Quality inverter

cwah

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Jun 3, 2011
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Hello


I bought a little while ago an inverter for my 60v battery:

But after few hours of used it failed and just show the fault light.

Anyone has idea where I can buy a reliable inverter for a 60V battery? Power of 300W is enough. It just has to be reliable.

Thank you
 

Andy-Mat

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Oct 26, 2018
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Hello


I bought a little while ago an inverter for my 60v battery:

But after few hours of used it failed and just show the fault light.

Anyone has idea where I can buy a reliable inverter for a 60V battery? Power of 300W is enough. It just has to be reliable.

Thank you
You might want to supply a bit more detail.
But apparently the reason it failed was that it was built for 48 volts DC input (on the picture only 12 volts by the way!) and your battery delivers 60 volts!
It also only delivers 110VAC, probably 60Hz, standard American mains voltage, or do you live where that is the mains voltage?
For that inverter unit to live longer, you need to drop the battery voltage to 48 volts first...electronically. Not simple, but possible!
regards
Andy
 

cwah

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It's a 48v and deliver 220v. The product is the closest to the one I bought.

But they should be able to manage slight increase in voltage no? A 48V battery fully charged is about 54V.
 

Andy-Mat

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It's a 48v and deliver 220v. The product is the closest to the one I bought.

But they should be able to manage slight increase in voltage no? A 48V battery fully charged is about 54V.
You are asking too much of the unit!

Assuming its 300 watts, then it probably needs around 7 amps at 48 volts to run at 300 watts correctly.
Therefore it will take almost 9 amps at 60 volts, and overheat and possibly damage delicate components.
Andy
 
D

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The spec for the 48V model says input voltage range is 40-61V so you should be OK with your 48V nominal battery.

How much current / power are you drawing out of the inverter and what sort of load was it driving (lights / motor / electronics....)?
 

Andy-Mat

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The spec for the 48V model says input voltage range is 40-61V so you should be OK with your 48V nominal battery.

How much current / power are you drawing out of the inverter and what sort of load was it driving (lights / motor / electronics....)?
Generally speaking, running at the upper end of the allowed voltage, indicates a short life span.
Furthermore, Li-ion batteries, when fully charged, have a far higher actual voltage to their quoted, nominal voltage.
My e-bike battery is quoted as being 36 volts nominal.
But fully charged it is 42 volts.....Around 16.6% more!!!
Assuming that your bike battery is quoted as 60 volts NOMINAL, and it is Li-ion, then the fully charged voltage will be almost 70 volts!!
There is possibly where your problem lies!!
Though I have to admit that I have never heard of a bike battery of 60 volts myself!
regards
Andy
 

cwah

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I need another one.

My speaker is only 150W. It probably has peak power but not much. When looking at power drawing, it's mostly around 30-50W continuous. So really not popping that much power.

I need something else. Would this work AND be reliable?

It's not pure sine wave but maybe it doesn't need for speakers?
 
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So the inverter is powering an audio amplifier????
 

soundwave

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:p check out the alternators and batts
 
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cwah

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You need a pure sine wave inverter otherwise you'll gets lots of interference.
The loudspeaker box uses a class D amplifier
Quote: "A class-D amplifier or switching amplifier is an electronic amplifier in which the amplifying devices (transistors, usually MOSFETs) operate as electronic switches, and not as linear gain devices as in other amplifiers. "
The amplifier is likely to draw very high currents for brief periods and I imagine this is what's causing the inverter to burn out.

You might need to look at replacing the loudspeaker box with one that uses a linear amplifier, maybe there are forums better suited to that interest....
 
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soundwave

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yes it is a active pa speaker with a amp in the back to power the speaker but using a cheap power converter will increase distortion like the speaker will hum when powerd like that and be silent when powerd from a wall socket.

the rated power from what you posted above is 750w but says nothing about the amps it can pump out at that wattage.
 
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D

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yes it is a active pa speaker with a amp in the back to power the speaker but using a cheap power converter will increase distortion like the speaker will hum when powerd like that and be silent when powerd from a wall socket.

the rated power from what you posted above is 750w but says nothing about the amps it can pump out at that wattage.
According to the listing,
Peak power = 150W
RMS power = 120W
Into a 6ohm load this is a peak current of 5A but so what (watt??), it's the peak power being draw from the inverter that matters. Class D amplifiers are relatively efficient, typically 80%+, but instantaneous current could be high particularly if the amplifier is badly designed.

My experiences with cheap Chinese inverters have invariably been bad, over spec'd, poorly designed and poorly made.
 
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cwah

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So which inverter shall i get? I don't have inverter anymore but still have my speaker. So changing speaker does not make sense
 

cwah

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So which inverter shall i get? I don't have inverter anymore but still have my speaker. So changing speaker does not make sense
I don't know, I've no experience with your application.

There are people here with lots of experience with ebikes but probably not so many with experience with portable PAs, maybe there are forums better suited to that interest....