Wheel-E

Stop pedalling, the motor will stop. Remember though, that sometimes you may need to pedal forward to change gear when slowing down. Brake switches can still be useful even if you don't have a throttle but not absolutely necessary. Give that you want to use drop bars, probably best to buy the switches that attach in line with the cables or as Dave says, make your own. You could always try without brake switches first and see how you get on.

When you say it sounds spongey, to me it sounds as if you need the brake blocks closer to the rim so you can get more pressure onto the wheel. It's as if the brake blocks are only touching the wheel near the end of their travel. This can happen as the brake blocks wear down or as the cables stretch. How are the brake blocks looking? Is it time to replace them? Have you tried turning the adjuster on the brake lever to tighten things up? Does that make any difference? If that's not enough adjustment you may need to tighten the cable where it meets the brakes at the rear so you can get more more pulling power. No harm in adding fresh cabling too as although it may not be entirely to blame, it will reduce friction in the system.

You could always have a bike shop build one for you.

Suntour Manual Crossfire Manual

They describe it as 180wh.

neopot3864 appears to have a commercial interest in Cytronex with all posts up to now referring/linking to Cytronex.

Can't see any reason why that wouldn't work.

Go for it! It may not look quite as slick as a Cube with integrated battery, but the really great thing about building your own is that it becomes much easier to replace or upgrade parts if they ever go wrong.

Barrie, whose every post mentions the website or Ebay store?

Your pedantry is welcomed. I didn't want to go down that road again of debating legality of Cyclotricity products.

Cyclotricity LCDs have one setting that changes between 250w and maximum power. The upper speed limit is set separately. With a non-Cyclotricity LCD you can reduce the current by up to 50% and can still set the maximum speed just as before. In terms of legality, with a 1000w kit set to 50% current it would be running at 500W. I'm using a 500w kit so the 50% reduction works for me if I need it.

Check out Kunteng's website with their range of displays: http://www.szktdz.com/en/news.php?type=343 Their downloads page contains the manuals for all of their displays, allowing you to compare the available functions. http://www.szktdz.com/en/news.php?type=348

The LCD-5 is a direct swap as long as you find one with the same connector. If you're using a Cyclotricity kit then you'll need Julet/Higo connectors. I bought my LCD-5 from BMS Battery for about £16 with the wrong connector but soldered the old cable into the new LCD. As [uSER=4366]@d8veh[/uSER] has said elsewhere you could easily cut and solder them together with heat shrink but I wanted my pride and joy to be perfect! When I first got the bike I was keen to get the rather cool looking, impressively big LCD-3 with separate buttons right next to my thumbs, showing real-time current (watts) and temperature. But in the end I decided to get the more discreet LCD-5 that would be less likely to attract attention and still showed real time voltage. Both LCD3 and LCD5 will give access to the extra settings that you don't get on the original Cyclotricity display. Non-Cyclotricity LCD1s will probably have more settings available too. I'm guessing they lock it down with proprietary options including the 250/500 or 1000W modes.

https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2018/mar/04/death-by-dangerous-cycling-offence-to-be-introduced-reports?

Absolutely love the utilitarian, understated funky look of this. I think slight changing of colour scheme would make a big difference. The saddle should definitely be black whatever happens. Either the chainring, seat post and saddle should be black, so that you are left with a few chrome accents amongst the stealthy black. Or perhaps a more reasonable suggestion would be to change the saddle to black, with the upright of the handlebars in chrome to match the seatpost. The design has great lines but I think the 'flow' is broken up. Check out the quick Photoshop below for one suggestion. In this scheme, looking across the bike you have the chrome brake discs in a row with the chainring, the black saddle and bars are aligned, as are the seat post and handlebar upright. (The happy side effect is that the handlebars which will inevitable get bashed when folding will be more cosmetically durable.)