Help! Screen goes on but nothing happens when pulling trigger throttle

mt247

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Aug 12, 2020
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So I fried fuse(between battery and controller) from my escooter and had to replace it. Now the screen turns on but nothing happens when pulling the throttle trigger. What could be reason for it? Should I replace throttle or controller or both? And where to get similar ones?

Screen turns on:
IMG_20210410_151855.jpg
Nothing happens when using throttle:
IMG_20210410_175344.jpg

Blown fuse:
IMG_20200815_163238.jpg
IMG_20200817_174540.jpg
controller:
IMG_20200817_180548.jpg

Fixed fuse:
IMG_20210410_175300.jpg

Would something like this work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Display-Thumb-Throttle-2-in1-Speedometer-Manual-Control-Panel-for-E-Bike-Scooter/114496928756 ?
 
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Deleted member 33385

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Is the throttle a rheostat or a potentiometer? I should open one up, to find out. Can a short circuit in the throttle, blow the fuse in the controller?
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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The throttle is a hall sensor. It can't do anything to blow a fuse and is not the cause of your issue.

You need to explain the circumstances in which your fuse blew for us to get to the cause. My wild guess would be that you've popped a mosfet in the controller.
 

mt247

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Aug 12, 2020
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The throttle is a hall sensor. It can't do anything to blow a fuse and is not the cause of your issue.

You need to explain the circumstances in which your fuse blew for us to get to the cause. My wild guess would be that you've popped a mosfet in the controller.
I was just driving it on hot summer day 10 months ago and suddenly it lost all power and stopped and the screen didn't turn on(I was cruising at max speed). At home I opened it up and the fuse looked like that.
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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The melted fuse is obvious to much heat occurred as vfr has mentioned a mosfet in the controller may have blown. You can test the controller mosfets via the phase wires using a meter.
No battery power is needed, set meter to 20k or 200k setting. With a meter Black probe to Black controller gnd wire and Red in turn to each of the controller phase wires, each reading should be the same of very close 7- 15k ohms. Any reading that is way out means a faulty/blown mosfet and blown controller.

If the above is all good then try the next test.

Next try the reverse Red probe to controller Red V+ input and Black probe to phases again one should see three measurements all reading the same but not as the previous test, any reading is good as long as ZERO doesn't register. You may not get a constant reading but a raising reading as each phase is probed. A zero reading means a faulty mosfet
 
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mt247

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Aug 12, 2020
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The melted fuse is obvious to much heat occurred as vfr has mentioned a mosfet in the controller may have blown. You can test the controller mosfets via the phase wires using a meter.
No battery power is needed, set meter to 20k or 200k setting. With a meter Black probe to Black controller gnd wire and Red in turn to each of the controller phase wires, each reading should be the same of very close 7- 15k ohms. Any reading that is way out means a faulty/blown mosfet and blown controller.

If the above is all good then try the next test.

Next try the reverse Red probe to controller Red in put and Black probe to phases again one should see three measurements all reading the same but not as the previous test, any reading is good as long as ZERO doesn't register. You may not get a constant reading but a raising reading as each phase is probed. A zero reading means a faulty mosfet
I don't have multimeter, need to get one I think(ebay ones any good? ). What then if faulty mosfet? Should I just get new controller? Any idea where I could get similar one?

Are the phase wires those thick yellow, green and blue wires?

I was thinking about getting this auto range multimeter, what do you think?
 
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Nealh

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Phase wires yes three thick coloured wires.
Gnd is thick Black, V+ is thick Red.

Any meter will work ideally I prefer one with a beep mode as well. The cheap sometimes suffer with the probes wire coming adrift if they are twisted to often. I try and prevent this by using hot glue on the wire entry to prevent such.
 
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mt247

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Aug 12, 2020
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Phase wires yes three thick coloured wires.
Gnd is thick Black, V+ is thick Red.

Any meter will work ideally I prefer one with a beep mode as well. The cheap sometimes suffer with the probes wire coming adrift if they are twisted to often. I try and prevent this by using hot glue on the wire entry to prevent such.
What kind of multimeter you use? Any recommendations?
 

Nealh

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Nealh

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For capacity I wire in a watt meter to gauge overall battery capacity between full charge and lvc, you will never get full capacity as the battery should be discharged so low if you want longevity.
 
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Deleted member 33385

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For capacity I wire in a watt meter to gauge overall battery capacity between full charge and lvc, you will never get full capacity as the battery should be discharged so low if you want longevity.

Sorry I meant for measuring/testing capacitance of capacitors.
 

Nealh

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For individual cell readings I don't bother too much and rely on buying genuine from reliable top resources but if I have too I use a basic battery charger discharger with a few functions like the Littokala type.
 

mt247

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Aug 12, 2020
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For individual cell readings I don't bother too much and rely on buying genuine from reliable top resources but if I have too I use a basic battery charger discharger with a few functions like the Littokala type.
Thanks, ordered multimeter now. I'll get back to the thread once I get it.
 
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Deleted member 33385

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Thanks, ordered multimeter now. I'll get back to the thread once I get it.
By the way thank you mt247 - you and Soundwave going on and on about helmets with jawguards, caused me to buy one, and it saved my handsome features from damage the other week. Bike helmets without jawguards are rubbish!

 
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