PAS wiring help for Oxygen S Cross MTB.....

Hovlev2

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2020
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Hi again, I'm hoping there's an electrical Guru on here who can maybe point me in the right direction.
I've now received a new controller + display + throttle, and am in the process of wiring things up.
I have now definitely ascertained that there are 5 wires leading to the existing PAS (yellow, red, green, blue and black), but the new controller has only 3 wires (yellow, brown and black). I have a new PAS sensor with 3 wires (the new one looks completely different to the old one!), but would rather use the existing one if feasible/ possible/ possibly less aggro, but how can I tell which wires do what.
I can't find any wires for a speed sensor, so not sure how that works either!
I'm also unsure as to why there is a removable wire bridge between the black and blue wires leading from the controller?
The controller, by the way, is this one... http://www.topbikekit.com/t06s-24v36v250w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-brushless-controller-for-ebike-p-443.html
Thanks in advance....!
Mick
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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2,252
Basildon
The black and blue bridge is the cruise control. Take it off. Cruise control can be dangerous and you shouldn't want or need it.

Chuck the Oxygen PAS and use the new one.

The speed sensor is in the motor. It comes to the controller via a white wire in the 9 pin cable. You shouldn't have to do anything with that other than set P2 =1 or possibly 6.

When you have to thread wires through the frame, use an old brake cable with a nipple. Tape the nipple against the cable next to the connector, then tape around the connector to make everything flush. Pull the old cable out to leave the brake cable in place, then tape the cable to your new cable that you need to pull through. Use enough tape to make it streamlined because it can easily catch on other cables and jam. If you pull a cable out of the frame tube without leaving behind the brake cable, you've got virtually no chance of getting the new one through. Don't ask me how I know,
 

Hovlev2

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2020
117
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Thanks again for the info! Do you think the one I've got to put on looks right? There's a couple of pics showing the old one (on the bike) and the new one....(sadly no instructions as to mounting it!)377593776037761
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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Thanks again for the info! Do you think the one I've got to put on looks right? There's a couple of pics showing the old one (on the bike) and the new one....(sadly no instructions as to mounting it!)View attachment 37759View attachment 37760View attachment 37761
That's a weird one. I think it's for hollow-tech type BBs. It has the wrong size hole for your bike You night still be able to use it. I guess it's designed to tie to the back of the chainwheel, but it will might be tricky to get it close enough to the sensor, which mounts behind the flange of the BB. If your chainwheel is close to or overlaps the BB, it'll probably be OK. You have a couple of options if the gap is too big (1mm is ideal): Firstly, you can take the sensor off its bracket and make your own bracket to hold it in the right position; secondly, you can swap the sensor to the other side of its bracket so that the bracket reaches forwards instead of back.

Whatever you do, make sure you test it before mounting it so that you get the direction right and the magnet disc the right way up.

This is the one you should have got - only $2:
 

Hovlev2

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2020
117
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Typical that I got the wrong one! Do you reckon I could maybe use 3 of the wires on the existing one in the interim, until I get the right one
? Problem is not knowing which wires do what!
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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Typical that I got the wrong one! Do you reckon I could maybe use 3 of the wires on the existing one in the interim, until I get the right one
? Problem is not knowing which wires do what!
You'd have to test with a meter. I can't see your link. They want login.
 

Hovlev2

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2020
117
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It should be OK, but it depends on the gap between your chainwheel and BB. If the gap is too small, the one you already have would be better.
Thanks, I might go for that, unless I can work out which 3 wires to use (there's too many possible combinations!)
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Make life simple ditch the 5 wire PAS and use the a 3 wire PAS either 8 or 10 poles as they give less problems.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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You'll have to extend the cable to reach the controller, and thread it up through the frame. Use a brake cable inner too pul it through.
 
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Hovlev2

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2020
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Not sure if I'm on the right thread here, but it's still about the same bike! I've now got it all running properly (except for lack of PAS until it arrives), the only issue I have now is that the speedo seems to read very optimistically, ie getting on for what I reckon is about double the actual speed. I've tried various adjustments, but to no avail. Any comments or ideas welcome!
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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It's your thread and still related.
When last you posted your LCD settings P2 was 0, we don't know how many magnets the Shengyi uses for the speed signal so adjust P2 to see if any work better.
Often 1 or 6 does the trick.

Is the wheel size set correct ?

P2 & P1 are the only settings that affect the speed reading.
 
Last edited:

Hovlev2

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2020
117
27
It's your thread and still related.
When last you posted your LCD settings P2 was 0, we don't know how many magnets the Shengyi uses for the speed signal so adjust P2 to see if any work better.
Often 1 or 6 does the trick.

Is the wheel size set correct ?

P2 & P1 are the only settings that affect the speed reading.
Thanks, I'll have another look