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Sounds promising for cycle locks https://newatlas.com/materials/proteus-non-cuttable-bike-lock-armor/?fbclid=IwAR1c2lkEiQMtGh8aWHb8ZpDI4eMhwbqOjLhMqNzgrXU1WC8ME5odN8Q8ysE

Perhaps they could make mid-drive chains from it. Could eliminate the "Single Point Of Failure"!

Why bother. The single point of failure (the chain) fails so infrequently, and the tool and part to repair it on the go is so small and light, it's not a real concern. A bigger concern for me is the generally poor performance and unnatural pedal action of hub motor/cadence bikes. Having had a front hub bike I can't see myself downgrading back to one any time soon. We've had a couple of posters with mid drive motors whose cassette/chainring has worn out in only a few hundred miles. Whilst we've never gotten to the bottom of that problem it's not the fact it's a mid drive that's the real issue, its (IMO) cheap knock off or second hand parts. Although I imagine a mid drive motor might make low quality parts a bigger issue. Darren

Reminds me of the joke: if flight recorders are indestructible, why don't they make planes out of the same stuff? Quite a few sceptical comments though in the link above.

Enjoy yourself and I hope you are having a great & happy time.

They are awful! The only issue with an arm is in the dark. Decent reflective material on arms or gloves is better than any indicator imho

Looks like a gimmick, I think I will stick with my arm in a hi viz. I looked at these gloves a while back and reckon they would be a better buy if you want some kind of indicator light. https://pimpmybikeretail.co.uk/product/bike-gloves/

First I think he would have served himself far better getting some mirrors or at least turning to look round behind more than the shots indicate he does. I forgo one hand gripping on the bars and very "pointedly" signal to any involved party exactly where I intend turning, then only do it when I know it is safe to do so. Riding at manoeuvring speed single handed IMO presents little risk. I rarely ride in dark enough conditions where in a drivers headlights they would not clearly see my arm clad in Hi Vis top, stuck way out. I also feel in day light conditions, most drivers would not notice something as novel as a little plastic arm pointing out, seeking something far more indicative of what the cyclist intend to do. I will wait till they are mainstream and so being looked out for by motorists, probably that's a longer wait than I can give. Then I also don't like adding clobber like them to my bikes.

I think the concept of these is good, but the application is dreadful. they are far too bulky in my opinion. The directional arrow seems to be always visible. Drivers won’t know the difference of them being stowed and deployed. A much simpler set of orange flashing lights would be more than enough. And these already exist! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184363865948

Great bikes, nearly 3 years with my 905se and 2500mls and still going strong.....

I use the Gaadi permanently in my Norco 700c rear wheel and my Boardman 700c tourer, it is good enough for a fit and forget solution until you get a flat. They don't prevent them but makes changing easier without removing the wheel. My Boardman is used on rough tracks, N & S Downs on any off piste route. Buy two fit one and carry a spare repair any puncture at leisure along the route or at home, SJS Cycles I paid £7.95 each +p&p.

"bike without single point of failure" ??? There is of course no bike without any "single point of failure", the frame, the forks, either wheel, and even a simple puncture, the steering, etc; it is just that some get hung up on the drive and choose to look no further. And the drive might be far from the biggest issue to live with, the bike still ought to be "scooted" along reasonably well compared to say one with a collapsed wheel or fractured fork, even the quite common puncture. It is going to be a fruitless quest to invent a "bike" without single point of failure issues. Accepting that and minimising their occurence, impact or time to correct are more rewarding areas to address.

She's only 64kg. It'll last forever.

This company does shopping trolleys that fit on a bike. https://letsgettrollied.co.uk/shop/bike-trolley/

I used panniers and a top bag for years but found they were floppy when empty and softer food could get squashed. When I wanted to go on longer rides the panniers were an annoyance. I considered removable ones but they were asking to get stolen. I now use a trailer (with a Cube Hybrid touring pro too) with a large plastic box. Put the box in the shopping trolley, pack it when paying and just lift it in and out of the trailer. I did have to find a different route to the shops and a different parking space but that was all sorted by trial and error in a few trips. Darren

I think that the Cobalt question hits the news because of Tesla's deal with the Chinese. Elon Musk attracts so much media attention so journalists amplify anything he said. However, the gist of the deal with the Chinese is to replace cylindrical cells with cheaper prismatic cells - apparently, they charge him only $80 a kWH. So suddenly, a 100kWH battery becomes very affordable. That's enough to send an earthquake through the car industry.

Already done years ago, the Swizzbee made in Switzerland uses a high mounted motor just by the seatpost, driving the left hand side of the rear wheel with a toothed belt. The right hand side is driven by a chain derailleur and a differential balances the two drives into the wheel. This link explains how that works And this link is to member KirstinS post when he bought an old one .

Just don't ever lose your key!

