Help! Freego Hawk motor runs whilst on stand with power switch on

eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
My wife's Freego Hawk motor runs without demand even when just sat on its bike stand. Motor kicks in intermittently.
The rear brake light glows dimly continuously once power is on.
I have disconnected the connector to the rear motor and the rear light still glows dimly. I have re-connected the rear motor connector and still same problem.
Er 4 at times on LCD display.
I have opened the box where wiring for the controller is held and many connecting wires.
The box controller area is clean and dry.
Any suggestions?
 

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eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
Hi vfr400, Yes I have just tried the disconnection of the throttle and the same result. Whilst on that tack I disconnected the rear brake electric cable and the same problem in that whilst on the stand with no demands the rear drive wheel kicks in to drive just for a short while each time and continues to drive forward at intermittent times. It may be worth noting even with the electric brake cable disconnected the rear brake light glowed dimly continuously.
Thanks for your reply and interest
Eddy
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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The flickering rear light to me indicates to a short somewhere, if not the wiring then inside the controller.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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My wild guess says tha you have water inside your LCD. That's the only logical thing that can affect both. Is the motor turning at 4 mph or faster?
 

eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
Thanks for your replies.
I tried disconnecting the cable to the LCD display but of course you cannot see if one has turned don the power.
I suspect not as the rear light was not illuminated and the motor did not run.
The motor only runs slowly, the LCD display showing 1 or 2 when it does its intermittent kicking in.

I did think that it could be a wiring insulation breakdown but I have not seen anywhere that looks suspect.

The bike has been kept dry for a few weeks now but we did cycle in heavy rain, back in December.
The controller is sealed and the cable entry glands look in good condition, with good sealant.
Thanks for helping with this
Eddy
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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You can run your bike without the LCD. You just need to bridge the red and blue wires that go to the LCD. this gives you throttle operation and PAS level 1. On some controllers, you have to bridge the comms wires together as well. They're the ones that aren't red blue or black.
 

eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
Thanks for the suggestion.

It may take me a bit of time to achieve this option, to see if it helps isolate the problem
 

eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
Hi
I have tried out some more detective work on the intermittent bike motor moving problem
I opened up the controller housing and identified the four wires going to the rear brake light.
I disconnected each connector in turn then both. By disconnecting both connectors the dim light extinguished.
However the intermittent motor kicking in continued so I reasoned that there is probably not an earth fault caused by the rear light wiring.
I tried disconnecting other connectors in turn but still the same fault.
When I disconnected the motor connector I did get an "er 8" displayed on the LCD display. I guess this is saying the motor sensing is disconnected.
My conclusion to all this is that the fault is probably within the controller box.
 

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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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If water has ingressed in to the display then tracks may be shorted to each other.
 

eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
You're not listening! If you want to go your own way, good luck, but you're wasting your time.
I was listening it was just I found it difficult to achieve what you suggested. The wiring is encased with connectors so one cannot see the pin wire colours.
Which is why I opened the bottom crank box where all the wiring goes.
How would you suggest I achieve your bridging of the red and black wires that go to the lcd.

I would say it does not look to me that any water has got into the LCD display as it seems to be functioning without any problems or any signs of damp.

I appreciate that you may think I am slow and too cautious but I do no want to make the situation worse.
 

eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
If water has ingressed in to the display then tracks may be shorted to each other.
I do not think there is water within the LCD display as it all looks normal and there is no sign of dampness in the display.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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There's a connector in that pod on the front where the cable goes one into 4. Stick a paperclip up the back of it. I thought it has female pins, so you can disconnect it and stick the paper clip in the front.
 

eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
Hi

I am still trying the avenues you have suggested.

1. the connector where the cables from the LCD and Brakes becomes one does not seem to come apart see photo LB0011. I used 2 pairs of pliers and tugged and I have tried rocking side to side.
2. the connector pin size is quite small and a paperclip will not fit into the female. See photo LB25 LB27 and the wiring within the cable runs is not visible so I am unable to see the wiring colours.
3. I will continue to investigate when I can - I have removed the LCD and Switch from the bike and brought it into the house to see if being in a dry environment eliminates the possibility that there is water within the LCD display.

Thanks for continuing to suggest ways forward.Lynn Bike0018.JPG
 

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vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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It's more tricky with your version. Freego used at least 3 different systems over the years to connect the LCD. With your one, you'd have to make the bridge inside the controller or inside the control panel unless you want to open the cable between the LCD and the junction box. Don't bridge any pins in that connector unless you're sure which is which.
 

eddyfos

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 2, 2021
9
0
Poole
Having tried Ito identify the intermittent motor kicking in problem without success I reconnected everything and put everything back in its place. With he idea to live with the motor kicking in. Of course since then I have not had the problem and the e-bike is working as normal with no intermittent occurrence.
Thank you for all those who showed an interest is this thread.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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3,986
Basildon
Having tried Ito identify the intermittent motor kicking in problem without success I reconnected everything and put everything back in its place. With he idea to live with the motor kicking in. Of course since then I have not had the problem and the e-bike is working as normal with no intermittent occurrence.
Thank you for all those who showed an interest is this thread.
It still points to water in the LCD, which has probably dried out by now. if you go out in the rain, put a freezer bag over the LCD and hold it in place with a rubber band. maybe put a couple of rubber bands in a freezer bag and stuff them into the end of the handlebars for emergency use.
 

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