I've ordered a 27.2 to 30.9 shim so here's hoping it squeezes into the tube ok. I prefer a tight fit anyway...oo-er30.3? That's a pretty odd, uncommon size is it not?
Measured mine with digi calipers at 30.9mm...
Yep mine was 30.9 it got slimmed down a bit,as plenty of meat on the one I ordered, going to go for a bit of a ride a little later to see if it's any good.Bugger - I ordered a 30.9mm based on the info above! Ah well - I'm sure there's another bike somewhere in my garage it will fit!
Wow! where did you get that from Red? Is it 25amp same as original?
It should be 25amp same as original, but I assume that there are some internal upgrades to the hardware.Wow! where did you get that from Red? Is it 25amp same as original?
Dare I ask how much that cost? I may get one in as a spare and also get the nylon gear, I'm running 22amps and 85% keep current with my 48t chainwheel, gets to places fast and that's with the old battery, I just ignore the battery meter in display and use the one on the battery.. neither the motor or battery are hot after a 10 mile blast.It should be 25amp same as original, but I assume that there are some internal upgrades to the hardware.
It came from Ewan at eMAX Electrics in Oz.
I blew my first controller through stupidity - let's hope I don't make the same mistake again!
I will hopefully get the chance to hook it up this weekend, along with my 30Q battery pack from Jimmy. I'm hoping that then I will have the bike I want!
168 AUD - about £108 including shipping (ouch!)Dare I ask how much that cost?
I'm also intrigued what settings you were using the controller popped. Any chance of screen grabs of tabs 1 and 2 from the software?Red, what were the settings that caused the controller failure - just for reference.
Ultrafunkula, buddy also now ignores the battery meter in the display and instead relies on the one on the battery. No issues either.
He did have a prob with a stripped seat post clamp thread, replaced it & now all good.
No need to panic - the controller failure was nothing to do with settings, but user stupidity!Red, what were the settings that caused the controller failure - just for reference.
Ah, I see. Several schoolboy errors you're unlikely to repeat there then!No need to panic - the controller failure was nothing to do with settings, but user stupidity!
I bent some of the pins on the higo connector plugging in the programming lead (the one I was using didn't have a genuine Higo connector). I used a metal scredwriver to straighten the pins - the battery was not fully off the frame but just tilted to the right - turns out that's not enough to prevent 36V flowing through the pins and you get a big spark and a broken controller.
Words to that effect, yes. It was late at night and I suspect my colourful language may have woken the kidsAh, I see. Several schoolboy errors you're unlikely to repeat there then!
And upon hearing the crack/pop, you said " Oh bother"!
I have a feeling the 20amp controller is for the mg33.250 motor same as the guy in Norway who posted his settings on endless sphere and also the guys inOZ who have the max drive with motors stamped as 33.250 .My new programming cable arrived from China today - having the genuine Higo connector makes it much easier to connect the cable.
Having read the standard settings from the 1B controller, the only difference is the firmware version is 184.108.40.206 rather than 220.127.116.11 on the orginal and the Maximum Current is only 20Amps rather than 25Amps - arrgh! I was told it was 25Amp before ordering. I doubt I would use the 25Amps anyway, but it would have been nice to have the option given I've splashed out on a 30Q battery pack!
The motor seems to run a bit quieter with this controller, but I could be imagining it.
Don't kill your original controller folks - you might end up with a 20Amp replacement!
Curious! I wonder if yours is unique in that respect?Mine is different