Rear wheel removal

[rog_london]

Hi guys.

I don't have an immediate need to do this, but sooner or later I'll need to do it to fix a puncture or replace the tyre....

I note that the motor cable seems to enter through the axle (the only place it COULD enter I suppose).

Is there a recommended way to remove the rear wheel so as to avoid damaging or straining this cable? In the absence of instructions I'd probably cut the cable ties first and then unplug the motor cable from the controller before detaching the wheel. I pack a few cable ties and a small pair of wire snippers (to cut the cable ties) with my emergency toolkit just in case I get a puncture. These items are not what the average cyclist might carry, but I suspect that without them I'd be stuffed.

Rog.

 

[Phil the drill]

Hi Rog

It's not that difficult to get the rear wheel out. Most punctures can be fixed without removing the wheel, but if you need to change a tyre or inner tube then it is possible to undo the wheel nuts and just drop the wheel enough to slip the old tube or tyre out and the new one in, then re-attach the wheel, completing the job with the wheel in place (best to do all this with the bike upside down rested on the handlebars and saddle). Lifting off the clips holding on the cable will give a little more slack as will removing the cable ties, but for simple jobs as mentioned it is often not necessary. Incidentally when replacing cable ties they don't have to be very tight, leave them loose enough to 'shufffle' the cable through a little and that will help with similar jobs in the future
If you need to do something more significant, e.g. changing the rear cassette, then you will have to open up the controller housing (3 Allen screws) take out the controller plus wiring and undo the connectors from the cable to the rear wheel. It's a bit of a faff, but not really very difficult to do.
Hope this helps.

Cheers, Phil

 

[rog_london]

Hi Rog

It's not that difficult to get the rear wheel out. Most punctures can be fixed without removing the wheel, but if you need to change a tyre or inner tube then it is possible to undo the wheel nuts and just drop the wheel enough to slip the old tube or tyre out and the new one in, then re-attach the wheel, completing the job with the wheel in place (best to do all this with the bike upside down rested on the handlebars and saddle). Lifting off the clips holding on the cable will give a little more slack as will removing the cable ties, but for simple jobs as mentioned it is often not necessary. Incidentally when replacing cable ties they don't have to be very tight, leave them loose enough to 'shufffle' the cable through a little and that will help with similar jobs in the future
If you need to do something more significant, e.g. changing the rear cassette, then you will have to open up the controller housing (3 Allen screws) take out the controller plus wiring and undo the connectors from the cable to the rear wheel. It's a bit of a faff, but not really very difficult to do.
Hope this helps.

Cheers, Phil

Thanks for that Phil. On the one I have (recent model) I'm sure it would be necessary to cut the cable ties at least, as there are no clips and no slack either, so moving the rear wheel without freeing the cable would be very likely to cause problems.

I remember somebody mentioning in a previous post that the cable to the motor was fouling the wheel on his 905, and the guys at Wisper don't miss things like that, so I suspect it's likely that the motor cable is now rather more effectively secured to make sure that cannot happen.

I've already had the covers off round the controller, as I needed to disconnect a wire which was preventing the throttle from operating unless you were pedalling. Mine was accidentally 'pedelec only' out of the box, and the Wisper people were kind enough to point me in the appropriate direction.

Rog.