FrodoBaggins

I really appreciate your help [mention=12956]wheeliepete[/mention] . So what is that residual voltage? I have another battery and there is no voltage flowing through it when switched off. Also weird that it is exactly half. Does that also mean when switched off if the PINS connect then it will create the circuit despite being turned off?

Hey Guys I did a post a while back about trying to switch a battery into another case. I thought I would start a new thread as it has been a while and there might be new people who can help. The original post is here Original Post So I need some help before I blow myself up. I removed the wires and copied the design. Most was just like for like, but I have hit a worrying point. I have added some pictures, but I am finding that when I turn off the battery there is still a voltage passing through it. This voltage is half of the full capacity 26V When the battery switch is on then it shows the 52.6V expected. My guess is that it is something related to the charging part. Or maybe the BMS I had to replace the little charger input component with a new (identical one) . Is it possible to solder onto the wrong connectors? Obviously with the power off there should be no voltage so this is not a good situation. I have tried to put some pictures and video here for advice. So here is what I can see 2 main power wires wired into the main pins (this should be OK) 2 small red wires coming from the switch into the battery A medium thickness red and black battery coming from the battery. The black is soldered directly onto one charger point. The red is joined to a small one on the BMS and then soldered onto the other connecter on the charger. A small red and small black wire coming from the BMS. The black goes into the battery pack. The red connects to the wire as above and subsequently joins the charging port. Clearly something needs sorting. Can anyone help

Hello all So I got the battery case and mount and they are very similar as a few of you have mentioned. I think I can actually swap the whole lot over. Including the charging point and the switch. I will however need to lengthen the wires to the pins. Hopefully all will go well.

I have had this exact same thing. it has only happened once and it was about 40 miles into a ride. It’s never happened again despite putting a few miles on the clock. flicking the switch on the battery and back in again sorted it out. I mess with the firmware settings a lot so maybe I can never actually recreate it. But I will keep you all posted

Here are the photos. To me the cases are identical. But the mounts are different. Ideally I want both to fit the mount that is on the bike. I opened the battery to have a little look, but it seemed more complex than I was expecting. Plus the issue is that I still dont have the relevant case, although I do have a second mount.

I have 2 Ebikes and a 17.5Ah battery, originally I bought a separate mount so that I could swap the battery between bikes. However I since decided to get a second battery that could be used as a spare and allow me to take friends out on it. I searched high and low and eventually found a battery on Ali Express that looks the same. After 3 months of waiting for it to arrive from China, it appears to be a totally different mount to the picture. I am not sending it back as I am just going around in circles. So question? How hard would it be to buy an empty battery case and mount and transfer the cells and BMS into the new case? Both are Hailong, both 17.5Ah and the case is quite similar in size If there is any major risk then its probably not worth doing as both batteries are new and work fine. But if it is easy then it is worth doing Any advice?

Most of the Halfords Carreras seem to route the cables under the bottom bracket. Despite what people say, I find it is always too tight fit But building ebikes makes you artist with cables. Rerouted cables is not that hard, especially that on most old bikes cables need replacing anyway

I need some out of the box advice! (no pun intended) My battery saga continues. I purchased a 17.5Ah 48V Hailong battery. Its great and works well. I have 2 Ebikes, so my bright idea was to buy a smaller one for when friends come over and also double it up as a spare if I do some longer journeys. I looked around and bought what I thought was an identical case and mount from PSWPower, turns out it wasnt quite the same so I sent it back. I researched and found something that looked the same on ALiExpress, allbeit another 17.5Ah battery. It arrived yesterday and guess what! Not the Same I am not sending this back as I cant be bothered and it was a good deal. So does anyone know anyway I could fashion a system that allows the 2 batteries to be interchangable. Maybe some creative method of adapting the mounts or the packs. All I can think of is to find a replacement case and try and move the cells, but that feels like a job that could be quite hard! Any bright ideas or great ones?

I have brought from Greenenergy and PSWPower, both sent from China through Ali Express. It took a while to arrive, but they were pleasant to deal with, GreenEnergy even whatsapp'd me a few times to give me little updates. Not sure about warranty, but seeing as the stuff is pretty much 2/3 of the price, for me it was worth the gamble! I have never paid customs charges on anything I have bought from Ali Express. Maybe I am just lucky!

