harrys

I own a Bafang BBS02 (25A), Tong Sheng TSDZ2 (12A), and Toseven DM02 (12A) mid drive kits. They're all keepers, but if I had to declutter, I'd keep the DM02. It's easy on battery, and is always easy to pedal , even if gearing is slightly off, because of the torque sensor. I'd also keep my 20" folding "toy" bike. Rear hub motor with 25A controller. It's very easy to pack in the car on motor trips, Easy to pedal and comfortable,

You're right about the power. A 48V hubmotor with a 20-25A KT controller is pretty strong, I've seen my LCD3 displays show 800-1000 watts on a hill. But my TSDZ2 has OSF firmware, and mne is adjusted so I ', pedalling with the same effort as my other ebikes at 10-12 mph. Easy pedalling for me. On a hill, I shift down a gear or two, and it's OK. The bike maxes out at 12A, so I'll nver get the same max power. but it's still enough for me.

My DM02 and TSDZ2 are installed on 45 year old steel Raleigh "racers" switched from drop bars to higher ones. Skinny 27 tires. It's like riding in the 1970's again, while in your 70's (age), These little mid motors still like the rider spinning the pedals.

For the best all around biking experience, I like the Toseven DM02. It is a torque sensing unit that delivers easy pedalling comparable to a hub motor. Mine delivers 100-140 watts of power (depends on battery 36V or 48V) in level 1. The motor will dig in and apprach 400 watts on hills. For lowest cost, I like the Tongsheng TSDZ2, also a torque sense unit, but output is only available with hard pedalling, Too hard for me. I hated the stock TSDZ2. Others may disagree. A somewhat complicated third party firmware swap will fix that. With the new firmware, my wife and I really enjoyed our TSDZ2 bikes. The Bafang BBS02B mid drive is fast, quiet and reliable. Highest cost. Cadence sensor, Knocks your socks off. I prefer to install a mid drive over a hubmotor. There's more work to remove the BB (pedals/axle), especially on really old frames. Then again, some of those old frames couldn't handle a hub motor. My flat tire kit is certainly smaller for a hub motor. No big wrenches. In truth, the riding experience depends more on the bike and its tires. Take my best bike, and it would be OK with any motor, but a good torque sense motor kit is most like riding a natural bike,

You can definitely change the current number in the screen, Some of the controllers may have a firmware limit that overrides what you put in with what the factory feels is the maximum.

Broken wires usually result in a completely dead battery with no output, A typical 24V battery runs from 25.2V at max charge down to 18V at minimum charge, and you said you see 18V. One light corresponds to 18V. Recharge is 5 lights, and you were gettingly a few miles at 3 lights. I think you just have a tired out battery, Those lights correlate to the voltage, but as the battery gets older, voltage doesn;t correspond to capacity, WHen new, you might have had half capacity at 3 lights, but now it could be only ten percent, How does it run if the battery is full charged?

Yes, I have the smaller toseven DM02 48V 500W motor. I think it's a better riding experience than the TSDZ2, the other torque sense mid drive. The torque sensor works a lot better, You know it's an ebike immediately because it pedals easy, but it's not overboosted like a cadence bike,

Synchronized traffic lights that allow a 12 mph cyclist to never catch a red light if they stay in sync. Boggles the mind. How does cross traffic get thru. Who cares. It's behind me if I make that green.

Other people here have been doing the DIY drink bottle batteries, which inspired me to copy them. WIth the larger 21700 cells, one can do a 10 cell 36V5AH or a 13 cell 48V5AH, with a possible 160 to 200 watt-hours. I find that serviceable for an hour of riding, and I can carry two easily, I didn't mention the 14 cell 52V5AH, also possible, With the right cells, an occasional 15A peak current is reasonable, but small batteries are for small riding, It's hard to find them that small. commercially made, because consumers won't buy something that small, although I suppost that's what you get in the smallest Swytch,

