Legal bike how to chose between them?

D8ve

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As legal bikes have virtually identical performance. 250 watt! How do we differentiate between bikes.
Is it cost (whoosh), components (Shimano ), brand name kalkoff, KTM, style moustache? Premium price ? Oxygen as they one by inches in the Race?
Support ? Established brand? Reviews? Local support, nationwide delivery?


The names are selected roughly. I am open to this is best because xxxxxxx.

What are they then ?
 
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Emo Rider

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Jan 10, 2014
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Test ride them. They pretty much all get to the same place but in different ways.
 
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250w is the nominal rating, which has no relation to how much power or torque produces. The "200w" Heinzmann kit has 30 amps at 36v (=1080w input) compared with a "250w" Cyclamatic which has 12 amps at 24v (= 288w input).
 
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hoppy

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May 25, 2010
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As legal bikes have virtually identical performance. 250 watt! How do we differentiate between bikes.
Is it cost (whoosh), components (Shimano ), brand name kalkoff, KTM, style moustache? Premium price ? Oxygen as they one by inches in the Race?
Support ? Established brand? Reviews? Local support, nationwide delivery?


The names are selected roughly. I am open to this is best because xxxxxxx.

What are they then ?
Read and learn all you can about them; try out all you can; buy the one you like best!
 
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Croxden

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It's like asking how to understand a woman. You can go nuts after the ever decreasing circles. And there is no tee shirt yet, but there ought to be.
 

Croxden

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trex

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May 15, 2011
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the next bike you buy will be more expensive than the last one.
So don't rush out and spend all.
 

shemozzle999

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Find a bicycle you like - ask the dealer for a written guarantee that it is legal - if one can not be provided do yourself a favor and don't buy it
 

D8ve

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Thanks
This was a deliberately open question. As d8veh has seen I have a bike just now. But what should be the deciding factors in choosing?
Max power is one thing. Range is another.
Me I am stuck with a recumbent now due to injury.
 

Geebee

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Mar 26, 2010
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As long as increased power doesnt add too much weight it should not adversly affect range as you can either dial down the assist or just spin up until you and the assist are both working, I find if I do this I get ranges way beyond the manufacturers quoted range.
Obviously if you use the higher power to pull you around it will have a very short range.
 
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shemozzle999

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This was a deliberately open question. As d8veh has seen I have a bike just now. But what should be the deciding factors in choosing?
Max power is one thing. Range is another.
Me I am stuck with a recumbent now due to injury.
Your first decision you need to make is whether your choice of transport can be accommodated by the purchase of a legal pedal assisted bicycle to fulfill your personal requirements, if not then you should look at the alternative modes of transport.

Unfortunately it is difficult for a consumer to decide at the moment whether a legal pedal assisted bicycle would be the best for your personal requirements due to the conflicting perception of the industry what constitutes a legal bicycle. Previously described 500W motors are now being fitted to legal bicycles.

The current UK law provides for limited 200W safe assistance for the rider with a concession that the conflicting EU 250W will be exempt from prosecution by means of not being in the public interest - i.e. it would cause a public embarrassment for the government should it be laid before the courts.

If all legal bicycle motor systems were equal powered then the decision would be easy you just choose the specific bicycle design that fits your need.

Top assisted speed is fixed by regulation.

Climbing ability within the imposed power limits can be maximised with careful design but will have a natural limitation that will not fulfill extreme conditions. New motors are now available with better mechanical advantage to help climbing ability but it comes with a price of reduced speed while climbing.

Required range has been improved by the recent advances in battery technology it just needs your choice of bicycle to accommodate the required size of battery - you would only be limited by the all up weight of the bicycle to the amount of battery power you can carry.

Off-roading and competitive cycling ,I believe, was not a consideration when the UK law was being drafted as the speed and power requirements would have be outside the legislation.
 
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billadie

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Apr 27, 2010
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Comfort, comfort and comfort. Strictly in that order. If you are comfortable on a bike you will ride it. If it is a pain in the bum, knee, back or anywhere else you won't.
So try first, not just a ride round a car park, but several miles, on mixed roads, as a minimum.
 

Geebee

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Comfort, comfort and comfort. Strictly in that order. If you are comfortable on a bike you will ride it. If it is a pain in the bum, knee, back or anywhere else you won't.
So try first, not just a ride round a car park, but several miles, on mixed roads, as a minimum.
If that was the only essential everyone would be riding recumbents or more specifically recumbent trikes, comfort of a recliner and don't you have to balance or put a foot down at the lights :):D
 
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D8ve

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Bill and geebee.
I guess that's why I won't go back from the recumbent now.
Oh the easier distance speed helps too
Shemozzle is hitting the spot on what we should be debating.

Dave
 
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trex

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we have debated the motor power issue. The problem is not the UK legislation but EN15194 - that does not want to impose limit on allowable maximum motor output.
 
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No dealer can give you a written guarantee that their bikes are legal because they're not.
we have debated the motor power issue. The problem is not the UK legislation but EN15194 - that does not want to impose limit on allowable maximum motor output.
I see that as an advantage, not a problem.
 

EddiePJ

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Climbing ability within the imposed power limits can be maximised with careful design but will have a natural limitation that will not fulfill extreme conditions. New motors are now available with better mechanical advantage to help climbing ability but it comes with a price of reduced speed while climbing.
Isn't that where final drive gearing comes into play?

I've designed my set up for exactly that purpose, binning the OE chain rings in favour of 24/38 on the front and an 11/36 rear cassette. Top end on road pedal speed is obviously down, but this bike isn't about that. The difficulty that I have is keeping the front down. :D

The OE spec was a triple up front of 22/32/44 and a rear cassette of 11/32. I reckon that I have close to the optimum. :)





 
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EddiePJ

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As for the question. Buying the first bike, my decision was based purely on style. I hate and still do hate external batteries. I prefer a bike to have clean lines, but sadly looks alone don't make a quality bike.

After buying the BH, I began to learn what I actually required from a bike, and in the case of the BH, I've piled a lot of money into getting it as far as I can, but that limit is reached.

I still feel that it is one of the best looking bikes out there though, and here it is this morning waiting to be boxed up and sent back to Spain for yet more repairs. :(




My next purchase, will be based on the following in no particular order.

  • Full, high quality suspension
  • Range, min requirement 40 miles of combined assist/non assist, split 70-30
  • Be as silent as possible, but this conflicts with my quest for looks. Noise is important to me from the point of view of riding in organised mtb events, and also for some of my evening/night time 'gorilla' riding. Having said that, the BH would still serve the evening/night time use.
  • Factory support
  • Build quality
  • Component spec
  • 27.5" wheels
  • Be an mtb
I can compromise to a degree on component spec as these can be changed.
 
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