Glazed brakes?

anon4

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My front brake (Clark M2) has bite at the lever but doesn't feel that grabby any more, plenty of pad left. I suspect the pads have glazed over. I replaced them with cheap eBay pads previously, are these the issue or is there something I can do to help?
 

Nealh

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Pads material may be too hard and also not compatible with your discs.
I have had a couple pairs of cheaper ebay pads that have been pants like yours and initially ok but then glazed with little or no bite for stopping.

Generally though I use cheap China pads and have very good stopping power from them, the last lot I bought was 10 pairs for £1 - £1.50 a pair. They have proved to be very good and have no issue with there performance.

Material is important and some rotors/discs are only resin/organic compound compatible.
 
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anon4

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May 9, 2017
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Pads material may be too hard and also not compatible with your discs.
I have had a couple pairs of cheaper ebay pads that have been pants like yours and initially ok but then glazed with little or no bite for stopping.

Generally though I use cheap China pads and have very good stopping power from them, the last lot I bought was 10 pairs for £1 - £1.50 a pair. They have proved to be very good and have no issue with there performance.

Material is important and some rotors/discs are only resin/organic compound compatible.
Where did you buy yours? I thought my original pads were sintered but could be wrong will try resin ones
 

vfr400

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Brake pads get glazed and lose efficiency when they're touching the disc all the time. That happens when something stops the caliper from retracting properly. On a car or motorbike, it's normally corrosion on the exposed part of the cylinder, but on a bicycle, it's most likely just accumulated crud behind the pad.

I suggest you remove the pads and clean the caliper behind thoroughly. Also, when you reassemble, check that the pads can move on the pin properly.
 

anon4

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Brake pads get glazed and lose efficiency when they're touching the disc all the time. That happens when something stops the caliper from retracting properly. On a car or motorbike, it's normally corrosion on the exposed part of the cylinder, but on a bicycle, it's most likely just accumulated crud behind the pad.

I suggest you remove the pads and clean the caliper behind thoroughly. Also, when you reassemble, check that the pads can move on the pin properly.
Pretty sure that's not it, can see a little light between the pads.
 

EddiePJ

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Pretty sure that's not it, can see a little light between the pads.


To add to Nealh's post which makes a lot of sense, it is very likely that the pads would have glazed over because of road contaminates, particularly at this time of year.

Cycle brake pads can be deglazed and cleaned, but in reality it is just a waste of time, and will only be a short term fix as the contaminates would have already of been absorbed into the pad material.

As you can see light between the pad material, the best solution is the ensure that brake discs are thoroughly cleaned and degreased using brake cleaner, then throw the old pads away and replace with new.
 
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anon4

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To add to Nealh's post which makes a lot of sense, it is very likely that the pads would have glazed over because of road contaminates, particularly at this time of year.

Cycle brake pads can be deglazed and cleaned, but in reality it is just a waste of time, and will only be a short term fix as the contaminates would have already of been absorbed into the pad material.

As you can see light between the pad material, the best solution is the ensure that brake discs are thoroughly cleaned and degreased using brake cleaner, then throw the old pads away and replace with new.
Ok, I'll grab some new pads, I've cleaned and lightly sanded the rotor which has helped a little, it's not like it's dangerous or anything just crap bite compared to normal
 

Nealh

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Where did you buy yours? I thought my original pads were sintered but could be wrong will try resin ones

This is the type of seller I used from China cheap as chips, do as I did buy one pair to try and if they prove to work well go buy a a few more pairs for stock.
I have about a dozen pairs in my supplies box which should last me several years.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Shimano-Deore-Resin-Brake-Pads-B01S-B01-M395-M446-M485-M525-Useful/273213886173?hash=item3f9cd10edd:m:m_aq4PynzQkQ4EGfqgiWzsA
 

anon4

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This is the type of seller I used from China cheap as chips, do as I did buy one pair to try and if they prove to work well go buy a a few more pairs for stock.
I have about a dozen pairs in my supplies box which should last me several years.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Shimano-Deore-Resin-Brake-Pads-B01S-B01-M395-M446-M485-M525-Useful/273213886173?hash=item3f9cd10edd:m:m_aq4PynzQkQ4EGfqgiWzsA
Yeah normally what I go for except I go for sintered as supposed to last longer. Come to think of it I experienced crap braking withy previous cable brakes (BB5 clones). Chalked it up to just being cheap but maybe I just needed resin pads. The problems started when I changed pads, it does feel like it needs s bleed soon but there's still a decent lever feel. If I brake with 2 fingers instead of one there is still good power there just takes a good grab, also there is a noise there like the sound of the holes in the rotor catching, this further makes me believe the pads are shot as the original pads were silent and barely took one finger to stop
 

Nealh

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Resin/organic have more bite initially then sintered or semi sintered brakes, there disadvantage is they may fade is too much heat builds up on declines. This is sintered are meant to excel.

Changing pad seller can give differing performance esp if they are clones.
I used to buy 1 or two pairs as and when needed for my brakes as all but one brake uses the same pad but found brake performance differed, so opted for buy one like it buy some more for my spares/parts box.

Give resin/organic a go to see if you prefer them or not.
With the cheap ones I find they wear a little quicker but still get >1000 miles use out of them on my 700c town/commute bike, I don't mind the wear rate for the cheap price as I'm more then happy with the stopping power/bite from the pads.

If the brakes worked previously then bleeding shouldn't be necessary unless a leak or air has somehow entered the system, adj the lever travel if there is too much travel. Lever feel/brake performance will feel good with pads that work well.
 
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