I've been riding a TSDZ2 with OSF firmware for 4000 miles. This summer, I installed a Toseven DM02 on a similar bike, both older steel Raleigh 10 speeds. The DM02 is the red one. I've been really happy with the TSDZ2/OSF. Could not ride the original TSDZ2. Not enough assist for an old guy. Much better with the OSF. After three years, I reloaded the original firmware to se if my opinions changed, No, it's still too weak for someone who has been riding 20A KT controllers on hubmotors. ,The DM02 comes out of the box with about the same power as my TSDZ2/OSF in level one, and is stronger when pedalled harder, . That's my subjective analysis. Quite happy with the DM02, If you prefer numbers, the DM02 shows the wattage. It shows about 100W with light pedalling in its first assist level. Goes up to 400W with heavier pedalling, In the highest level, I believe 500W is there. It maxes out around 12 amps, so it's not going to go much higher. I think it's a good candidate for a light weight pedelec style bike. Still only half the power of a BBS02, so if you want that kind of boost, look at a DM01,

Yikes. I do have a mounted AKM128 with a dead speedsensor. I am going to clamp the motor in a vise and try turning the 26" wheel. Works for stuck freewheels,

That info might make me happy about my hubmotors. The AKM's are especially hard to unscrew. I am reluctant to grease them, but unlike hubmotors midmotors, water gets inside hubs. DIrt probably does too. However, we're riding the mid motors round and round these days. I am using Mobil SHC 100, a synthetic grease claimed by the manufacturer to be safe for nylon. This time, I will believe what Big Oil claims.

Almost 4000 miles, and the motor gear has never been greased on my wife's bike. She uses throttle in 7th gear to help start. On uphill starts, I hear metal popping. Time to inspect the white gear, 1. This is the vertical bracket for holding the motor to the frame, Many people don't use it because it fits poorly and does little, Mine was like that, and , I had cut a deep notch in the bracket to allow a snug fit. The round fastener was just a few foot pounds past finger tight when I looked today. Only this bracket was holding it snug, Who knows. Maybe the motor was flexing in the frame, but I couldn't get it to move by hand. By the way, you can see one of the hex head 3mm(?) screws for the cover. If I had had any better ones handy, I would have replaced them. With those round heads, the hex sockets strip easy, However, they only hold the cover and only need light torque. 2. The rest is pretty standard. You want to have a JIS Japanese phillips screwdriver for the four motor mounting screws. They're torqued in tight, and anything else will likely round off the heads. 3Here's the motor drive screw. Looks dry, but there is likely a thin layer of lube, I thought I saw slight shiny spots where it would contact the top and bottom of the nylon gear, 3. I was unable to remove the white gear, There might be a circlips on the other end. However, I didn't see any wear, or much grease. 4. Watch out for spacer washers on the white gear shaft, Easy to miss, and not replace on assembly, 5. Liberally applied Mobil red lube, I wondered how it will mix with the traces of old white grease left, I also put some 30Wt oil into the bearings I saw. Put it all back together, Only lost one washer for one of the motor wire screws. I have tiny washers in my parts box, but none that small. I took one off the clip that holds the motor cables. 6. OK. Done.A few thoughts, The case cover has an o-ring for water sealing, The inside of this motor was clean and dry. We had ridden thru 6" of water earlier this year, and no apparent water entry, I was struck by the small size of the motor. Only 66 mm in diameter.

Almost identical to a TSDZ2B as far as mounting. I thought there might have been more clearance for cables between the DM02 motor and BB frame, but that could be my imagination. I did a conversion a few months ago, Your customers should really like how the DM02 freely distributes power in the lower assist modes whereas the TSDZ2B reserves it for the two highest modes.

I used to mount the controllers bare, With enough time, water damage would happen, so I moved them into enclosures. You still need drainage,. I found two dead controllers under water. One had a drain, but it was at the highest point. The other was like a bathtub. Shipping even a 20" hubmotor/wheel to the USA is quite exoensive, I bought the bare motors and spoked them myself, I did not save much money, but that money went toward Sapim spokes and quality rims, instead of to the shipper. I've seen pics here of AKM100's in 20" rims with radial spokes from BMSbattery, May be a strong wheel, but looks like junk, My education/training is in electrical. For mechanical, it's off the streets. I bought a Rivnut kit, but only use it on steel frames. I prefer to use clamps to hold battery cradles. You can bend those bottle cages w/o snapping the aluminum with some heating, That's a vacuum cleaner cannister to the right, not a gas tank,