electric moped fault

soundwave

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paint cracks are nothing to worry about tho because the frame is like that and will flex well watch the vid.
 

guerney

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paint cracks are nothing to worry about tho because the frame is like that and will flex well watch the vid.
Glue falls to pieces eventually... This is why I want an everlasting (?) titanium frame - my mate's got one, says it flexes providing extra shock absorbtion. He's all giddy about it. I'll try his out sometime, then I might gamble on one of those cheapo no-name AliExpress titanium MTB frames... I've read that component compatibility can be restrictive for some of them.
 

billyboya

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How dare you both take over my post. I have sent out my fee for using my space.

Cash payment only please

counting-money-trouble.gif
 
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Plas man

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Gentlemen please no fighting this is a family forum , the winner gets to push start the Erider moped ;)
 

billyboya

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Dam this *********** Moped (bad language ), now as I am checking for any loose wires as have removed the dash and also headlamp covers. there is no power again now. yet before it was ok ignition came on and dash display. I've checked fuse, checked wires. Battery says 54V so that's fine. more ******* ( Bad Language ) I'm glad now I have decided to sell the bloody thing. just don't make sense to me.

giphy.gif
 

Nealh

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Check power is going into the controller and out. It may be a wire break inside the outer covering in which case one will need to try and track the culprit down or a bad solder joint.
One will have to carry out lots of wire testing.

The controller may be faulty, swap your spare one to see if it is the case.
 

billyboya

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Check power is going into the controller and out. It may be a wire break inside the outer covering in which case one will need to try and track the culprit down or a bad solder joint.
One will have to carry out lots of wire testing.

The controller may be faulty, swap your spare one to see if it is the case.

Hi again Nealh, I bet you thought you heard the last from me regarding the erider moped PMSL Well IM BACK PMSL

giphy.gif


Yes I will do all that, But I've been sorting it all morning, so time to take a break now. will try again later, its not like i am in a hurry, as I cant sell it until its fixed. If I remember from before I couldn't get that other controller to go. But it may have been because the previous owner. wired the motor wrong as if you remember he added another cable to existing one.

I should have taken notice of a few here who said get rid of it. from day one.
 

billyboya

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I am a bit confused with this problem on moped. as like I said the other day, I was 500 yards from home and power just went, its defo not the battery, as checked that and its at 54V. plus green light came on charger.

so I left moped over night in my shed, and it wasn't until next day, my brother came to help me up stairs to my flat, 2 lots stairs, its np to take it back down as I go backwards, so its like 1 step brake etc etc. anyway when we got moped into my flat, I said to brother, I will just see if it go, but doubt it would. and bugger me ignition came on, so brother says it could have been a loose wire, when we was lumping it up stairs.

so after he went I decided to remove front cover around display, also removed front headlamp cover too, so I can see if any wires, was loose. which I couldn't, I mean I shook wires etc each at a time while battery was connected. but now sods law. ignition don't come on at all, again no power. so I was thinking, if it was the controller how comes it worked when we got moped into my flat.

Nealth what do I place multi meter probes on now, to test power, say at ignition. I know I place it on 200v DC on meter. Also I dont understand where you mean here
It may be a wire break inside the outer covering
Also before I can try this other controller, what's name of this white plug called now, which i have circled, as I need to change those in no 1 for 2 white connecters, as I have now changed the phase and throttle connections to match my wiring, but in this image below, which I have numbered the wires etc. 1 to 8 if you look at no 1 x 2 wires they are single, and must have those white plugs on each end to match mine on the moped. I think they go to display and brake at the front of moped, from me testing them before.

so no 1 = display + brake 2= 5 sensor wires to motor. 3 = throttle. 4= 2 plugs to alarm. 5 = 3 phase wires to motor. 6 = ignition (orange) red black power 7 = 2 test wires 8 = probably PA but not used

IMG_2322.jpg



IMG_2323.JPG
 
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Plas man

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I think the white wires No 7 are the 15 mph limiter when connected ? Other than wires I have not a clue . Hope you sort it soon .
 

Nealh

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The white connector is a automotive one, I don't know the exact number for a two wire one so you will have to do the searching yourself. The Hall wire one which is the same type but a 6 wire one is DJ7061 -2.8 -21 so my guess is you will need to search for dj7021-2.8.
 
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billyboya

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I think the white wires No 7 are the 15 mph limiter when connected ? Other than wires I have not a clue . Hope you sort it soon .

Yes they are as Nealh told me ages back. so I have learnt loads from him here. I've just opened another branch of Erider model 15 specialist's. HE HE But we closed atm until I sort mine.
 

billyboya

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The white connector is a automotive one, I don't know the exact number for atwo wire one so you will have to do the searching yourself. The Hall wire one which is the same type but a 6 wire one is DJ7061 -2.8 -21 so my guess is you will need to search for dj7021-2.8.
Hi Nealh will this be it

pins.jpg

It looks as if I am going to have to remove yet again ggrrgghhhhhh the seat part and also all the rear body work, as no way can you remove the controller. its jammed in there too tight. so Im hoping its not the controller. as its not easy removing all the body work

did you see what I said here below

Nealth what do I place multi meter probes on now, to test power, say at ignition. I know I place it on 200v DC on meter. Also I dont understand where you mean here
It may be a wire break inside the outer covering
 

Nealh

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Wiring is encased in an outer covering pvc or silicone etc ,etc, sometimes the inner wire can break causing an intermittent conection.
Ignition simply needs checking that power is arriving at the contacts so gnd to + input pin.

