Wheazel

Just wanted to write that flipping the magnetic disc fixed the problem! Huge thanks d8veh!

Very intresting! this means I can flip the magnet disc and it might work with some luck. That would be golden if it was the case.

But how likely is this when the pedal sensor has been mounted on the bike since factory and worked up until I changed the controller? Do you mean that the sensors send different signals? I was under the impression that as long as the sensor is setup correct to send its pulse, it should work. I went out and looked at the sensor installation, and the magnetdisc is mounted with the rotational arrows as intended. The sensor itself looks like a miniature proximity sensor used for indication of rotation in the industry. Right side mounted.

I did give up trying to "tune" the stock controller. Ended up buying a new controller and better displayunit. Have replaced everything but cant get the pas to work yet. The thumbthrottle works, and a new pas sensor is on its way. Hopefully that will complete the mods. For those curious, the motor drives weaker and weaker up to 32ish km/h, which is more or less the noload speed. On straights with minor to none human input, the travelspeed is in the high 20s Overall a very nice mod to get rid of the abrupt powercut of the stock controller. My partner is pleased with the change.

I havent gotten rid of the limiter. Ended my search when the lcd displays werent dirt cheap to just test with. I would rather change stuff to get a higher speed was my conclusion. If you can figure out anything more I would be grateful.

Was about to order one of those lcd displays for $17, but the shipping was $31 so i passed. Also have gotten my hands on one extra connector half, the one from the display side. So I can easy just make a plug and play test with a lcd display if I find one that is cheap. Any other source for lcd displays that might work?

Maybe one of these? https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/740-s-lcd5-lcd-meter-for-s-series-controlers-ebike-kit.html Also anyone knows what these connectors are called? Cant find them anywhere else but on this link. http://dream-start.en.made-in-china.com/product/ybCxsGLTCwrp/China-Dr-D08-2-6pin-Waterproof-IP67-Connector-in-LED-Panel-Sanitary-Products-Electrial-Appliance.html The connectors on the ecoride look very similar. The one going to the controlunit on the handlebars is a 6pin threaded with oring seal. @[uSER=4366]d8veh[/uSER] you were right about the white being the negative wire, the yellow and white are split to both rear and front lights.

Where is that lcd display from? Still a plausible solution?

The yellow and white wires that you can see in the last picture i posted, comes from the controlbox and instead of being connected to the main controller, they are routed out of the controller via the sealed wirepasses and then connected to front and rear lights. Lights are ledbased and probably consumes very low current. With this in mind it seems the controllbox actually turns on the lights. Im not at home until tomorrow to doublecheck, but this is how I thought earlier today when looking at the cabling.

Forgot this one.

Better pic of the underside I tried to see what the wires to the control unit does, and the red, white and yellow are obvious. The green wire has something to do with the power/speed modes. If the green wire is removed, the bike travels at max speedlimit regardless of low med or high setting. If the blue wire is removed, the motor wont run at all, regardless of settings on the control box. Wont run with the walkassist button either. Dunno if this helps anything.

Was looking around at bmsbattery due to earlier mentions of that site in the thread, and found a panel that probably is more or less the same as the one thats on the ecoride. Anything useful? https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/549-s-led890-e-bike-led-meter-ebike-kit.html

Also might be worth to mention, that the controlunit on the handlebars has a few settings. When you power the bike up it is in default mode and will use the highest degree of assist until the bike reaches 25km/h regardless of gear and cadence. Then there are 3 settings for assist low medium or high. They seem to alter the max current to the motor depending on setting. (low feels sluggish, medium alittle more alert and so on) But more importantly there is a topspeed tied to the steps. Rougly 15km/h for low 20km/h for med and 25km/h (max) for high. Might be important data for you electronic masters in here. Link to the unit: http://www.ecoprofile.se/thread-2548-Nytt-assistanssystem-fran-EcoRide-ActiveDrive.html

Also registered for this thread as I am experiencing the same pulsing. Its actually my wifes bike, but she wouldnt say no to less pulsing and slightly higher topspeed. Did you guys determine that the stock controller cant be modified? I have a hard time believing that, but I am no electronics engineer myself. I am not very fond of replacing the controller as it is a fully functional unit. I am however capable with the multimeter and soldering iron. Two custom ebike builds under my belt. Including 18650 battery builds and custom welded frames. What is likely causing the limit? Is it likely that I could present some more information (as in taking pictures or doing tests) about the controller that could lead to a breakthrough on how to modify it? I have done reflashing of brushless escs for multicopters before, maybe something similar could be done? I dont have the knowledge of the programming itself tho. Im suspecting there are more ecoride owners that have seen this thread just to find it "incomplete". Best regards from Sweden