I do agree with people here. The OSF is definitely better, but you have to tinker a lot with the settings to get it right for how you want to ride. Trying to programme it through the stock display is just rubbish. Just plug the cable back in. But you dont really need a new display. Really once you are happy you can just get on with cycling. A lot of people say it is easy. I would say it is for techie IT types, but non-technical people I can imagine it is very daunting. If you have never heard of the word Java or Git, then you are in new territory for sure! If you have the skills and enjoy messing then go for it, but if you dont then you are not missing out all that much. BTW The reason I did the OSF on mine was to actually reduce the first 2 levels, so I can have more of a workout. I like the Tongsheng because you can ride it like a normal bike, even with it off the weight is not too bad

Hey All This is a great thread, I should have read this before. I bought a TSDZ2 and the plan was also to get a Bafang for my other bike. In the end I bought 2 Tongshengs as they are so cool. As I have 2 bikes it might help people even more (1 whyte hybrid and a Boardman 8 year old mtb) Both have 48V 500W motors A couple of random points that echo most on here: I got the kits from Ali Express, they were about £300 and arrived in under 2 weeks, no stress, no taxes or customs charges. All worked perfect out of the box. The hybrid goes for miles on a 17.5Ah battery. Seriously one charge could do 100 miles if you cycle a bit. As a normal bike I much prefer the Whyte but as an ebike I much prefer the MTB boardman. I feel these are better on a mtb. The fatter tyres, that are annoying on a road are fairly irrelevant once converted More stable and hydraulic brakes are a must for me too. I would love to convert a 29er. I think this would be perfect, if you can find one that fits the bill then go for it. Installation was the same as most. Just re-route your gear cables, its just quicker and easier and actually gives you chance to sort them out if they are worn. Get a new cassette and chain, once again they are not that expensive and just solve a tonne of hassle. I used an old chair leg and seat post to tighten things, massive amount of torque and seems to hold things in place well. I ditched most of the stuff, like the throttle and the lights and brake sensors. It looks like a nice clean build then. But the biggy is the OSF (open source firmware) if you are not IT savvy or technically minded it might be a challenge. But its not total rocket science and quite good fun to do. I have kept the display and VLC5 and just tweak the motor settings. Once you have it right then you dont really need to touch it much. My mate has a £3000 Bosch thing. He previously had more climbing power, and accelaration on big hills, but my battery can outlast his by at least 20 miles if not more. That is on stock Put the OSF on and get it right. See you later mate on the Bosch! The cool thing is that you can switch between legal and not legal. I am not a speed freak and am careful where I set what. But our rides are usually in the middle of nowhere, so just putting the motor assist speed to 20 mph and opening it up to use the full 500W annoys the hell out of him. My battery still outlasts his too! The stock is still on the hybrid and I havent touched it since. Although it is line to be done! I also have a Yose power rear hub, but that is pathetic compared to this. All in all I love these. I can probably say that I have built the first one for £850 and as I re-use the battery the second one has only cost me £300 - £400 as the bike was just gathering dust. I might do some videos and thread on the OSF at some point if anyone is interested.

Hi Tony Have you ever put the open source firmware on? It probably would fix your issue and i guess it mike effect any warranty with Whoosh. But it has totally changed the whole feel of my bike. It could be interesting for you to see how it feels with a bit of time away from it

Hey there so what I did was change the setting to hybrid mode and fiddle. i unticked the street power limit enabled. Or you can change the power settings to higher than 250 if you then fiddle with the ratios on power and torque mode then you can get something that suits. I like level 1 to be a small mount of assist, maybe the equivalent of riding a Normal bike just on the flat, with a little extra ummph, level 2, is what really feels like an Ebik, level 3 a decent power and 4 is pretty much max for “emergencies” but it’s a lot of trips around the block or bike rides with my laptop. these aren’t my settings btw, these are stock and just for demo

In case anyone is following this thread a little update! I made a massive school boy error and had forgotten to change the "street mode power limit" box as it was set to 250W. Once I changed this OMG, massive difference. I am using hybrid mode and just fiddling with the levels. But changing this the power is amazing when you need it. Previously I was wondering what the big fuss was about the OSF. Opinions have now changed! I think it is just a case now of tweaking to find some nice levels. I have 2 bikes, one with stock and now this with OSF. The OSF will be going on both for sure!

Thanks I tried hybrid mode the other day. Most of the settings seem to give a tonne of power at the low settings, even if you set to really low values on both torque and power mode. The higher values dont seem to make a huge difference. I am just wondering if I got something else set that is causing this