Thanks to Ratzlaki for starting a thread on his first puncture experience.
I had my first puncture on my Meerkat almost exactly a month after I got it.
I knew the first puncture was looming, I actually thought 1 month was not bad.
2 points about this:
1. Tyre Selection:
There are several good puncture-resistant tyres about. Schwalbe Marathon Plus are good and Continental make good ones. The 26" 2.0 are hard to get, though. Altyernatives are the Schwalbe Marathon Plus ATB 2.0 (more expensive).
In the end I settled for Schwalbe Big Apples because they were in stock. I also liked the schock-absorbancy of the Big Aples, the weight of the battery can give problems with the connection because of all the shocks. The Big Aples will hopefully reduce that effect. I only used the 2.0 ones because they should fit, so I did not try the 2.15 or 2.35 ones. if anybody has trie the 2.35 I'd be interested to know if they fit easily.
2 How to actually change the tyre?
It is not in the manual. I did the following and replaced the tube and tyre in an hour.
a. Hang the rear of the bike above the ground, and stabilize the bike with bungee cords.
b. secure the motor with a bungee cord to the rack, saddle or the rope you hang the bike from.
c. loosen the axle nuts, the chain-tensioner nut (outer one only, if you do not move the inner one it is easier to fit back), the securing bolt between the frame and the plate (onm which the motor is mounted). This is comparable to p.112 in the manual (tensioning the chain) except that you have to loosen the axle nuts as well. Also loosen the brake to allow the wheel and tyre to slip back in.
d. Gently push the wheel+motor down, make sure they do not fall out and rip the electric wires. The bungee is meant to hold the motor & wheel and prevent them from just falling.
e. Take the chain of the derailleur. Just enough to push the new tire and tube through (and take the old ones out, of course. I just cut mine because they were too badly damaged.).
f. Fit the tyre on the wheel. Do this gently so you do not pull on the electric cable. Do not forget to put back the chain before you push the wheel back in. You may want to pump up the tire here as well to see if everything is ok.
g. Push the wheel in. Manually tighten the axle nuts a bit. The tensioner can then just be pushed back and fastened folowed by the last nut and bolt.
h. tighten & adjust the break.
check if everything is ok.
hope this helps.
I have added some pictures as atachments. (I think).
I had my first puncture on my Meerkat almost exactly a month after I got it.
I knew the first puncture was looming, I actually thought 1 month was not bad.
2 points about this:
1. Tyre Selection:
There are several good puncture-resistant tyres about. Schwalbe Marathon Plus are good and Continental make good ones. The 26" 2.0 are hard to get, though. Altyernatives are the Schwalbe Marathon Plus ATB 2.0 (more expensive).
In the end I settled for Schwalbe Big Apples because they were in stock. I also liked the schock-absorbancy of the Big Aples, the weight of the battery can give problems with the connection because of all the shocks. The Big Aples will hopefully reduce that effect. I only used the 2.0 ones because they should fit, so I did not try the 2.15 or 2.35 ones. if anybody has trie the 2.35 I'd be interested to know if they fit easily.
2 How to actually change the tyre?
It is not in the manual. I did the following and replaced the tube and tyre in an hour.
a. Hang the rear of the bike above the ground, and stabilize the bike with bungee cords.
b. secure the motor with a bungee cord to the rack, saddle or the rope you hang the bike from.
c. loosen the axle nuts, the chain-tensioner nut (outer one only, if you do not move the inner one it is easier to fit back), the securing bolt between the frame and the plate (onm which the motor is mounted). This is comparable to p.112 in the manual (tensioning the chain) except that you have to loosen the axle nuts as well. Also loosen the brake to allow the wheel and tyre to slip back in.
d. Gently push the wheel+motor down, make sure they do not fall out and rip the electric wires. The bungee is meant to hold the motor & wheel and prevent them from just falling.
e. Take the chain of the derailleur. Just enough to push the new tire and tube through (and take the old ones out, of course. I just cut mine because they were too badly damaged.).
f. Fit the tyre on the wheel. Do this gently so you do not pull on the electric cable. Do not forget to put back the chain before you push the wheel back in. You may want to pump up the tire here as well to see if everything is ok.
g. Push the wheel in. Manually tighten the axle nuts a bit. The tensioner can then just be pushed back and fastened folowed by the last nut and bolt.
h. tighten & adjust the break.
check if everything is ok.
hope this helps.
I have added some pictures as atachments. (I think).
Attachments
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