This one above should be ok! Really every bike type/manufacture/motor style have their strengths and weaknesses. Just the same as when you buy a car you look around at reviews, talk to people who have the model you're after and then make an informed decision based on preference, risk, support and necessary features. I think its unfair to label certain drive styles as inferior or "terrible" as I've heard lately. Sure they can all have their faults, they are machines at the end of the day. They do break down! When I worked at Audi certain 2.0 TFSI engines burnt oil. No idea which ones, just luck of the draw. The fix? Replace all pistons and con-rods. Some even needing a new engine. Of course Audi would foot the bill if the car was in warranty, and even give contributions to the repair if the car was outside of warranty. Other than that it was a great engine, and people still bought them in their masses, taking into account the educated risk that you could get a lemon!

My Tweet oldgroaner@oldgroaner · 54s Replying to @TheNewEuropean Cover your arses, eh? but it won't work, you stand condemned by the comments in The Three wise Monkeys Russian Interference Report Where The Referendum is concerned Hear no evil See no Evil Speak no Evil

Or just have enough trailer capacity: http://www.flecc.uk/p/images/double_trailer_3.jpg

Most of our bike panniers are floppy and can crush soft grocery items, especially on poor roads. The Dutch who have always been utility cyclists know far more about this than any other nation so make sensible, practical pannier bags. I bought mine ages ago from one of the Dutch shops trading here which I use on any size of bike. They also afford a handy large platform for bulky items on top: http://www.flecc.uk/t/images/panniers.jpg http://www.flecc.uk/p/images/panniers.jpg

Hi Colin, Both are capable of hill climbing, the higher torque hubs are pretty awesome. Cranks drives have both the advantage and disadvantage of using the gearing. Using the bikes gearing to keep the motor in it's rev range ensures cool efficient running and battery use. Does require some mechanical sympathy from the rider to achieve this. However it means that steep hills can be climbed at really low speed without straining the motor. The disadvantage is that, working through the gears, the riders cadence is dictated by the motors requirements - the two don't always coincide. Also the combination of motor and rider power through the drive train means that gear changing has to be carefully managed, especially under strain on hills, and again requires mechanical sympathy from the rider. Some crank drives with internal controllers do seem to suffer from controller burn out. Hubs are a less technical ride, cadence being set purely to the riders requirement. They really are point and go and are robust and simple to repair, but seem pretty bullet proof. Hill climbing speed needs to be kept, as much as possible, at or above 50% of the motors top speed ( so around 8mph). Living in West Wales I achieve this on most hills (24 gear hybrid) with occaisional speeds down to 6mph on short really steep bits. My motor (Ezee mk2) has never even felt warm, however the controller does get hot. There are different winding codes for hub motors which determine the rpm achievable. Those wound for lower rpm will develop better hill climbing torque at the expense of top speed. There is endless debate about which is better. Both work well and, in the end, it's a rider choice. Hope this gives you a start.

It irks me that on a cycling forum so many people cannot spell 'pedal'. 'Peddle' and 'peddling' mean selling stuff. No big deal, I suppose, but then it's not that hard to get it right, either.

Whoever it was Cummings is having them traced to offer them a Government post , as talent like that deserves reward

poor is right.. and I will have to endure the baguettes, the lucious tomatoes , and the weeds in the garden for a few more weeks ...

I'd seen that, but it seemed none of those involved are French or in France. Predictably Germany and Africa were involved. .

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/rockrider-e-st500-water-ingress.37687/#post-571440 A post by another member made me think (it happens every now and then) and to ask ... Any engineer out there like to estimate what a bike without a single point of failure would look like? How much would it weight?

This isn't playing well for Cummings little Empire

Differnt motors have different winding speeds and different internal reduction ratios, which affect how they behave. Only the Xiongda has switchable high and low internal ratios, but there are no OEM bikes in this country that use it, though you can buy it as a kit from China. At 64kg, she doesn't need anything like that. It suits a 100kg rider who has to deal with very steep hills. I think you're over-specifying for her. Virtually any light-weight hub-motored ebike will be able to give her what she wants. Some deliver the assistance in a smoother way than others. The cheaper ones are not normally as good as the more expensive ones.

The Swizzbee rear wheel removal can be a pain so I use a Gaadi tube and Marathon tyres. The rear axle nuts have to be loctited on other wise it flies off due to the way the Sram hub with differential works.

