ezee wiring and pedal sensor

piotrmacheta

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2009
316
0
Please can anyone help?
Last year I bought some left over ezee bits from 50cycles which included a wheel, controller and wiring. Today I decided that I would see if I could get it to work but ran into a problem. I connected the throttle (3 pin plug), battery and the wheel (3 wires and a 5 pin plug) to the controller and switched on and the controller red LED just flashed 5 times repeatedly and the throttle did nothing. I guess that maybe it is something to do with the only plug left (pedal sensor?) but I don't have anything to plug into it. This is a 6 pin plug with wire colours - yellow, red, black, blue, green, white in that order. I tried to short some of these together but still no joy. I found that by connecting red and white together it made the LED go bright red and stay on permanently.
Can someone tell me what I need to do to get the throttle working? Can I bypass the pedal sensor, do I need it? Also what voltage is it supposed to work on? I tried both 24v and 36v but effect is the same. The guys at 50cycles said I could ring them if I got stuck so they might be able to help too.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Peter
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
44,208
20,372
The six wire connector goes to the battery meter, brake cutouts and lighting where fitted.

However, the 5 flashes on the LED indicate "faulty throttle" so the connections could be the problem there. At one time the twistgrip throttle had a three wire connector, but later ones had a five wire connector since the light switch was on the twistgrip. The connections you have may be reversed therefore.

Have a look at this page on my Torq website and you'll see the diagnostics, and just below, a schematic of the bike's wiring:

eZee bike fault diagnosis
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
44,208
20,372
P.S. It's a 36 volt system, 31.5 volt lower cut-off, 44 volt upper cut-off.

The brake cutouts aren't needed, those wires can be left open circuit.

When the selector switch on the battery meter is left on the "throttle only" position, the pedelec sensor is out of circuit.
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
44,208
20,372
I've just checked out the wiring of the 6 way connector at the meter end for you, and here it is:

Black and Yellow: Throttle/pedelec switch, join together for throttle operation. The black is ground and also goes to the meter board when it's in circuit.

White-Red-Blue-Green: All go to the meter board for battery level metering and brake cutouts, lighting etc. You should be able to leave all those open circuit.

The red LED on the controller should come on and stay on when a DC supply between 32 and 43 volts is connected.
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piotrmacheta

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2009
316
0
Thanks for all the info. I still can't get it to work. I have both the 3 pin throttle and the 5 pin one but it's the 3 pin that is the right one as the guy had to get one specially from the workshop. I cut off the plug and soldered the throttle directly to the controller to avoid poor contacts. I joined black and yellow. It still flashes 5 times. I even cut the plug off the 5 pin throttle and saw that 3 wires were the red black yellow as in the3 pin controller and soldered these to the controller but still no joy. I have 3 controllers and tried one of the others and still same.
Any other ideas? You mention a battery meter but I don't seem to have one of these, is it required for operation?
Thanks again
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
44,208
20,372
I would have thought it would operate without the meter, but I can't be sure of that. The meter comes complete with the wiring harness that connects to the controller and with wiring extensions for the Brake cut-outs for the brake cutouts. You can see the outside of the meter with it's 3 coloured LEDs on that schematic on my webpage, and here's the inside appearance of it:



The rocker switch toggles between pedelec and throttle only, the white nylon plugs at 1 are the brake cutout connectors. I don't know how much a meter with harness would cost, but you could check with the current agents for eZee in the UK:

Cyclepoint contact page


Have you tried connecting that red and white together again, as well as connecting the yellow and black together that I advised? That might do the trick.
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piotrmacheta

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2009
316
0
Yep tried a few more things. I connected the red and white and the red light stays on fully but still no throttle response, I also connected yellow and black but this made no difference. I then tried the 2nd controller I got and also no response but I noticed that when I connected the red and white the red light does not come on. It still doesn't work though. I think I noticed that the light doesn't blink 5 times on one of the controllers when I connect the yellow and black but it is off.
Not sure what's going on but I suspect the controller but I will try the ezee suppliers.
I've given up now so thaks for your help, I'll let you know what I find out.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
44,208
20,372
Thanks Peter, I was also beginning to suspect those controllers. There were a number of them changed, so it's always possible that good and dud ones got mixed up, especially since 50cycles suffered a warehouse fire that disrupted everything at one point.
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Sector

Pedelecer
Mar 5, 2007
102
0
Leicestershire Le8
I've only just noticed this thread, or otherwise I could have jumped in earlier.

My Quando sounded like it was firing on three cylinders, particulalry at low speed. While looking for the fault I removed the handlebar unit with the three LEDs (the voltage indicator). When I did this I permanently linked the two wires that previously went to the "Pedelec" switch. so that it would always be in twistgrip mode. I also removed the installed lighting, because I prefer wiring simplicity, and anyway I like to use modern battery lights.

I disconnected the wires going to the crank speed sensor and removed the speed sensor.

The bike still ran, but with the same fault. From this I concluded that a good Ezee controller should work without the voltage indicator, and without the speed sensor, provided you are happy with twistgrip control. I never found out because the cost of a replacment ezee controller seemed rather high.

I bougyht an Ecrayzyman controller and substituted it in place of the Ezee controller and the bike now works fine. I still don't have a voltage indicator, pedelec sensor, pedelec switch, or installed lights, but I prefer it that way.
 

piotrmacheta

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2009
316
0
Just to update anyone still intersted. 50 mcyles weren't helpful and so I had one of the electrical guys at work have a look and he managed to fix the controller (yes it was broken) and we got the kit working. I have been testing it out with some old NiCd batteries I have and it's great provided you aren't in a hurry. I have got a bit frustrated now as I usually pedal at about 18 to 20mph and this kit only helps to about 16mph (fully charged 32 cell pack) and 12mph when it gets a bit flat! It's great up the hills mind.
Another question - I've seen a web link that says it can be de-restricted to 32kph - how do I do this?
And thanks again for all your help.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
44,208
20,372
Another question - I've seen a web link that says it can be de-restricted to 32kph - how do I do this?
I'm afraid you probably can't Peter. Their Torq 1 model had a motor internally geared for a 20" wheel but in the Torq it was in a 28" wheel, so it ran to as much as 22 mph/35 kph. It had a restrictor link on the controller to keep it down to the legal 15 mph/25 kph, so to derestrict it was a matter of leaving the link open circuit.

They also produced the F series bikes, Forza and Forte. These initially were capable of 20 mph/32kph and also had restrictor links, but later on they sometimes had controllers that only permitted 15 mph/25 kph and had no restrictor link.

Since you haven't wired in a restrictor link, your motor/controller combination is likely to be stuck at the speed you have, being one of the later ones.
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