Gears

[boyabouttown]

Looking at getting a new bike with gears but never having had a bike with gears before, could i ask a probably stupid question. If the bike has 16 gears (2 at front 8 at back) when you want to change from 8th to 9th etc. do you have to click up 1 at front and click all the way back down to 1st one at the back.

 

[soundwave]

yes tho most bikes these days are a single front chain ring i have 500% gear range with a 12spd cassette.

 

[Benjahmin]

It's not quite like that. There is some overlap between the ratio's, it's not a linear progression. SAy you are in 4th on the rear, large on the front, you feel like peddling is a bit too slow but 3rd feels too fast. Then the answer may be to go to small front cog and 5th on the rear. Sounds complex, I know, but it's all a matter of feel. Come to a slight uphill, change front cog from large to small. Headwind on the flat - small cog. Downhill, on the flat or tailwind, large cog, then select rear cog as required.
I live in a hilly area and have a narrow cadence range that I feel comfortable with, so I am always changing gear - both front and back. Others will say they rarely change the front cogs and even ditch them entirely.

 

[Fat Rat]

It's not quite like that. There is some overlap between the ratio's, it's not a linear progression. SAy you are in 4th on the rear, large on the front, you feel like peddling is a bit too slow but 3rd feels too fast. Then the answer may be to go to small front cog and 5th on the rear. Sounds complex, I know, but it's all a matter of feel. Come to a slight uphill, change front cog from large to small. Headwind on the flat - small cog. Downhill, on the flat or tailwind, large cog, then select rear cog as required.
I live in a hilly area and have a narrow cadence range that I feel comfortable with, so I am always changing gear - both front and back. Others will say they rarely change the front cogs and even ditch them entirely.

Also to add to this is also it’s about keeping your chain line as straight as you can
So not using the whole rear cassette in both front cogs

 

[Eagle]

boyabaouttown,

Some people may say that an electric bike doesn’t need 2 or 3 chainrings, but like Benjahmin I live in a hilly area and I can vouch for the fact that they are essential.

You will soon learn how to operate the gears and be very thankful that you have them.

Understanding gears:
https://www.britishcycling.org.uk/knowledge/bike-kit/article/izn20130703-Understanding-gears-0

NB The other very important thing to bear in mind is the number of teeth on the smallest sprocket on the rear gearset. This is usually 14 or 11.

Cassette buying guide:
https://guides.wiggle.co.uk/cassette-buying-guide

On the flat, I find 14 is far too low. This leads to pedalling like mad and getting nowhere fast. This is called "spinning out".

That is the reason I chose an Oxygen MTB with an 11 tooth sprocket (as opposed to the Oxygen ST and CB models which have 14). I can now move at a decent speed on the flat at a leisurely cadence.

If your favourite bike only comes with a 14 tooth sprocket, it is usually straightforward to replace the gearset with one which has 11 teeth. This could be done by the supplying dealer on, for example, the Oxygen ST/CB above.

Nevertheless it is much better to start out with a new bike having the right gearing for your own particular requirements.

 

[Nefarious]

I have to admit that on my current (non-electric) bike, I rarely use the small front cog. I have 11 at the back and rarely get into the smallest there either. But I do change that back cog a lot to keep the cadence comfortable

 

[Woosh]

Some people may say that an electric bike doesn’t need 2 or 3 chainrings, but like Benjahmin I live in a hilly area and I can vouch for the fact that they are essential.

While I can agree that an 11T rear cog suits many people, I believe that most people don't need more than 8-speed, so single ring is sufficient on a hub drive, lighter weight, less maintenance. On a crank drive or torque sensored bike, there is a valid argument for double rings.

 

[Nealh]

I have double front and find the smaller ring invaluable for long rides with 2.5 - 4k ascent even with hubs, it all depends on your leg strength and how much power you can supply.
I'd sooner have them then not.

 

[Trevormonty]

While I can agree that an 11T rear cog suits many people, I believe that most people don't need more than 8-speed, so single ring is sufficient on a hub drive, lighter weight, less maintenance. On a crank drive or torque sensored bike, there is a valid argument for double rings.

300% 8spd Nexus or 9spd cassette (11-34t), with middrive is all you need for road riding and commuting. Problem is lot bikes come with too high a gearing. My wifes bike with Activeline and Nexus 8spd was geared so at 15mph cutoff she was in 5th. I've now lowered gearing so its 6th, resulting in 1st gear that will climb all but steepest hills with ease.

For touring with heavy load then 11-42t or 11-46t cassette would be needed, unless running more powerful drive like CX.

 

[boyabouttown]

Thanks for the replies, done a bit of googling trying to understand gearing, is this the logical way to look at it ;
Eg. 34 x 50 front
11 x 32 back

1st 34 x 32 = 1.06
2nd 34 x 28 = 1.21
3rd 34 x 24 = 1.41
4th 50 x 32 = 1.56
5th 34 x 21 = 1.62
6th 50 x 28 = 1.78
7th 34 x 18 = 1.88
8th 50 x 24 = 2.08
9th 34 x 15 = 2.26
10th 50 x 21 = 2.38
11th 34 x 13 = 2.61
12th 50 x 18 = 2.77
13th 34 x 11 = 3.09
14th 50 x 15 = 3.33
15th 50 x 13 = 3.84
16th 50 x 11 = 4.54

 

[Nefarious]

I have to admit that on my current (non-electric) bike, I rarely use the small front cog. I have 11 at the back and rarely get into the smallest there either. But I do change that back cog a lot to keep the cadence comfortable

oops - that should have been "I rarely use the LARGE front cog" - that's the hard work one, isn't it?!