one.
33085
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As I said, my soldering skills are 'iffy'... I have only ridden the bike once since, on only moderate gradients (I was not up for going on a detour in the p1$$1ng down rain just to find some hills TBH) but it does seem to hold speed a bit better going up hill. I will know more tomorrow when I have to go into town and back up a long drag plus a short sharp 20% gradient.
 

vfr400

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It looks about right, though I haven't see as much solder on a shunt from the factory as the first one before.
 

niggle

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It looks about right, though I haven't see as much solder on a shunt from the factory as the first one before.
I didn't know what to expect and it was the first one I opened, so I was surprised when I opened the second one and it had rather less. Are they soldered individually to get just the right Amps?
 

niggle

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OK so tried it on some proper hills, it is an improvement and gets me up a specific hill in 1 gear higher than previously. I guess this is all I can expect from a 250W hub motor and only a mid drive would be a significant improvement, or an illegal higher Watt hub of course.
 

niggle

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Mind you the battery has been subject to criticism. Unfortunately I have had it since early August so too long to send it back under the 30 days returns, so would I get an improvement by buying this https://www.yosepower.com/en/product/Original-LG-Cell-36V10.4Ah/36V12.8AH-Lithium-ion-Battery-Electric-Bicycle-Bottle-New-Black-DIY-69.html ? It does have the same frame mount and connection so I could carry the old one as a range extender, which would be handy, but how can I tell what my current battery is putting out to get a comparison? The current battery is claimed to have 20A max current same as the Yose Power one...
 

vfr400

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You'd need a battery that can give at least 25 amps and a 22 amp controller to see a significant difference.
 

vfr400

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So what battery can give 25A? Can't seem to find anything to buy complete.
Here's one. Search for 36v 500w battery, 750w battery 1000w battery, etc, then check the spec.

Your controller is in the your battery receiver, so if you use a different battery, you'll need a separate controller and have to relocate it somewhere. BMSBattery sell various batteries with integrated controllers. this one has a 20 amp controller. It's quite expensive by the time you add on shipping cost and duty.
 
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niggle

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OK thanks so if it says "Discharge Standard current:10A-13A, Discharge Max current:28A-30A" that's not going to do, presuming the 'standard' is the continuous?

EDIT what about going 48V?

EDIT 2 confused re the 'controller' in my 'battery receiver', this is not the controller that I soldered the shunt in previously?
 
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vfr400

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OK thanks so if it says "Discharge Standard current:10A-13A, Discharge Max current:28A-30A" that's not going to do, presuming the 'standard' is the continuous?

EDIT what about going 48V?

EDIT 2 confused re the 'controller' in my 'battery receiver', this is not the controller that I soldered the shunt in previously?
Sorry about, I got mixed up dealing with all the different guys with similar bikes and systems.
what says, "Discharge Standard current:10A-13A, Discharge Max current:28A-30A" ? The ones I linked say 25A and 20A continuous.

Some MXUS motors don't respond well to over-volting. I can't say for sure whether that applies to yours.
 
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niggle

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Sorry about, I got mixed up dealing with all the different guys with similar bikes and systems.
what says, "Discharge Standard current:10A-13A, Discharge Max current:28A-30A" ? The one I linked says 20A continuous.
No it is my fault, I was looking at 36V 500w batteries and found this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36V-10AH-350W-500W-HaiLong-Lithium-Li-ion-Pack-E-Bike-Battery-Electric-Bicycle/383150842207?hash=item593591e15f:g:f3cAAOSwcq5de7Mr to compare with the one you linked, as an example of what will not work...

I think I get it re battery output now, but less clear re the 'controller' in my 'battery receiver', this is not the KT controller that I soldered the shunt in previously? My battery is the bottle type with just a locking bracket mount, with a line that screws in at the bottom and connects to the KT controller.
 
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vfr400

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but less clear re the 'controller' in my 'battery receiver', this is not the KT controller that I soldered the shunt in previously? My battery is the bottle type with just a locking bracket mount, with a line that screws in at the bottom and connects to the KT controller.
That's the bit where I got mixed up. You're only dealing with one problem, but I'm dealing with about six at a time. The other guys have the Greenedge CS2 that has the controller in the battery. You have the Cyclotricity with the separate controller in a box.
 

niggle

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That's the bit where I got mixed up. You're only dealing with one problem, but I'm dealing with about six at a time. The other guys have the Greenedge CS2 that has the controller in the battery. You have the Cyclotricity with the separate controller in a box.
Ah OK, so I would be looking to replace the controller with something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KT-22A-Sine-Wave-36V-48V-500W-Electric-Controller-Waterproof-9-Tube-For-Bike/163877746612?hash=item2627dff7b4:g:YiAAAOSw1V9dikAu

This battery says "Discharge Standard current:25A" but is that believable at the price?
 

sjpt

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I always worry about statements like 'never worry about our aftersale service'. I always fear it means 'don't worry, we haven't got any aftersale service'?
 

niggle

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I think the Cyclotricity has block-type connectors, which I prefer, in which case one like this.
It's got julet connectors, which was one reason that I picked the one I did. Maybe Cyclotricity have updated their cabling recently.
What about the battery I found. Only 10Ah but I don't think I need more and I like that you save £15 if you don't want another identical charger to the one I have already. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36V-10Ah-500W-Downtube-Lithium-Li-ion-Battery-Pack-E-Bike-Electric-Bicycle-Motor/383150878214?hash=item5935926e06:m:mGZvyZKZh0YO0ox9dfyZReg