New Battery quandry

[Simon Knowles-Bolton]

Hi everyone
I have taken over an Alien Aurora circa 2009 (rear hub motor)currently with a Phylion 36v 10AH battery. The bike is fine but the battery has been left too long uncharged and need replacing. Attached photos
Have looked at as much advice as I can but it seems that 36v 15AH is the way to go for increased mileage as it apparently managed only about 15 on assist.
BMS seem to offer a 36v 15AH at $229 and a C rate with Anderson discharge port at$309.The size appears ok albeit a tad longer.
I asked about the difference, porting, shipping, guarantees etc but questions were lost in translation I think.
Should I be buying UK(can't find 15AH though). Should I consider 48v? Am I even on the right track?
Any advice on this would be most appreciated.
Many thanks
Simon

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The problem is to find one that's an exact fit. I'd chuck the whole lot, rack and all, put the controller in a tool bag (under saddle) and get a nice bottle battery to mount on the downtube. You bike will be much better balanced, so will handle better and not look so diabolical. Maybe this battery:

http://eclipsebikes.com/145ah-lithium-frame-battery-samsung-cells-p-1104.html

Your bike will look something like this:

 

[johnc461165]

I have the same bike and I am using the battery recommended by d8veh, as he says balance is much improved.

 

[Simon Knowles-Bolton]

I have the same bike and I am using the battery recommended by d8veh, as he says balance is much improved.

Thanks guys.
I like the idea of this and will probably go with it. As I am quite new to this I have a few questions.
I am supposing that the controller is the galvanised box that the current battery locates into on the slide?
I am reasonably adept at fettling and can certainly get that into a saddle bag but what about the connecting cable to the new bottle battery-is that something I buy from the same place and would I have to change the ports?
On my bike the on/off switch, power input and battery state indicators are all on the handlebar. Can I assume that this will still work as I am using the same controller.
Many thanks for your help.
Simon

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The controller is a small finned aluminium box that sits inside the box at the front of the battery.

The controller has lots of connectors that can be disconnected while you remove the rack. Once thats gone, you can install the saddle bag. You cut a small hole in the bottom front to pass all the wires and connectors through, reconnect, zip up and away you go.

The new battery will have two wires. I'm not sure of the length or what connector they have. You might have to change the connectors and/or lengthen the wires, which means a bit of soldering, though there are other options if you can't solder. You can get the connectors and wire from your local r/c model shop or from Ebay.

Afterwards, everything will work exactly the same as before, except that you'll get slightly more power. Instead of a key switch to switch the battery on, there's a push button switch. The new battery still has a lock to lock it to the bike.

 

[johnc461165]

I had to extend the wire by 30 cm approx then soldered the wires onto the controller quite easy to do, if you mount the battery to the frame you will need to use longer 5 mm screws the ones holding the water bottle are not quite long enough.

 

[Simon Knowles-Bolton]

I had to extend the wire by 30 cm approx then soldered the wires onto the controller quite easy to do, if you mount the battery to the frame you will need to use longer 5 mm screws the ones holding the water bottle are not quite long enough.

Sounds like I have a winter project. Also a chance to bring the look and ride up to date.....and to lose those awful panniers!
Will post the result and comments.
Thanks again
Simon

 

[johnc461165]

Hey Simon I carry loads of things in my panniers but each to his own.