Expected lifetime of a BBS02

Gurnard

Pedelecer
Dec 30, 2015
35
4
49
Hello.
I have a Bafang BBS02 350W I was wondering what is the, average, expected lifetime of this motor, does anyone know?
How many miles/KMs before it might explode or fail :)
What is the most common failure? Drop in power or speed in reaction or?
 

Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
10,620
7,576
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
What is the most common failure?
1) controller
2) pawls for one way clutch
3) PAS sensor and/or magnet ring
4) LCD
5) speed sensor

If you want reliability, go for low power geared hub motors.
High speed kits have higher probability of snagging somewhere: more potholes, more vibrations, more miles.
 

Gurnard

Pedelecer
Dec 30, 2015
35
4
49
1) controller
2) pawls for one way clutch
3) PAS sensor and/or magnet ring
4) LCD
5) speed sensor
Thanks for the response and info.
What does it feel like when the pawls for the clutch or the magnet ring go? What is the impact to the riding? Basically how do I know if one of these things might be on the way out?
 

Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
10,620
7,576
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
What does it feel like when the pawls for the clutch or the magnet ring go?
if the pawls are chipped, they will slip when the motor kicks in, you will hear them.
If the magnet ring goes, the pedal assist becomes very intermittent while the throttle works perfectly.
They don't give any advanced warning before they go but the slippage of the pawls become quickly very noticeable after started.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hnl3

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
7,363
2,785
56
West Sx RH
My BBS01 350 has now surpassed 2700 miles, still going strong. In those miles I have stripped it down twice for a regrease as far as I dare go, replaced the fried controller once at 1600 miles. The new controller I have reprogrammed so hoping life is longer.The other issue has been the pas being a little intermittent, the magnet ring has cracked in a couple places meaning it needs a new drive shaft with ring attached. For now I have cleaned it all up and glued the magnet ring (pieces) in place and is working fine. Hall sensor/controller connection can throw up an error code (08) so needs all the silicone removing to ensure a good connection.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 11mat11

Gurnard

Pedelecer
Dec 30, 2015
35
4
49
@Nealh thanks for the info.

I have done about 2300 miles so far. I did strip it and grease it once. I did reprogram the controller at about 1000 miles so that it was more responsive but nothing too extreme. It seems ok so far but I am starting to feel a bit of stutter through pedaling when the motor first kicks in but it might just be the chain taking up the slack.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Life depends on how you treat it. They don't like getting wet. Some leaked directly into the controller, which in the worst case can cause spontaneous burning. I guess others get water in the throttle or up the motor shaft, which compromises the 5v, causing hall sensor malfunction and consequential mosfet blowing.

I would have said that the most common problem of the BBS02, apart from controllers, is the white nylon gear, like this one I'm presently fixing. it's probably not such a problem on the BBS01 because of the lower power. Bafang have improved it now, but the one below is the "improved" version:
20170731_111810.jpg
 

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,406
1,302
Tyne and Wear
BBS02, around 5,000 miles off the top of my head. Programmed for maximum power.

Replaced controller early on, but that was due to Bafang supplying controllers with inferior MOSFETs. Should no longer be an issue.

When I opened it up recently, the nylon gear was fine. Apart from a slightly noisy final drive, it appears to be still going strong and I don't go lightly on it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 11mat11 and J8519

Gurnard

Pedelecer
Dec 30, 2015
35
4
49
No. It's a BBS02. No need on one of them.
Hello thanks for the response and handy information. I did reprogram my controller to make it more responsive after changing gear/braking and also so that it does not drop so much power when paused (changing gear/braking).
This made a world of difference to the motor allowing me to ride a lot more dynamically through the city. Before it was only really any good a long rides in top gear with no interruptions (such as traffic, lights, junctions etc) which is not my commute (being through a city).

So personally I would recommend a reprogram on the BBS02 but it depends on the situation of the user as you suggest.
 

Deere John

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 13, 2015
494
535
41
EU
My BBS01 died today :(

Came about 3km before something in the internal gearing started to behave odd, rattling sound and it felt stiff and moved slower.

Problem disappeared when shutting off and pedal without motor.

Power on again and it continues, started to get worse quite soon. After a minute or so after trying various things it changed, less rattling sound, and not stiff. But no assist!

Feels like a gear started to become bad, and then after a short while, completely stripped.

Thats after a few months use. 2260 km (1400 miles) riding.

Seems easy to fix though, I wonder if you can make it without removing motor :)
https://electricbike-blog.com/2015/08/24/replacing-a-peanut-buttered-nylon-primary-reduction-gear-on-the-bbs02/
 

wheeliepete

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 28, 2016
1,220
391
55
Devon/Dorset
make it without removing motor
I'm not gonna say you can't, but it will be alot easier on a bench with a vice. If you need to remove the nylon gear, then the 3 screws that hold on the cover plate are normally crazy tight and need an impact driver or large PH3 to undo them. I think you would struggle with the motor in the frame.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deere John

Deere John

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 13, 2015
494
535
41
EU
Have now opened up, all gears is fine! Very strange this. But it was much water intrusion in the motor area. Maybe it was a short somewhere. Hall sensors or something, that prevented control to work as normal. Or there is some dirt in some gear. Actually the secondary reduction gear didn't move on first try but then it loosened up. Feels like some grain of sand there or something.

Would be interesting to remove crank shaft and big gear and see how it works with power on and throttle. Don't have that tool but will try with shaft there first.
 

Attachments

anotherkiwi

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2015
7,602
5,691
The European Union
Yuck! With luck a good clean and a re-grease you might get lucky.

Stay out of the puddles next time! :)
 

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,406
1,302
Tyne and Wear
Yeah, totally agree with anotherkiwi. Clean up and pack that bugger with some good quality grease such as AeroShell Grease 22.
 

Deere John

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 13, 2015
494
535
41
EU
Thanks for answers. Yes, I will, bought grease. Just waiting for the tool to arrive so I can remove secondary reduction gear.

I had put alot of grease in there in the beginning. But now it's mixed with rust and water :) doesn't seal so well there. But the motor and controller parts should be easier to seal. I bought this "make-your-own-gasket" thing so you can just apply that to the parts and that should seal it.
 

Kinninvie

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 5, 2013
888
399
Teesdale,England
I guess as you filled it with grease initially you didnt reseal the motor properly.
One of my BBS02s has over 8000 miles on it and goes through a ford where the water comes over the top of the motor at least once a month over the last 3 years and still runs perfectly.
The second one (on a different bike) has 3000 miles on and was opened last month for a regrease and no signs of water ingress in that one either.
 

Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
10,620
7,576
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
does anyone have any idea how to stop water getting in through the bottom bracket?
 

Advertisers