Benjahmin

Controller arrived today, so that's 10 days to come from China. Can't get to it at the moment as we have house guests. However, will the current display settings transfer to the new controller, or will I have reset them all?

Hold your horses, don't go spending money yet. Displays and controllers are normally bought as a pair, this guarantee's that they work together. As it does not turn on at all there may be some testing to be done, do you have a digital volt meter? D8veh is the real expert here, I'd listen to him.

Can't see from your photo's, but it's likely that the control unit is built into the battery base. Need more details (photo's etc) to give precise help. Generally speaking it is not possible to replace just a display as they are paired with the specific controller. Don't despair the costs are not horrendous and it's likely you will end up with a much better control system. Need a picture of the whole bike, detail of display, battery and motor with any numbers on them. Also give details of what the bike is or isn't doing as fault finding may get round whatever it is.

It's legal because the power output by the controller has nothing to do with the 'Maximum rated power' of the motor. The manufacturer tests and rates the motor and labels it as 250w to be legal, But a motor does not consume a fixed wattage as, say, a light bulb does. It will utilise whatever current is fed into it and will destroy itself if that current is too high. My own hub powered bike displays 750w in maximum power up hill. Still legal if all the labeling is correct. By the way, 1012 miles for a motor is rubbish. My first hub did around 15,000 in 8 years and was only changed because it wasn't strictly legal.

Just ordered a new controller from TBK using chinapost. We'll see how long that takes. Let's hope the new one's 'proper'.

Been out for a good ride with P3 set to 0 - so speed control. The ride started on a shared use ex railway track, so relatively flat. System was well behaved and gave various speeds as expected. However this didn't last. As the ride got into some serious up and down things started to get confusing. In, say, pas 3 on the flat I'd get around 12/13 mph - perfectly acceptable. Once going down a hill over the main cut off the power would not cut in till a very low level (5 or 6 mph). Varying the pas levels did not make any difference leaving me not knowing what speed any pas level was going to give me. Also the 'gremlin' was still fully operational, leaving me with little or no power at critical points. You may also expect that riding below the speed for any particular pas setting would give you full power. Not a bit of it. The only pas setting giving me a full 700+ watts was level 5. The other settings seemed to give a wattage around the same as those given in current control. I will say that on the flattish track riding on pas 3 gave me a pleasant 12/13mph and a lot of the time I was riding above this so consuming little or no power. I can see this giving a much higher range. Also level 2 was giving around 10mph which is what my misses seems to like riding at, so I'll be using speed control when riding with her. However ,as we come into main bike riding season, I'm heartily fed up with this and I think I'm going to bite the bullet and order another on before we can't get them anymore. If the new one behaves the same it'll go back quickly.

My question would be, 'Why buy a Bosch powered bike?'. If you're looking for a different bike anyway why not get a nice tourer and put a conversion kit on it, thereby circumnavigating all the difficulties thrown up by trying to hack the Bosch system. You can then run as large or as many batteries as you want/need, either in parallel or swopping them over as they become empty. I have run two batteries, via a Y splitter, for a few years. It stresses each battery less (as each takes around 50% of current load), reduces voltage sag and increases range. Also good quality generic batteries are way cheaper than any Bosch battery and the bike and kit itself will be much cheaper.

I read through the thread, as far as I can see the guy Sandwich only turns up once and gives no indication of batch numbers. My german isn't up to much but it seems like similar answers are being tried as those offered to me on this forum. Particularly the point about the motor never actually stopping but not giving power over the cut off. It looked like what the OP was saying was exactly the symptoms I have, albeit on a speed pedelec. Thanks for the offer Saneagle, I'll see how the speed control performs in the interim.

Just set P3 to 0. Certainly gives differing speeds and may work better when I'm out with the missus on her Big Bear. Should be able to better match her speed. Only went to the village shop so not sure if this circumvents my problem. From what I saw on this short run, I think not but I'll see on the next outing.

P1-168, P2 - 1 I think, throttle acting as walk assist then full when pedalling. P3-1, P4-1, P5-13, C1-07, C2-0, C3-8, C4-1 (see above) C5-09, C6-3, C7-0, C8-0, C9-0, C10-n, C11-0, C12-4, C13-0, C14-3 Thanks Guerney

A provocative title, I know. Those who've been around a while may remember my system not coming back on power if I go over the cutoff speed and continue to pedal and/or forget to operate the brake cut off. And it's still doing it - if anything it's worse. Today, whilst admiring the wild flowers and stunning views, I forgot to pull the brake on a down ramp. This left me, again, with no power on the other side. Power cut in at some random point (I've never been able to ascertain parameters for this) and slowly ramped up from a lowly 60w to full 700w so slowly that I was down to about 6mph by the time I was getting usefull power. Result is that most of the time the speedo is getting more attention than the country side I'm riding through. To add to this the speed cut off, that was nicely set at 15.5mph, today seemed to have spontaneously altered to something like 14.8mph. I've altered nothing since my last ride a few days ago. I'm really hacked off with it. I have a suspicion that something in the controller may have been heat damaged when I was previously trying to run a 48v 328rpm motor at 36v in my 700c wheel. Don't ask why, suffice to say it was an abysmal failure. I'm now running a 36v motor correctly. I'm running an AKM128 (250w label), T09S controller (set at 20A max) and lcd3 display. I've tried different pas detector. All sorts of different settings. Speed registration matches a gps satnav, so P1 should be right. I'm on the verge of ordering another controller but thought I'd give one more thing a go. Which setting is it to change to speed control? I know it's going to be less subtle but it's what I'm used to from my Ezee days. Just one more thing. I'm pretty sure the motor is whining more than when it was new. This is a smooth sound that continues after cutoff. There was some thought, from Saneagle, that the motor core was continuing to rotate when no power was applied, thus making the controller think it was over speed ?!?. Some thought that internal grease may be missing or too thick. Possible?

+one for the font being faint, small and not easily readable even with me best glasses. (OO look, bold makes a real difference) I've always liked pedelecs for it's ease of readability in comparison to other forums. Looks like you've lost that advantage.

My sister in law has a Yorvic trike. I have ridden it and it seemed to be a quality machine. Apart from the fact that it's a trike, with all that entails, it's strangeness was the fact that it drives only one rear wheel and brakes on the opposite rear wheel. Once you know this and allow for it in your riding style I think it would be OK.

Well exactly, so it comes back to shouty, sensationalist headlines ( based on misinformation and lack of technical knowledge) pandering to a growing popularist need to be seen to be doing something. I am very fortunate in living in a very rural area and rarely see a policeman. However I do go on holiday and I'm starting to feel that I can't go to any city or large town (my daughter lives in Trowbridge where seizures have been reported) without risking having my legal bike taken from me through some misunderstanding on the part of a young copper trying to make his target of nicks for the week.

Can anyone explain to me how that bike actually got up to 92mph? That must be one very special motor and battery combo. Did they actually clock it at 92? Did they ride it at 92? Or are they, once again, relying on an uncalibrated display. That the bike is illegal is not in doubt but it's the shouty headline designed to cause panic and outrage that pisses me off. Surely what's shown is that the maximum speed in the display has not been set, doesn't mean that's what the bike will do. The speedo in my 15cwt van has a 120mph maximum reading but it's never going to achieve that.