Ashley750

I converted my MTB with a Woosh rear hub kit, as I wanted to cycle to work but not have to shower on arrival. My commute is 7 miles / 30 mins, and on arrival a quick spray of deodorant does the job. Nobody in the office has complained yet!!

So, all had been running well for the last 3 months until I came to cycle to work last Thursday, and the display would not switch on. My initial thoughts were an issue with the display unit, the cable or the cradle / controller. Contacted Andy at Woosh, who put a display and cable in the post on Tuesday, arriving Wednesday. Swopping the display made no difference, but changing the cable did, so I am now up and running again. It will be interesting to see what the issue with the cable was, when it arrives back at Woosh. Hit the 500 mile mark, cycling into work this morning .

I have recently fitted the Woosh kit to my old Raleigh, and would recommend it. My thread on the build is at http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/woosh-xf08-cst-rear-hub-kit-on-2001-raleigh-stonefly.31517/ My daily commute is 7.5 miles each way, and on level 5 or 4 assist, I reckon I could probably get about 60 miles from the 13AH battery, although I have been recharging after 45. Only problem, having fitted the Woosh kit, I've carried on spending........ brake & gear cables new gear cassette & chain trekking handle bars panniers cycling jacket, shorts & shoes lock water bottle & cage and now I'm looking at Brooks B17 saddles!!

Can you add me? CV8, Fishponds Road. Cheers.

Yes, it probably would. Either by removing a bit of the handlebar grip, or mounting it inboard of the brake / gearshift mechanism.

I went for the smaller of the 2 options at 13Ah. Certainly looks like it's capable of giving me a good range. Had a play around with the assist levels after cycling back from work. Put the bike in it's lowest gear, so I could spin the pedals for the pedal sensor, without providing any assistance to the motor, just to see how fast it would take me. Level 1 = 6.7mph Level 2 = 10.1mph Level 3 = 12.5mph Level 4 = 13.8mph Level 5 = 16.3mph In general with using level 4 or 5 for commuting, I'm able to keep it on the 42 tooth gear at the front, and on 1 of the 3 smaller gears at the back. Also weighed the bike. It started at 18kg before, and now weights in at 23.7kg, so the kit adds just under 6kg. But with the motor, it doesn't really matter .

No problem, thanks for the info.

I see from the instructions and from pressing the top button, the the KM529 can display TRIP or ODO. However, I cannot find out or discover how to zero the trip distance. How is this done? Thanks.

So I've now cycled to work and back twice, the first time on Sunday afternoon to see how long it would take. Google maps shows cycling the 7.2 miles should take 38 mins, but I was able to do it in 30. On Sunday I kept the assist level on 3, but this morning I put it on 5, and then used 4 for the return journey. Have to say, level 5 is addictive! So after nearly 30 miles, the display is still showing 6 out of 10 bars for the battery, and the battery shows 1 red and 2 (out of the 3) green lights, so should be good for quite a distance .

Sunday afternoon was spent refitting the last few bits, connecting up all the wiring, and then trying to cable tie it up neatly. Really pleased with how it has turned out. Would like to thank Woosh, who have been very quick and helpful in answering all my questions. Excellent Customer Service, even out of hours via this forum. The only thing I need to do to really neaten every thing up is to thing of a way to hide the excess wiring at the bottom of the seat tube. For the time being it is bound up with insulation tape and cable tied in place. Could do with finding a small black plastic box or bit of black tube to hide it all away. Any ideas?

Might be in an odd place, but the throttle has ended up on the LHS, slightly tucked under the display unit. I can reach it with my left thumb, but I'm not sure how much I will actually use it. Next job was fitting the hydraulic brake sensors, Initially, I was not sure on where the magnet needed to be in relation to the sensor, but a question to Woosh quickly provided the answer, and I quote:- 1. plug one brake sensor in. 2. switch on the LCD, you should see error 25 shown. Error 25 means brake sensor is activated, the motor power is cut, 3. bring the magnet closer and closer to the sensor head. When it's close enough, error 25 disappears on the LCD. That mean the motor can receive power again. You now have a good idea how close it is that you have to keep the magnet not to activate the cut out. Bring the sensor and magnet to the lever and find a suitable place to stick the sensor. 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, 3 to find a place where to glue the magnet. Don't glue it yet until you are certain that it will work. Use araldite or similar glue. For test, sellotape the magnet then cable tie over. This worked a treat to find the best place. I ended up drilling a 2.5 mm hole on the lever and screwed the magnet on.

Hi Woosh, Been looking at the best way to fit the hydraulic brake sensors to my brake levers. If I fit the sensor in the position shown in the picture below, can you clarify where I need to mount the small magnet in relation to it? Or due to the gap between the lever and the housing, would I need a larger magnet? If you have any pictures, that would help. Thanks

Unfortunately, that won't work, as the gear shifters are part of the brake lever mechanism. From looking online, something like this might fit better, but it is still fairly large, and would need changing to a HIGO connector to connect to the Woosh kit. Any other ideas out there? I can't be the first with this type of integrated brake and shifter levers.

The Reassembling Has Started Spent some time putting the bike together this evening, having spent yesterday evening removing the decidedly tatty stickers. Wheels are on, as is the battery and the new handlebar. A couple of problems identified tonight. I bought new brake and gear cables, and the outers were cut to same length as the old ones at my LBS, however with the new Trekking bar they are too short! Also, as the gear shifters are integrated into the brake levers, with the up change lever underneath, I cannot find a way to mount the throttle without it being in the way of the shifter or too far away to use. Any thoughts on how I could fit it, or do I just leave it off and use the pedal sensor?

Bit Of A Dish Time to look at putting the rear wheel together. I needed a 3mm spacer to sit behind the 7 speed cassette, and I had to file 2 notches to account for the rivets holding the cassette together. Once the cassette was fitted, it was time to look at the fit of the wheel in the frame. The distance between the dropouts is 137mm, towards the low end of the 135-145mm the wheel is suitable for. Playing around with various thicknesses of washer under the locknuts, I found that 6.2mm of washers under the locknut on the drive side, and no washers on the other side, meant it was easy to fit in the dropouts, and gave me 6.5mm from the CL of the smallest gear to the frame, and therefore enough clearance for the chain. However, this left the CL of the wheel 5mm offset to the non drive side compared to the CL of the frame. I have never really tried adjusting spokes in bike wheels before, but as is always the case nowadays there always a How To video online. Having watched several, I gave it a go, loosening the non-drive side 1/2 a turn first, and then tightening the drive side by the same amount. After doing this 3 times, the rim is pretty much central in the frame, and the brakes look even side to side. There is still a bit of axial and radial runout I can look at improving, what is considered acceptable?