Wisper Urgent help with Wisper 805FE needed

[Drageriux]

Hello fellows. I recently bought used Wisper 805FE bike and encountered a problem. Although my battery is fully charged, display shows capacity level blinking on lowest level, and electric motor doesn't respond. Lights are not turning on as well. I attached a few files and a short video with details:

Problem details <---- video on vimeo

Also, I've studied aforementioned Wisper model a little and noticed, that mine has missing brake cut off cables. Could it be the reason why I am encountering this problem with non responsive electronics? If so, buying those cables and attaching them should do the trick, or the problem is far more difficult?

Would be really grateful for your help with this matter, as I am riding my bike to work almost each day, and the terrain is quite hilly, especially backways

Should you need any specific details, feel free to ask here, as I will be checking for new posts and problem solutions each day.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Hi, I remember that model well! It was a good one, do you know it’s age? It looks about 6 to 8 years? If the battery is the original I would expect that’s the issue. Could you fully charge it and measure the voltage? I don’t think the cut outs would be responsible as they have been completely disconnected.

All the best, David

 

[Nealh]

David has it covered always check voltage with a meter and post the readings, leds only light up nice colours they don't tell you much otherwise.

 

[Drageriux]

Thank you David and Nealh. Will check the voltage and will post readings in the nearest time. Have a nice day!

 

[Drageriux]

Morning guys. My father helped me measure fully charged battery voltage with a clamp meter and it shown 39 volts. So I suppose battery works good. Could you please give me any advice which bike parts to investigate further? Can't wait to get my wisper operational

Appreaciate your help. Have a nice day.

 

[Nealh]

39v is very poor, if that is the most it will charge to then it is either wildly out of balance or the cells are knackered and only destined for recycling.
A 36v battery in good working order fully charger will be 41.4v - 42v.

39v won't even balance out if you leave on the charger for several days, you can try opening it to rebalance the cell groups manually but likely you need a re -cell or a new battery.

 

[Drageriux]

So, we've dismantled the LED display and noticed that that one of transistors (A1013 Y-A43) was damaged and thus overheating, so we replaced it with analogue A1013. Alas, the problem still remains. I doubt there is a problem with battery, since battery low voltage safeguard is 31.5V, and mine battery is 39V when fully charged. I guess the blinking display LED lights should display a meaning, error code I mean. Maybe someone knows if there is truth in that?

 

[Gavin]

I doubt there is a problem with battery, since battery low voltage safeguard is 31.5V, and mine battery is 39V when fully charged.

If it's only 39v fully charged (when it should be approx 42v) then it's probably dropping significantly under load and may be hitting the LVC.

An 8 year old battery is a museum piece unless it's been cared for meticulously (which very few are).

Have you got any way of measuring the voltage under load?

 

[Drageriux]

If it's only 39v fully charged (when it should be approx 42v) then it's probably dropping significantly under load and may be hitting the LVC.

An 8 year old battery is a museum piece unless it's been cared for meticulously (which very few are).

Have you got any way of measuring the voltage under load?

We did the measuring. Under 4,4A load, voltage was 39,9V.

 

[vfr400]

You can run the bike without the control panel if you short the red and blue wires that run to it. In that case, you get level 1 PAS and normal throttle operation.

With the control panel open, you should check the voltage arriving at it between the red and black wires. If you get 39v and the panel doesn't work, it's probably faulty.
When you switch the panel on with its power switch, it latches the red wire to the blue wire via a transistor. The blue wire then powers the controller pcb. It's feasible that there's a short in the controller that's dragging the battery down. Check what happens to the battery voltage when you press the power switch.

 

[Drageriux]

You can run the bike without the control panel if you short the red and blue wires that run to it. In that case, you get level 1 PAS and normal throttle operation.

With the control panel open, you should check the voltage arriving at it between the red and black wires. If you get 39v and the panel doesn't work, it's probably faulty.
When you switch the panel on with its power switch, it latches the red wire to the blue wire via a transistor. The blue wire then powers the controller pcb. It's feasible that there's a short in the controller that's dragging the battery down. Check what happens to the battery voltage when you press the power switch.

So we tested voltage arriving between red and black wires. We got 41V. Also, we tried to short red and blue wires, but motor did not start to work. Holo sensor socket from controller (red and black wires) shows 0V. The controller I am using is WCN0028. Maybe there is a way to check the motor separately? Or the controller?

 

[Drageriux]

Check what happens to the battery voltage when you press the power switch.

Battery voltage remains same - 41V.

 

[vfr400]

The blue wire goes back to the controller, then through a big resistor, then to the 12v regulator. One branch from the 12v goes to the mosfets and the other to the 5v regulator. The output of the 5v regulator is common to the throttle, motor halls, PAS and controller CPU.
Check the voltage between ground and where the blue lands. That's with red and blue shorted. After that, check the output voltage from the two regulators.

 

[Drageriux]

So we opened control panel. I add photo of it, as well as photo of controller. We are not sure where to look for problem. We checked the battery. It's ok. Now there are 3 possible problem areas: control panel, controller or the motor.

 

[vfr400]

It looks burnt around where the blue wire is soldered.

Regarding the transistor you replaced, does it have a track going directly to the blue wire?

 

[Drageriux]

It looks burnt around where the blue wire is soldered.

Regarding the transistor you replaced, does it have a track going directly to the blue wire?

Thanks for your kind help. I'm sorry I am no electric person at all, but my father knows a little bit of this and that. So he passed a few questions, which you could maybe answer. He says we need somehow to check if these parts of the bike are working:
1) electric motor
2) controller
3) control panel

The most important ofc is motor, so is there any way to check if the motor is working good? Preferably to check it somehow without the need of controller and control panel. Maybe there is a trick to that, simply using the battery and the motor itself only? It would be best if you could forward any pics or links to videos, so we could understand better.

Will be waiting for you answer.

Cheers and have a nice day!

 

[vfr400]

Thanks for your kind help. I'm sorry I am no electric person at all, but my father knows a little bit of this and that. So he passed a few questions, which you could maybe answer. He says we need somehow to check if these parts of the bike are working:
1) electric motor
2) controller
3) control panel

The most important ofc is motor, so is there any way to check if the motor is working good? Preferably to check it somehow without the need of controller and control panel. Maybe there is a trick to that, simply using the battery and the motor itself only? It would be best if you could forward any pics or links to videos, so we could understand better.

Will be waiting for you answer.

Cheers and have a nice day!

If you want to solve the problem quickly and efficiently, do the tests that I suggested and answer the question in my last post. Forget about the motor. It can't work if you have no 5v., neither can the controller.