The fault also may be insdie the hub maybe a wire has broken off ?
 

guerney

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I don't trust crimps.

If it turns out to have been caused by a weak solder joint - maybe a hotter soldering iron, different flux or solder may be necessary? I use a cheap big and chunky £9.99 100W Silverline to solder thicker cables. At 100W you get good hot solder penetration. Hot and deep penetrating with solder is very satisfying.


...but there is also the a more precise looking 100W Silverline "Gun" type for about £17, which I haven't tried.

By way of example... good price, this seller's rating is a bit low:

 
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billyboya

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Wiring is encased in an outer covering pvc or silicone etc ,etc, sometimes the inner wire can break causing an intermittent conection.
Ignition simply needs checking that power is arriving at the contacts so gnd to + input pin.

The fault also may be insdie the hub maybe a wire has broken off ?
Dam I hope its not inside the hub, as it will mean taking off the wheel again, and removing motor, I personally don't think its a wire off inside motor. as how comes like i said before, after me and my brother lifted it up 2 flight stairs, to my flat so I can look at it. I said to my brother, Just going to see if it works, and bugger me the ignition came on and it ran, tried throttle on its stand all fine. its just since I removed from top indicator housing and also lower headlamp cover. and i have checked wires there all seem fine.

I've not as of yet done any tests on it as was going to try the new controller I bought. But now I have a slight problem, how can I tell on the new controller, those single 2 wires no ( 1 ) in post #69 above, which wire, out of those 2 go to display and other to brake lever at front. as on old controller. they are coloured from controller blue and yellow. blue plugs into a brown wire, yellow into a green wire. the brown and green obviously go to front of moped. I think 1 is for display and other go to brakes. but now on this new controller. the colours are pink, and a light blue.
 
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billyboya

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Aug 10, 2016
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I don't trust crimps.

If it turns out to have been caused by a weak solder joint - maybe a hotter soldering iron, different flux or solder may be necessary? I use a cheap big and chunky £9.99 100W Silverline to solder thicker cables. At 100W you get good hot solder penetration. Hot and deep penetrating with solder is very satisfying.


...but there is also the a more precise looking 100W Silverline "Gun" type for about £17, which I haven't tried.

By way of example... good price, this seller's rating is a bit low:

There's no problem with soldering irons I've got 4 all good ones. also I don't just crimp the connections on those white plugs I will add a bit of solder as well
 
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billyboya

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Aug 10, 2016
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Wiring is encased in an outer covering pvc or silicone etc ,etc, sometimes the inner wire can break causing an intermittent conection.
Ignition simply needs checking that power is arriving at the contacts so gnd to + input pin.

The fault also may be insdie the hub maybe a wire has broken off ?
Can you help here Nealh, as Im a bit confused which wire go to where at number 1 in the diagram above in #69 post or will it do harm if its wrong way. as on this new controller the wire colours are different. I don't think it will harm anything if they wrong as if so I will just change them over

I've not as of yet done any tests on it as was going to try the new controller I bought. But now I have a slight problem, how can I tell on the new controller, those single 2 wires no ( 1 ) in post #69 above, which wire, out of those 2 go to display and other to brake lever at front. as on old controller. they are coloured from controller blue and yellow. blue plugs into a brown wire, yellow into a green wire. the brown and green obviously go to front of moped. I think 1 is for display and other go to brakes. but now on this new controller. the colours are pink, and a light blue
 

Nealh

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Best to see what voltage they put out, test each wire to any Gnd source to see what they read and if different one assumes display is high voltage and brake is low voltage. I would expect Blue to be display and Pink for brake.
 

billyboya

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Best to see what voltage they put out, test each wire to any Gnd source to see what they read and if different one assumes display is high voltage and brake is low voltage. I would expect Blue to be display and Pink for brake.
Well I have just fitted new controller, not joined up those 2 wires yet at no ( 1 ) as waiting for white connectors. fitted battery turned on ignition nothing at all. well sorry it read about 0.0.3.7v I maybe wrong there. I put multi meter on 200v DC, placed black probe to gnd. touched some metal on moped. red I touched on the middle nut

Im getting very close to calling a scrap merchant to collect this frigging moped.

What I'm really confused about is why did ignition come on when me and my brother 1st got it into my place all I have done is remove top front indicator housing, plus bottom headlamp housing, now all power has gone

I'm no hurry to fix moped, so will leave it today try another day

test.jpg



BTW Plas Man if you about don't suppose you got a wiring diagram when you bought your moped.
 
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