Benjahmin

I rode a high torque front hub motor for many years (Ezee) around the steep and often slimy back roads of west Wales. It is true that there are some handling peculiarities with front hubs but, to my mind, I think they are grossly overstated. There will be some scrubbing on steep hills, but you say you don't ride these. This does cause extra tyre wear and I would say I got through 3 front Marathon plus tyres for every one on the back. Low speed manoeuvring can be a bit tricky but using the brake cut out negates this. Also with a KT kit there won't be the sudden jolt of full power (as on my ezee kit). Make sure you use at least one torque arm to prevent the motor axle spinning in the fork drop outs. Here's a link to ne I've used a few times: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145366123136?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&loc_physical_ms=41774&customid=d08f60b87b1919af52300ab04c616a07&gclid=d08f60b87b1919af52300ab04c616a07 Just make sure it is for the correct motor axle size. There can be some scrubbing at start up on loose gravel path surfaces. Actually I used to quite enjoy this and rather miss the fun now I've got a rear hub. Nothing a competent rider can't handle. Moving ones weight forward over the handle bars generally sorts this out. I have no experience of Nexus hubs but the consensus does seem to be that they don't fair well with the extra torque from a mid drive. Apart from that, buy the largest capacity battery you can afford as it will be stressed less than a small one and will last longer. May you discover the silly e bike grin soon !

It's a bit naughty them using brown and blue the 240v live and neutral standard. Perhaps they'd run out of red and black.

My own bike (a conversion) has a controller that gives 20A on maximum setting, giving a maximum 720w @36 v. Yet the motor is rated at 250w and the speed limited to 15.5mph, so legal. I live in very hilly west Wales. I have no complaints.

As it's fully integrated I suspect you may be stuffed, it's a waste, such a shame. If you post pictures of the bike (no idea what IGO is) it's possible someone may see a way through.

Went out yesterday. Downhill from the house I did the same as I did last time. Pedaled all the way down, no brakes. Boy did I suffer for it this time. On the rise the power did not kick in until 7mph. It ramped up from zero so slowly that I was out of the saddle just to keep moving (this is a very heavy bike). It's this inconsistency that drives me nuts. I think I've got the management of it then it throws a curved ball at me. As this is a new controller I think it's fair to assume that it's the motor as per D8veh's theory/explanation. Not knowing in any detail the way motors are constructed, I find it difficult to follow your explanation D8veh. Would it be beneficial to remove the motor side plate and have a gander?

Is this a thing with AKM128's? When I first posted about this nearly all replies said that they'd never had anything like this with KT controllers. So, if it is the motor is there anything I can do? Does it need some lube? Although these motors are quiet, I ride very quiet roads and can hear the motor. I have pondered why I can continue to hear the same sound, from the motor, over the cut off speed when it is no longer driving. Is it worth stripping down the motor?

Finally got out today. There are two down slopes away from my house. Kept pedaling down both, achieved 23-25mph. At the bottom, wouldn't ya know it, the system behaved perfectly, the power kicked in at 15mph and ramped quickly up to max. I thought that the only thing I had done differently was that I didn't use the brake, just kept pedaling. The next hill was a long steep descent into a valley, I had to use the brakes so I didn't pedal at all. Once again, against expectation, it behaved perfectly. Having climbed out of the valley there was a small descent followed by a small rise before going down to the coast. Pedaled down the slope not using brakes. This time on the ascent the power did not kick in until about 8/10mph. As near as I can figure the ramp from 250w up to max (which today seemed to top at 720w) took over 10seconds maybe as much as 12. This 10-12 seconds ramp from 250 to 720 seemed fairly consistent - when it happens, which I still can't reliably trigger or forecast. As the power comes on at an already low speed and start at around 70w the whole ramp up to full power is excruciatingly slow, especially on a steep climb. I am thinking I'll disconnect the brake for the next ride - but I have a dim memory that I've already tried this.

Who knows? Any bike whose motor is labelled as 250w, is speed restricted to 15.5mph and has labels stating voltage and maximum speed + manufacturers name, will be legal. As I live in a very hilly area with rough roads my list would be : Rear hub motor Suspension forks 18-24 gears Hydraulic disc brakes As large a battery as I can afford Marathon plus tyres Personally I would only buy a bike with generic parts that can be bought/changed if faults occur. So no built in battery or locked in programming of electrics. But that's me. I build kits rather than buy somebody else's idea of what I want. Have a look at Woosh bikes. Well known on the forum with a good reputation.

This sounds like the model of controller you have is speed control rather than current control. The cheaper ones apply full power up to the speed limit set by the particular pas level selected. It may be possible to change settings. If you give the make and model number of the controller and display, others will know with some certainty. It would be best to put up photo's of the motor(with any labels), controller and display, then advice can be given. Generally the controller and display have to be bought as a pair to ensure communication.

From 70w up to 750w I'd say around 12 seconds, although it's variable. Operating the brake switch without actually braking is a fairly precise operation. It's possible that the brake switch is accidentally released momentarily over a bump or something. Even such a short blip (over the cutoff) will cause the gremlin. I have pondered fitting a toggle switch to the second brake connection so I can just switch it off downhill and concentrate on potholes and wildflowers as I wouldn't have to be watching the speedo so much.

Just installed the new controller, the settings did transfer. Took it out for a run and it seems to be behaving exactly the same. There's a down slope away from the house, I let it go to 23mph pedaling all the way with no brake applied. When I got to the bottom the power did not come back in until around 7.5mph, it came in at around 70w and ramped up very very slowly to 750w. On a later slope I let it run to 18mph, no brake whilst pedaling. This came back in at 15.5mph, still with a ramp but at a higher start level and a quick ramp up, which I guess is reasonable. On the last slope I let it run to 23mph without brake or pedaling, this cut back in correctly. There is another oddity. Every so often the motor cuts on gear change and comes back in after around 1second, as though I've got a Bafang gear change switch fitted. I haven't. Motor plug is fully inserted and this also happened with the previous controller. So this is two controllers behaving much the same. The common points are the motor and wiring loom, I have no way of knowing if the fault lies there. Is anyone running a 36v AKM128 with a KT T09s that is willing to try my spare to see if it behaves like this for them?

Yup, can confirm that. Any such single button press for 'sport mode' that gives more than legal speed would render the system illegal.

Cheers, I'll let you know when I get to it.

Controller arrived today, so that's 10 days to come from China. Can't get to it at the moment as we have house guests. However, will the current display settings transfer to the new controller, or will I have reset them all?

Hold your horses, don't go spending money yet. Displays and controllers are normally bought as a pair, this guarantee's that they work together. As it does not turn on at all there may be some testing to be done, do you have a digital volt meter? D8veh is the real expert here, I'd listen to him.