Mudguards & Controllers

[TheLoneRider]

Hi,

I recently bought a 'fatbike' coz I go where it's wet & boggy, and want the buoyancy ! - Seems like a good reason - right ?
I like to go where it's wet & boggy, but I don't want to BE wet & boggy - Logical ?

So why can't I find any full mudguards for 4 inch wide tyres ?
Hopefully someone can tell me where to get some . . . .

Also, the bike I bought seemed to be a Merida, but e-bikesdirect and Merida both say it's "an unbranded import". ( I was trying to get a user's manual for the controller)
So now i don't know what I've got ! I will attach a pic of the unit to see if anyone can identify it - that would at least be a start.

( I'm in Sheffield UK )

Thanks
Inny

 

[Nealh]

That is just an lcd display, the controller is either a metal box type or one integrated at the base of the battery.

 

[Nealh]

You will likely only find silly micky mouse mudguards as the bike isn't designed for traditional road/commute use but for off road where mudguards are of little use.
Putting it mildly it isn't a sensible bike to use and wanting to stay clean.
For the rear one can try a mud hugger available on online sites the front one won't find much that is affective at all.

 

[TheLoneRider]

That is just an lcd display, the controller is either a metal box type or one integrated at the base of the battery.

Ok, thanks for reply. Attached more pix. I cant see a metal box - so controller must be in the battery ?

Is there likely to be a manual for the LCD ? I don't know anything about the buttons and menus on this device, obviously would like to be aware of facilities it offers . . . How ?

 

[Nealh]

Controller looks to be between battery bottom and seat tube.
As for a manual one would need to know the actual brand and display type, look on the back for any name/writing.
The one feature that is nice is it displays battery voltage.

 

[cyclebuddy]

I don't know the Merida brand very well, but a 4" fat tyre bike really isn't their market. The logo on the headtube doesn't look like Merida's either.

I came across a fat-tyre e-bike the other week that had KTM convincingly emblazened on the downtube. On closer inspection the whole bike had been wrapped in carbon film to cover/disguise it's true origins... But it definitely wasn't a KTM.

With decent full pictures of the whole bike someone may be able to identify what it really is, what bits it's got, and what mudguards may fit.

 

[AndyBike]

ADO A20F Mudguard only

1 x Pair ADO A20F Fenders Electric Bicycle Front And Rear Mudguards ADO A20F Bike Mudguards Original Accessories Replacement PartsPackage Content: 1pcs front fender 1pcs rear fender

www.gadgetstalls.com

 

[TheLoneRider]

Hi Folks

Thanks for assistance.

I'm not a 2w virgin - had motorbikes for years, but electric is brand-new to me !

1st ride last week was just a short familiarisation, will have my second ever ebike ride on sat, and intend to go further to observe battery behaviour. I bought the bike to go into the wilds of scotland but dont want to hire a helicopter to retrieve a dead battery . . . .

I have not even played with the buttons on LCD yet, but it says "normal" and "eco" is guess these are configurable. Is it safe to experiment these without a manual / or knowing what I am doing ? I should reset the trip - I saw somewhere about pressing both buttons to get into settings ?
Is it likely to be novice friendly ?

The readout shows voltage. It showed 41v when I put charged battery on - is it 36 or 48v battery ?
How low can the voltage drop till it stops powering the motor ?
Will it power all the way to zero ? ( would seem odd for 36v motor to be driven by batt at less than 36v ?)

Recently saw 2 articles: 1st said Batt should be fully discharged occasionally to restore memory - 2nd said full discharge would permanently damage the Batt - any advice ?

Will take another pic of battery base - I guess Batt with integral controller is expensive to carry a spare ?

Thanks

 

[TheLoneRider]

With decent full pictures of the whole bike someone may be able to identify what it really is, what bits it's got, and what mudguards may fit.

