experimental battery idea has fried my controller!

tim25

Just Joined
Nov 21, 2020
3
0
Hi there,
After a failed attempt to use tool batteries with my carrera vengence e spec. I'm pretty sure I've fried the controller due to a wrong battery polarity mistake.
stupid error, however....im looking for the best way to get the bike going again,
It looks like I can possibly get a direct replacement for about £160 or i could install something different/better/cheaper?

I was thinking of replacing the controller as its dead, the display because its not very good. wondering if i can use the built in pedal assist or will have to replace that too ? would love to add walk assist and throttle for start ups,
Can any body recommend a good set that will make the conversion easier ? I have read a lot of the threads on here but not found a suitable recommendation, any ideas please?
The bike runs using the suntour hesc system and has 250w rear hub motor by Suntour with a 9 pin plug

I had been considering a 36V 17A KT Controller For 250W 350W Brushless Motor E-bike Electric Bicycle and a SW900 LCD Display Meter Control Panel 24/36/48V For E-Bike Electric Bicycle


many thanks

Tim
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
6,922
2,668
Basildon
A KT controller doesn't work with a SW900 LCD. You need a KT one, like the LCD3.

The KT 15A controller, just fits in the space where the Suntour one is if you get the version with waterproof connectors. If you want the 17A KT controller, it'll have to go in a tool-bag, either in the triangle or under the saddle. I prefer under the saddle. if you're going to put it in a bag or similar, the type with block connectors is the best because it's much easier to test for and diagnose any problems.
 

tim25

Just Joined
Nov 21, 2020
3
0
A KT controller doesn't work with a SW900 LCD. You need a KT one, like the LCD3.

The KT 15A controller, just fits in the space where the Suntour one is if you get the version with waterproof connectors. If you want the 17A KT controller, it'll have to go in a tool-bag, either in the triangle or under the saddle. I prefer under the saddle. if you're going to put it in a bag or similar, the type with block connectors is the best because it's much easier to test for and diagnose any problems.
Thanks for your reply

Yes, i got the display mixed up,(eyes boggled after eternity of internet searches)

I should have said Display KT-LCD3 , i believe it has a button you can use for walk assist.

the KT 15A sounds a better suggetion to me, if it fits in the space. Which looks quite small ! but I'm not averse to repositioning it a small bag if it was an advantage? what benefit might the 17A have over the 15A?
they both look equally challenging in terms of connector issues.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
6,922
2,668
Basildon
Thanks for your reply

Yes, i got the display mixed up,(eyes boggled after eternity of internet searches)

I should have said Display KT-LCD3 , i believe it has a button you can use for walk assist.

the KT 15A sounds a better suggetion to me, if it fits in the space. Which looks quite small ! but I'm not averse to repositioning it a small bag if it was an advantage? what benefit might the 17A have over the 15A?
they both look equally challenging in terms of connector issues.
A few days ago, a guy posted about his conversion with that controller with photograph/s. It would be much better to fit a throttle than use the walk-assist function.

You have to cut the motor cable somewhere and solder all the wires. I'd cut the connector off that's under the chain-stay and add the standard 9 -pin connector.
39414
 

tim25

Just Joined
Nov 21, 2020
3
0
Ah ok I would like to see that conversion with photos I will have a look in the conversion area.

im fine to cut the wires and solder less confident when it comes to diagnosing the correct colours as I doubt they match

was the link to show the Julei connectors Or to show the controller itself?

l
A few days ago, a guy posted about his conversion with that controller with photograph/s. It would be much better to fit a throttle than use the walk-assist function.

You have to cut the motor cable somewhere and solder all the wires. I'd cut the connector off that's under the chain-stay and add the standard 9 -pin connector.
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