She is concerned about bike weight. Obviously, the motor would normally be making that pretty irrelevant, but the nightmare scenario would be to run out of battery power on the wrong side of a huge hill. Weight would be a slight issue getting the bike on and off trains and over the small step in and out of her house. IMO 23 kg is not a showstopper weight. I have wheeled some bikes weighing well over 30 kg and they felt damn heavy to me, and I am a 6' 1"/ 14 stone man. That kind of thing would be way too heavy, but I haven't looked at many bikes over 24-25 kg. TBH though, 64 kg rider + 3 kg of extra stuff (tools, food, drink, jacket etc.) + 23 kg bike is only about 8% heavier than 64 + 3 + 16.5. If I were choosing a bike for myself, I would rather have 16.5 kg than 23 kg, but I would rather have more battery than I needed than less than I needed otherwise I wouldn't bother with an ebike in the first place! The Juicy lift would appeal on weight, but not so much on range and price. I liked the look of the Whoosh Faro and it was more in my pal's price range. I know that the internal battery is fairly limited but it would probably do for shortish local hilly rides. (Range?) I read that there might be an option for adding an external battery later, but then we would be back with pricier and heavier so going straight for the Rambla would have made more sense. I saw a few bikes at £1,500+ that looked interesting but my friend is reluctant to spend that much. Availability is a factor too. I don't know what timescale my friend is thinking of for her purchase but I doubt that she will ride in the winter so she'd want to buy sooner rather than later. Oh, the other thing that I forgot to mention is that she hates pedalling quickly. I have ridden up moderate climbs with her on her unassisted bike but she normally hops off at the first sign of a steep ramp. I tell her that she hasn't even bothered to use the smallest ring on the triple and she tells me that she hates the feeling of her legs whizzing round and hardly making any progress. She'd probably want to be pedalling an ebike at 40-60 rpm so that would have to be taken into account with torque, motor noise etc.

that bike has only 10.4AH battery though.

At only 10 stone (64 kg) a hub-motor will have more than enough torque. I use the rule that you should use hub-motors for roads and light trails, and crank motors for proper off-road stuff. She might like this one, which is only 17kg and good for 40 to 50 miles. It has the Aikema motor that's a really good climber because of its high internal reduction ratio. https://www.juicybike.com/electric-bikes/lift

it was first on sale before the lockdown and sold out more quickly than we expected. My guess it was due to the Covid effect. The next batch arrives end of August.

Love the look of that Swizzbee! It seems completely over engineered but so cool! Must have taken quite a lot of thought to get the belt and the chains RPM to match. I can't get my head round how it works, think it might be something to do with magic!

Hi welcome Treat the bike to a service as you would with any bike And enjoy the build

Hi welcome and happy hunting

Have much admired your step-ladder trailer before , but was thinking more side car style with the supermarket trolley , bad camber would be interesting ...

Comms error can be any where, it is often a fault on the 5v line. So may not just be confined to the display or cable. Controller 5v regulator could be at fault on the PCB or any 5v ancillary line.

They need to tread very carefully with this. If they introduce a system which holds MPs to standards similar to those expected from the wider public, there may not be anyone left in the HoC. Most MPs would not be able to attain “general public” levels of integrity. They should be looking at introducing a lower standard for MPs with a bespoke developmental plan to enable them to work towards achieving the integrity possessed by the average Joe.

Woosh sells the 85SX, which I'm sure he wouldn't if he hadn't tested it out well. https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits 85SX 2.0kgs 100mm cassette 40NM AIKEMA lightweight rear motor wheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims

I wouldn't write off the Bafang SWX02 geared hub for hills with a decent 17Ah battery.

This is a good article about herd immunity from the BBC. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-53433824

Better than $hitting in a burger box. Sunbathers flee seafront as 'person cooking in beach hut' sparks fire https://mol.im/a/8541533

I think stocking them was against his religion! Doesn't seem to have impacted his business. Seems to do OK as he has taken over an old scandinavian supermarket and seems to sell a lot of high end Haibike & Lapierre. His attitude did make me want to shop elsewhere.

I am in my mid 70’s in my younger, fitter days I used to enjoy days out leisure cycling and off road mountain biking. However as the years have caught up I can now only take my dog for a walk. As I now suffer from cardio vascular disease, I find walking any long distance without a rest problematic, and steepish hills a no go. That is until I purchased recently a Volt Axis Shimano Steps bike. WOW distance now no problem, hills, what hills and the icing on the cake my dog comes along and loves it also. Win Win for me

Thank you all for your help, I found a guy at www.performancelinebearings.com who had the part, he also does repairs on most Ebike (Middle) motors cheaper and quicker than your dealers.

The only one that affects PAS power is C14, which you have set to medium. I'm not sure if that setting affects the ramping up of the power or the total power. Either way, try turning it up to maximum (4?) and see if it makes a difference. Please let us Know. Your only unusual setting is P5=0, which makes the battery display jump up and down instantly. Normal would be a value of about 18 to make it behave more like a fuel gauge,

No, that is based on personal experience with Woosh (XF07 front kit for tandem) and their excellent service, plus second hand experiences you will see throughout this forum of good service, good quality bikes, and value for money from Woosh and Wisper. Also most parts on those bikes are pretty standard and should be easy to repair (and if necessary fairly cheap to replace) for some time to come. Oxygen are another company that shows up well, but as far as I know a little more expensive still.