Yosepower hub kits.

quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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You can leave the freewheel on if you can get at the side-plate screws.

It's easier to test the halls in the controller as long as you're careful not to short anything with the probes. Use a helper to turn the wheel backwards while you measure.
Hello. My controller has three metal pieces which are screwed in behide the mosfets to apply pressure to case. If I remove the side screws these will all drop out. Ill be able to put the side ones back in but not the middle as I won't be able to get my fingers in to push it against the case.

I had a quick look at removing with the freewheel on however the low cog might be too large. Ill check later thank you.
 

quackstar84

Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
179
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How are you testing the fets with power ? If so it is wrong, with the fets one would better off discharging the capacitor.
One needs 5v for the halls though.
Hello. It's the power from the meter which charges capacitors. He says this at the 2:20min mark .
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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Hello. My controller has three metal pieces which are screwed in behide the mosfets to apply pressure to case. If I remove the side screws these will all drop out. Ill be able to put the side ones back in but not the middle as I won't be able to get my fingers in to push it against the case.

I had a quick look at removing with the freewheel on however the low cog might be too large. Ill check later thank you.
For that type, the lid is normally detachable. Remove both end-plates, then see if the top slides out of the bottom. The join is about 6mm down the side. You can't see it until you start sliding.
 
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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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typical
For that type, the lid is normally detachable. Remove both end-plates, then see if the top slides out of the bottom. The join is about 6mm down the side. You can't see it until you start sliding.
typical... the cog is in the way .

Excellent, I got it open. The lid popped off cheers.

Using my untrained eye none of the components look damaged and the cables are fine.
 

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vfr400

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That's the three hall wires behind the top big purple capacitor. Test between any ground while everything is switched on and you rotate the wheel backwards.
 
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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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That's the three hall wires behind the top big purple capacitor. Test between any ground while everything is switched on and you rotate the wheel backwards.
Is the case it's self a ground? I know about grounding myself when I build pc to avoid static electricity. So black on hall wires and red on a red cable which goes towards the hall sensors it's self ? Ill look for a video.
 
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quackstar84

Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
179
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Excuse all my posting, I hope im not bugging you with emails or notifications. I took a better photo of the controller's wires. So it is this group i need to probe?

Is the white wire the speed sensor cable as it no longer works. I have to peddle in order to see my speed.

Thank you again for your help. I very much appreciate it.
 

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vfr400

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Use the thick black battery wire as ground. if you have the normal bullet connectos, you can stuff your probe under the sleeve so that you have both hands free for everything else. You only need to test the blue, green and yellow wires - the ones you've indicated. there's no danger of electic shock or electrocution. The voltage is too low.

The white (X5) is the speed sensor. You can test that too while you're at it.

Before you start, you could check that you have 5v on the red one (HE) because if you don't have 5v there, you'd be wasting your time checking the others.

There's nothing around those wires that would cause a problem if shorted, so you don't have to worry about slipping.
 
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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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Use the thick black battery wire as ground. if you have the normal bullet connectos, you can stuff your probe under the sleeve so that you have both hands free for everything else. You only need to test the blue, green and yellow wires - the ones you've indicated. there's no danger of electic shock or electrocution. The voltage is too low.

The white (X5) is the speed sensor. You can test that too while you're at it.

Before you start, you could check that you have 5v on the red one (HE) because if you don't have 5v there, you'd be wasting your time checking the others.

There's nothing around those wires that would cause a problem if shorted, so you don't have to worry about slipping.
Excellent. Thank you for the explanation. Ill try it once I can get someone to help me.
 

quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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Hello everyone . So I managed to test the red, white and three other hall sensors via probing their connection on the board. Each one had an voltage of 5.08v and when I span the wheel backwards none of the hall sensors voltage lowered or zeroed out. I tested with everything connected and the kt-lcd3 switched on. So all three halls are dead? thanks for explaining everything upto now.
 

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vfr400

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4.25v is OK. The blue, yellow and green should switch on and off around 10 times per revolution.

It's quite unusual for all three halls to fail together. The only way that can happen is if you have a damaged motor cable and the red shorted to one of the phase wires.

Check your motor cable for damage where it comes out of the axle.
 
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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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Hello vfr400. Hope you're well. I removed the motor cable and found all three hall sensor cables were still at 5.08v which I take is normal? However am I still close to the board for the probes to detect the switches turning on and off? Would it make a difference if I tested with further away such as with an extension cable cut in half and link together as was one of the other methods suggested. Ive had a good look at the cable going into the motor, it looks good. So I think it's close to where I need to pop the hood of the motor open? Cheers.
 

vfr400

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The only test you need to do is connect everything and switch on. check that you have approx 5v on the red wire then check blue, green and yellow while you turn the motor wheel slowly backwards. If the halls don't switch on and off, something is wrong. My first guess would be that your motor connector is not in far enough.
 
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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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The only test you need to do is connect everything and switch on. check that you have approx 5v on the red wire then check blue, green and yellow while you turn the motor wheel slowly backwards. If the halls don't switch on and off, something is wrong. My first guess would be that your motor connector is not in far enough.
Yes the cable not being plugged in far enough would make sense. I've taken photos of the plug fully seated. One of the photos is to benefit others as there are two lines to push up too.
 

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vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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Yes the cable not being plugged in far enough would make sense. I've taken photos of the plug fully seated. One of the photos is to benefit others as there are two lines to push up too.
That looks OK.

One more test you can do from outside the motor. Check that you have 5v between the red and the black in the controller where the ones that come from the motor cable are soldered. if that checks out, you're going to have to open the motor to see what's going on in there and do some measurements at that end of the cable.
 

quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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That looks OK.

One more test you can do from outside the motor. Check that you have 5v between the red and the black in the controller where the ones that come from the motor cable are soldered. if that checks out, you're going to have to open the motor to see what's going on in there and do some measurements at that end of the cable.
They come out at 4.25v ill pop the hub open and if I see anything iffy ill show photos. Thanks