How to change gears

[Hiijinx]

Hello all,

Recently got my first e-bike and seeking some clarification on how to change gears properly.
I have a Haibike SDURO Trekking 1.0 with a Bosch Active Line motor.

Not having ridden a bike for many years, the only thing I really remembered about gear changes was to pedal when you do it, or risk facing a dropped chain.
However, on my e-bike - I have had conflicting advice given to me.

Some have told me to change as you would a normal bike - ie while pedaling.

Others have suggested to STOP pedaling all together and let the torque of the motor drop.

While people in the middle have merely suggested to "ease off" the pedaling, but not stop.

Since owning it, I have managed to drop the chain from the front ring multiple times and getting it completely seized up between the frame, taking 20+ minutes to dislodge - which is annoying to say the least.

Just wondered if it had anything to do with how I was shifting up/down.

Thanks in advance

 

[soundwave]

The Mechanics of Chain Suck: Chain Suck — when the bicycle chain fails to disengage from the teeth of a chainring (usually during a shift), sticking to the tooth (or teeth) as the chainring continues to turn, wrapping back up and around the chainring.

 

[sjpt]

I'm in the 'ease off' camp for changing. Is the chain the right length and set up so it is properly tensioned in all gears? Usually dropping the chain from the front is wrong adjustment on the front derailleur, but that obviously does not apply here.

 

[Darren Hayward]

I change exactly as I would on a normal bike. The controller (with Bosch) will automatically drop the power a touch when you change gear anyway. The only thing to avoid is trying to go uphill in a high gear and really scrunching the gears changing down. Drop a gear before you hit the hill and keep the cadence up.

As above, chain tension is key. I dropped my chain off the front cog several times and went back to Evans. My derailleur (Shimano Shadowplus) has a small lever (mechanic called it a clutch) which has two settings. With a single front cog I needed the stiffer setting - problem cured. It will be a problem with chain tension of some sort.


Darren

 

[vfr400]

You have to remember to change down through the gears as you slow down.

Derailleurs can only change gear when the chain is moving, so you can't stop pedalling to change gear. The more tension you have on the chain, the more stress there'll be on the components involved, and you get a bigger clunk. The trick is to keep the chain moving, but with as little tension on it as possible.

Chain suck shouldn't be a problem on an Active Line because it has a bigger chainwheel.