I can take more pix - anything specific or just broadsides ? (the wheels are 26")

 

[Nealh]

The battery at 41v is either a nearly fully charged 36v nominal one or a nearly empty 48v nominal one.
As you mentioned it's been charged which means a full charge is 41.5 -42v, the usable charge is down to approx. 32v. The lower value will depend on the battery spec's.
It may take or three charges to get the full 42v as it is likely that the cells haven't balance charged correctly yet. If riding out once you get to between 36 - 37v then it is time to turn around and head home.

Can you supply a link to the seller or bike ?

 

[Nealh]

The settings of Eco, Normal and usually may one or two others are power modes, Eco is the economical mode which will give most range. Range will be fairly low due to the fat tyres so one will have to experiment with rides to see how far one will get.
Start off with 10 mile ride out and ten back to see how much battery is used then one can work out an estimate of the range or simply next time try 14/15 miles out and return.

With most bikes the power settings aren't configurable and are set in the firmware.
One simply selects the modes for power that one requires.

 

[TheLoneRider]

Thanks for assistance.
.
Ok so I went out yesterday. Full charged at 41.6, I rode 7.5miles (at between 11-15mph) and that left 37.7v remaining in Batt so it used 3.9 volts. Can I assume same discharge rate down to 32v, and extrapolate mileage, or will rate differ ? IE: is discharge graph a diagonal flat line, or is is a curve?
.
I removed the LCD unit, it has "C500-2003-Y909 36V-V2.1" written on back. I would like to get a manual to tell me how to use it. I did get into menus and zero the trip, but couldnt see how to engage the other 4 / 5 menu options.
.
Forks are Mozo, and brake calipers have AONUOSAI written on them. Motor seems to have DY 36V 26" written on it.
.
I will attach photos of the battery to see if any one can identify it. (either battery OR bike !)

Thanks

 

[Nealh]

Try this.
BIGSTONE C500B-LCD INSTRUCTIONS MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib

 

[Nealh]

A couple of graphs showing discharge using two fairly widely used cells.


This Orbtronic is a Panny PD/PF re wrap

 

[TheLoneRider]

Thanks for these, the manuals are very similar to my hardware - varying mostly on available levels of PAS.

The graphs are harder to understand, why do the volts have comma's in the number ?
I guess bottom scale is watt/hours ? so 10= 10 hours at 1 watt

can you ID the battery from the photos ?
it has a sticker which says "XNW-DC 20200419 36V13Ah 01C". It also has Merida written on side, but merida say it's not a Merida.

it has an irregular shape, the only thing on ebay anywhere close is this 'Dorado' one, but the ends look different.

NCM Reention Dorado+ 17.5AH battery E-bike NCM Moscow bikes READ DESCRIPTION | eBay

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">NCM Reention Dorado+ 17.5AH battery E-bike NCM Moscow bikes READ DESCRIPTION.used but good condition </p>

www.ebay.co.uk

I bought the bike privately, so it's not new, and no paperwork, hence this confusion.

But in the light of my recent test ride, I need to get a spare battery before venturing too far from the tarmac
I'm now wondering if I could get a big flat flat battery on the rear carrier, and run a cable to the existing connection point.

Only 6 weeks before trip to Scotland - so now getting short on time !!

Ste

 

[Nealh]

The graphs show single cell testing, hence why the side scale reading 2.9v - 4.2v.
The Wh is the individual cell wh capacity.

 

[Nealh]

If the battery only uses a two pin/wire connection then yes you can wire in a generic battery to use as long as the existing battery is isolated.

 

[sjpt]

why do the volts have comma's in the number ?

I don't know that's the reason in this case, but comma is the norm instead of full stop for the decimal point in many European countries (maybe others as well)

If that's the reason, it's odd that the amps have full stops.

 

[matthewslack]

I don't know that's the reason in this case, but comma is the norm instead of full stop for the decimal point in many European countries (maybe others as well)

If that's the reason, it's odd that the amps have full stops.

The volts scale is generated by the software in the number format of the country the computer has been told it is in. ("Locale").

The amps numbers are labels manually entered as text by the user, taken literally by the software.

Different source, different format.

 

[Nealh]

The comma is how the Europeans use it 4,2v where as we denote it as 4.2v.
The graphs I posted are independent ones tested by a Dane.