Identification of hub motor

[Dobbler]

I have inherited a front 26inch wheel with hub motor (see pic). This weighs a little less than five kilos and has a set of three wires and a set of five wires. The hub bears no proud maker’s mark it is just marked CMA040138.
Can someone please tell me what the hub is?
The three wires are green, yellow and blue.
The five even smaller wires are green, yellow, blue, black and pink.
(I’m inclined to get a suitable motor controller and twist throttle but am mindful that a wheel with tyre, tube, controller, twist grip throttle and absolutely all sorts is available for a little over a hundred pounds and it might be foolproof to set up.)

 

[Nealh]

Can't help with the hub producer's name , though you have what appears to be a sinewave geared hub for freewheels. The 5 thin motor wires are sensor wires and the three thicker ones phase wires, it has no internal speed sensor so you would need to wire in a simple exterior one with spoke magnet. The face plate is held on with the six screws as seen in the pic so servicing should be quite easy, of concern is the twist in the motor wire as it leaves the axle.
Does the wheel or do you know if it actually works or are the wires damaged ?

The cheap kits you talk about are basic ones with heavy D/D hubs motors and quite poor electronics for control, if you hub works then a 15/17a Kt controller/lcd kit will give 5 levels of PAS for better rider control and power levels.

 

[sjpt]

Quick search for CMA bike motor indicated Christian Motorcyclists Association ... maybe not so helpful.
Searching "CMA" ebike motor came up with things indicating there is (was?) a manufacturer called CMA.

More seriously (as Nealh says, I drifted off into other things before posting and didn't notice hist post ...): Beware that many of the cheap setups available online are inefficient direct drive motors with very poor controllers that eat through battery. Most are well over 250w nominal and illegal on road (without jumping through lots of hoops); a direct drive that was only 250w would be very feeble compared to a 250w geared hub motor. A decent basic wheel, motor, controller etc etc (but not battery) is likely to be around £200 or over.

 

[vfr400]

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time. It's the sort of thing that if you already had a controller and battery and you know about phase and hall sequences, it might be worth testing to see if it works and how well it works. There are too many possibilities that can make it into a cash sink and cause you a lot of frustration and wasted time. Some motors only work with certain controllers; it could be rusty; hall sensor could be blown; cable could be nicked (doesn't look good in the photo); it could be burnt; or any other problem.

If you want to test the basic electrical things, you can do it with one of these.

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Without one of those you can also test it by putting the axle in a vice and using a meter to check the phase windings and hall sensor functions if you have anything that can give a 4.5V or 5V supply.

Also, you need to get some flanged nuts and anti-rotation washers or torque arm before you can install it in a bike. The cost will soon start mounting up. Soon you will wish that you'd spent the £120 on a brand new kit from Ebay, and soon after that, you'd wish that you'd spend £200 on the decent one.

 

[Nealh]

If Dobbler doesn't know if it works then I would not bother as well, esp as we can see that the motor wire is badly twisted. It is likely that the hub did twist out of the drop outs and why it looks bad.
As vfr says if you had spare kit knocking about then no cost but, if it is not known then £££'s can mount up.
If you want a kit then look at the Yose hub offerings if you want a good cheaper kit.